Audiopipe APCL-15001D on SMD Amp Dyno at 0.5 ohms Dynamic RMS

[Beatin' 10+ year member]

This APCL-15001D put out 1314W @ 1% THD at 14V (@ 1 ohm) for a few seconds then popped the 100A fuse. Sorry to keep you guys waiting, but it's gonna take me a few days to get the full video edited. I have a day job and it's not editing and posting videos for my YT channel

Do 14.4v @1ohm with the lowest THD possible when you get the chance.

It popped the fuse after a few seconds. I bet it does under 1000wrms clean and without popping the fuse.

 

[bigdwiz 10+ year member]

Do 14.4v @1ohm with the lowest THD possible when you get the chance.
It popped the fuse after a few seconds. I bet it does under 1000wrms clean and without popping the fuse.

I can only measure at 1% THD, not less. This is what the Amp Dyno AD-1 measures in the certified mode. It blew the 100A fuse, not because the power supply or amp couldn't provide more power, but it was drawing more than 100A for a few seconds. Sorry, your 1kW assumption is wrong. I tested as close to 13.8V as possible as this is what AP said the amp was rated at (even though it says 16V on the front, they said it's stable to 16V, yet rated at 13.8V).

 

[Beatin' 10+ year member]

It blew the 100A fuse, not because the power supply or amp couldn't provide more power, but it was drawing more than 100A for a few seconds

so it can't actually do 1314wrms at 1ohm at 1%THD......because it will blow the fuse. So what can it do and not blow the fuse?

A thousand watts, perhaps? //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/wink.gif.608e3ea05f1a9f98611af0861652f8fb.gif

 

[Jes 42 10+ year member]

Can see the Audiopipe box now-2800+ watts.lol

 

[bigdwiz 10+ year member]

so it can't actually do 1314wrms at 1ohm at 1%THD......because it will blow the fuse. So what can it do and not blow the fuse?
A thousand watts' date=' perhaps? //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/wink.gif.608e3ea05f1a9f98611af0861652f8fb.gif[/quote']

Nope, it did 1314W RMS at 1 ohm 1% THD...the Amp Dyno runs a continuous sine wave tone for 10 seconds (in certified and uncertified modes), a truly brutal test on an amp. The 100A fuse can handle more than 100A, but only for a few seconds before it blows. The fuse has nothing to do with the power supply and output devices other than to protect them. I've been giving the green light to use a larger fuse, but I don't expect it will do more than 1314W, just won't pop the fuse. Those looking for "certified" or 1% THD measurements on this amp at 1 ohm, it's right around 1300W and does right at 1500W at clipping (the uncertified mode) at 14V

The dynamic RMS power test I show in the video is not a "Max" rating, yet an RMS measurement using burst tones of 40Hz

 

[akadj 10+ year member]

so it can't actually do 1314wrms at 1ohm at 1%THD......because it will blow the fuse. So what can it do and not blow the fuse?
A thousand watts' date=' perhaps? //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/wink.gif.608e3ea05f1a9f98611af0861652f8fb.gif[/quote']

Dude you just dont stop with the whole fuse thing?

Do you know what happens to 100 amp fuse run on 8 gauge power rather then 0 gauge.. It pops.. Not because the amp was putting out to much power either lol! It adds resistance.

The fuse wasn't intended to regulate how much power your amp is producing, its main objective was to protect the car from catching fire or damaging your equipment due to a short, which is why biggest thing in fuse placement is to install it as close to the battery as possible. Yes they have to figure out a maximum value of amps drawn, so a sun down z3500 isn't popping fuses daily because its running the same fuse as the Audiopipe 1500., I don't run fuses in my METRO but its strictly SPL competition vehicle

Just because an amp calls for a 150 amp fuse doesn't mean that's all that can go in there.. Its just like when I see people running their sundown amp at 0.8 ohms or 0.5 ohms. Its not recommended and it also going to draw more current and need a larger fuse .. Who knows maybe audiopipe put 100 amp fuses in there because they were cheaper.. That wouldn't surprise me!!

 

[av83 10+ year member]

This APCL-15001D put out 1314W @ 1% THD at 14V (@ 1 ohm) for a few seconds then popped the 100A fuse. Sorry to keep you guys waiting, but it's gonna take me a few days to get the full video edited. I have a day job and it's not editing and posting videos for my YT channel

How would you compare it to the amp you tested here?

http://www.caraudio.com/forums/amplifiers/557943-audiopipe-ap-15001d-bench-tested-rms-power-output.html

 

[akadj 10+ year member]

When I seen him do that video I remember him using a continuous sine wave and with a clean signal on an oscilloscope.

I would guess that it.was similar to a certified 1 ohm test

 

[Beatin' 10+ year member]

Dude you just dont stop with the whole fuse thing?
Do you know what happens to 100 amp fuse run on 8 gauge power rather then 0 gauge.. It pops.. Not because the amp was putting out to much power either lol! It adds resistance.

The fuse wasn't intended to regulate how much power your amp is producing, its main objective was to protect the car from catching fire or damaging your equipment due to a short, which is why biggest thing in fuse placement is to install it as close to the battery as possible. Yes they have to figure out a maximum value of amps drawn, so a sun down z3500 isn't popping fuses daily because its running the same fuse as the Audiopipe 1500., I don't run fuses in my METRO but its strictly SPL competition vehicle

Just because an amp calls for a 150 amp fuse doesn't mean that's all that can go in there.. Its just like when I see people running their sundown amp at 0.8 ohms or 0.5 ohms. Its not recommended and it also going to draw more current and need a larger fuse .. Who knows maybe audiopipe put 100 amp fuses in there because they were cheaper.. That wouldn't surprise me!!

the fuse topic matters. There's no reason for a manufacturer to recommend a higher amperage fuse than what the amp can handle, in order to protect the car.

There's no reason to put a 500A fuse on a 300watt amp. It's beyond stupid, and so is under-fusing. So the manufacturer always recommends an inline fuse or implements a set of fuses on the amp that limits the draw at the amps lowest operational resistance, which is usually 1 or 2 ohms.

Like I demonstrated before, assuming electrical system is good, simple math can get you close to what an amp can actually do potentially UNDER 1% THD. I have not learned yet how to incorporate THD into the equation. The numbers I come up with do not include exact THD figures.

Take for example my black ice 1800.1d, rated 1800wrms at 1 ohm at 1%THD. The math comes to be 1612wrms. So it seems like the manufacturer pushes the amp till 1% distortion to put 1800watts on the box.

go figure.........

 

[av83 10+ year member]

Please stop beatin. ...you're on the right track, but if several people are letting you know that you're wrong and to quit....

 

[bigdwiz 10+ year member]

When I seen him do that video I remember him using a continuous sine wave and with a clean signal on an oscilloscope.
I would guess that it.was similar to a certified 1 ohm test

Yes, the previous test is indicative of the certified mode on the AD-1 (sine wave 40Hz test to 1% THD). This shows the APCL-15001D is more powerful than the AP-15001D

 

[T3mpest 10+ year member]

the fuse topic matters. There's no reason for a manufacturer to recommend a higher amperage fuse than what the amp can handle' date=' in order to protect the car.
There's no reason to put a 500A fuse on a 300watt amp. It's beyond stupid, and so is under-fusing. So the manufacturer always recommends an inline fuse or implements a set of fuses on the amp that limits the draw at the amps lowest operational resistance, which is usually 1 or 2 ohms.

Like I demonstrated before, assuming electrical system is good, simple math can get you close to what an amp can actually do potentially UNDER 1% THD. I have not learned yet how to incorporate THD into the equation. The numbers I come up with do not include exact THD figures.

Take for example my black ice 1800.1d, rated 1800wrms at 1 ohm at 1%THD. The math comes to be 1612wrms. So it seems like the manufacturer pushes the amp till 1% distortion to put 1800watts on the box.

go figure.........[/quote']

3 words.. Zed Audio Minotaur. Figure it out and you'll see why fusing isn't as valuable as your making it out to be.

 

[globalminds_ent 10+ year member]

I don't see the **** problem u people are lookin for any reason to talk down on the amp because it's audiopipe just get over it. And admit u were wrong about it

 

[infamous_e46 5,000+ posts]

dat ***** music doe

 

---------- Post added at 01:20 PM ---------- Previous post was at 01:20 PM ----------

 

test my apk 3500d

 

[Beatin' 10+ year member]

3 words.. Zed Audio Minotaur. Figure it out and you'll see why fusing isn't as valuable as your making it out to be.

lets put it on the dyno and see what happens.

at 2 ohms a 60A maximum fuse is recommended. That's 840watts gross draw at 14v.

How the hell can it do 1300 at 2ohms.