Audiopipe APSM-1500 Protection for a few seconds?

[LBC]

Your dad, most likely, doesn't know squat about car audio, lol. take my advice. ground on the thickest sheet of metal, that is as well-connected to the frame as possible, if you cannot ground to the frame itself. your ground is your link to the battery, which is the source of your current. you want to make it as easy as possible for the current to reach the battery.

There are a couple of things wrong with this post. I'm not trying to rag on you, I just want to help so that in the future when you share information it will be as correct as possible. Sometimes the body is seperated from the frame with electrically insulating spacers. Sometimes to absorb shock etc. Then they will put an aluminum strap around both so that the electrical connection is made. The problem is, this strap is not good enough to carry lots of current. it's there for power windows, interior lights, etc. Not big amps. So there is never any substitution for a frame ground. That is the very least a person can do for their amp.

Next, the source of all current is NOT the battery when the car is on. The source of all current is the alternator. The battery is only there to start the car. That's it's only purpose other than helping to make sure we don't drop below 12v.

 

[KTMrida4life 10+ year member]

Turn the +15 sub level down to 0, and then reset your gains. If you see any bass boost options, turn them OFF.

You can use any standard digital multimeter as long as it can measure AC volts.

 

[Quick 10+ year member]

There are a couple of things wrong with this post. I'm not trying to rag on you, I just want to help so that in the future when you share information it will be as correct as possible. Sometimes the body is seperated from the frame with electrically insulating spacers. Sometimes to absorb shock etc. Then they will put an aluminum strap around both so that the electrical connection is made. The problem is, this strap is not good enough to carry lots of current. it's there for power windows, interior lights, etc. Not big amps. So there is never any substitution for a frame ground. That is the very least a person can do for their amp. Next, the source of all current is NOT the battery when the car is on. The source of all current is the alternator. The battery is only there to start the car. That's it's only purpose other than helping to make sure we don't drop below 12v.

So how would you suggest getting from my trunk the frame? I'm willing to do that but will I have to put a hole in my trunk to feed it through? Thanks for the info and being nice about, I'm here to learn and I'm a complete noob. All information thrown towards me is takin in and consumed //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif Do you think that could very possibly be the reason my amp is going into protect on low notes and at higher power?

 

[Quick 10+ year member]

Turn the +15 sub level down to 0, and then reset your gains. If you see any bass boost options, turn them OFF.
You can use any standard digital multimeter as long as it can measure AC volts.

Alright will do. What about the bass level? It's kind of made for the tweeters but does effect my amp. Should I put it to 0? At 0 it distorts my tweeters earlier than when the bass level is on say -10. All bass boost on the amp are turned off tho.

 

[KTMrida4life 10+ year member]

Alright will do. What about the bass level? It's kind of made for the tweeters but does effect my amp. Should I put it to 0? At 0 it distorts my tweeters earlier than when the bass level is on say -10. All bass boost on the amp are turned off tho.

Your bass boost is affecting your tweeters? You do know the tweeters are the tiny little things that are about 1-2" big right?

If your bass boost is affecting your tweeters, then you have alot more problems lol. Your tweeters should be on a crossover, which is a little thing that directs the correct frequencies to your mid and to your tweeter.

 

[Quick 10+ year member]

Your bass boost is affecting your tweeters? You do know the tweeters are the tiny little things that are about 1-2" big right?
If your bass boost is affecting your tweeters, then you have alot more problems lol. Your tweeters should be on a crossover, which is a little thing that directs the correct frequencies to your mid and to your tweeter.

Ok I take that back, they effect my 6x8 speakers that are in the front and back of my car lol. But more bassboost on it, the more it distorts. Turning it up or down tho does effect the bass on the sub for some reason tho.

 

[KTMrida4life 10+ year member]

Ok I take that back, they effect my 6x8 speakers that are in the front and back of my car lol. But more bassboost on it, the more it distorts. Turning it up or down tho does effect the bass on the sub for some reason tho.

Do you have a kenwood head unit? What is the model #?

I was trying to help my friend with his system a few months back.. I hate all the stupid bass settings on the kenwood HUs, it gets confusing

 

[bgowdy 5,000+ posts]

yea.... i knew i was right about the sub level needing to be set at 0 not +15

 

[slim2fattycake 10+ year member]

get the dmm and set it to ohms and check what ohm load you got it wired to the amp and then set it to voltage dc and put it on the positive and negative of the amp and blast it like it did when it went into protect.

 

[Quick 10+ year member]

Do you have a kenwood head unit? What is the model #?
I was trying to help my friend with his system a few months back.. I hate all the stupid bass settings on the kenwood HUs, it gets confusing

Yeah the bass setting on my old panasonic was much better.

It's a KDC-MP345U, 50x4. Good HU I feel like but stupid bass :\

 

[Quick 10+ year member]

get the dmm and set it to ohms and check what ohm load you got it wired to the amp and then set it to voltage dc and put it on the positive and negative of the amp and blast it like it did when it went into protect.

You check the ohm load by just placing the neg and pos ends of the dmm on the neg and pos terminals for the speaker wire? It should be 2 ohms.

I bet I'm dropping volts is why it protect //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/frown.gif.a3531fa0534503350665a1e957861287.gif

 

[Quick 10+ year member]

Do you guys think my tiny remote wire could be the problem? The opening on the amp was pretty big, like a 12 gauge wire could fit in. My REM wire is like a cm wide lol it's tiny. My dad said he just thought that the remote wire just sent a signal and that's all, and he didn't know why the terminal could be so big. He's not a car audio expert tho. Any ideas?

Also when I use the dmm while bumping hard, what voltage should I NOT be under when hitting hard notes? What's the lowest I should get.

 

[av83 10+ year member]

yea.... i knew i was right about the sub level needing to be set at 0 not +15

I've been looking up info on this all over the place online and getting different results. Some results say you are right, some say I am. My understanding is that it is has nothing to do with the sound processing, and everything to do with the rca voltage. Which means that the only way you can get distortion out of having it on +15 is if you have the gain on the amp up too high when setting it at that level. I wish someone that knows, for certain, would chime in...

 

[av83 10+ year member]

Do you guys think my tiny remote wire could be the problem? The opening on the amp was pretty big, like a 12 gauge wire could fit in. My REM wire is like a cm wide lol it's tiny. My dad said he just thought that the remote wire just sent a signal and that's all, and he didn't know why the terminal could be so big. He's not a car audio expert tho. Any ideas?
Also when I use the dmm while bumping hard, what voltage should I NOT be under when hitting hard notes? What's the lowest I should get.

It's not the remote wire. I'm pretty certain it's a ground problem.

 

[SuperSaeYoung]

Just run the negative wire from the front to the back, ground issue solved.