Attn: All PG RSD owners.

[tcguy85 10+ year member]

It's active, but only the sub woofer and component set (as a whole) are being handled actively.
The discrete driver and tweeter interchange is still being run passively for the time being.

It's not 100% active, but there is still active components. The only thing keeping it from being 100% active is me running my tweeters off a dedicated amp INSTEAD of the included crossovers.

Understand now?

yea, so its still passive. the sub will always be active in any install. you'll never see a sub in a car with a passive crossover, so the sub will always be controlled actively. but your front stage is still passive.

 

[ronjon228 10+ year member]

I think you're confused about the difference between an active and passive crossover. Either that or confused by what I'm actually doing.

An active crossover has adjustable cutoffs (Hz) and adjustable slopes (orders). They can be adjusted on the fly. Passive crossovers are a set piece of equipment that operate at a set parameter.

My output from the PC IS active. Therefore, technically I'm running an active system. I have complete control (with my mouse or touchscreen) over my entire signal processor. I can adjust my crossovers, slopes, EQ, everything @ the touchscreen interface.

The only part of my system that is currently passive is the crossover for the component set. Granted most people run "active" by using an amp's on board crossovers or settings, but that's not really giving you any where near the adjust ability of a true active setup.

Right now I'm not letting my amplifier(s) do any processing work. My PC does all that.

In general any modifications to the sound of a setup AFTER or @ amplification are considered passive. All my of processing is pre-amp side, making it an active system.

The only reason I'm using my component PASSIVE crossovers is because I haven't yet ran my tweeters to an amp. Once I do, I'll have a 100% active system. Right now, I'm only running 2 out of 3 speaker sets active (the subs and drivers are actively tuned, and the tweets are passively tuned).

I don't know how I can make things any clearer. I AM running the drivers active, and the tweeters passive.

In conclusions, all I'm saying is that it IS possible to have active AND passive components in an audio system. It doesn't have to be one way or another.

 

[tcguy85 10+ year member]

i think you are mis-understanding what it means to run active.

-you are selecting the crossover point and slope for your sub, just like everybody else who has a sub can do.

-you are selecting the crossover point and slope for the high pass on the mids, just like anybody can do who either has a HU that has a high pass or an amp that has a high pass. so nothing really special there.

so those 2 things ARE active..... but not really what active tends to mean in car audio, and nothing different than most people on here.

when you say you have an active setup it really means that you have no passives anywhere. so you are "technically" running things both passive and active. get what i'm saying?

but you aren't running your component speakers active. you are running them just like anybody else.

 

[Bipolar 10+ year member]

Go with the RSD's and drop the rear fill all together. Trust me, once it's gone, you'll never miss it. The RSD's will be more than enough to get the music loud and clear.

Thanks but no thanks.. I have to have rear fill..I actually want as close to surround sound as I can get.

 

[tcguy85 10+ year member]

Thanks but no thanks.. I have to have rear fill..I actually want as close to surround sound as I can get.

have fun with that.

 

[ronjon228 10+ year member]

i think you are mis-understanding what it means to run active.
-you are selecting the crossover point and slope for your sub, just like everybody else who has a sub can do.

I'm not selecting any set crossover or slope. It's all 100% adjustable pre-amp side, much different than just using a crossover on an amp.

-you are selecting the crossover point and slope for the high pass on the mids, just like anybody can do who either has a HU that has a high pass or an amp that has a high pass. so nothing really special there.

The DSP I used is infinitely more advanced than a head unit or amp crossover. If you think that having a full range DSP with 150 different plug-ins to do anything possibly conceivable to the source sound "nothing special", I would like to see what you consider special. Besides that, I never claimed it to be special, only active tuning.

so those 2 things ARE active..... but not really what active tends to mean in car audio, and nothing different than most people on here.
when you say you have an active setup it really means that you have no passives anywhere. so you are "technically" running things both passive and active. get what i'm saying?

but you aren't running your component speakers active. you are running them just like anybody else.

I never at any point claimed to have a fully active system. That's what caused the confusion in the first place. You completely agreed with me there saying "running things both passive and active". That's exactly what I said from the beginning. And no, I'm not running my component speakers "just like anybody else". I'm controlling the source sound INTO the component set with an active DSP (time alignment, HP crossover, attenuation). Therefore, the RSD drivers are both actively tuned by the DSP and the passive crossover in combination.

I really don't understand what you're trying to argue. There is completely passive systems, completely active systems, and a multitude of systems using a combination of the two. Just because some one says they have active tuning doesn't mean their entire system is active. Now, if I had claimed to be running FULL active, yes, I would be mislead. I'm just saying that a vast majority of my tuning is done active, EXCEPT the passive crossovers for the component set. Yes, once I get the tweeters amped and remove the passive crossovers, the entire system will be active.

 

[ronjon228 10+ year member]

Thanks but no thanks.. I have to have rear fill..I actually want as close to surround sound as I can get.

have fun with that.

What he said. //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/biggrin.gif.d71a5d36fcbab170f2364c9f2e3946cb.gif

 

[tcguy85 10+ year member]

I'm not selecting any set crossover or slope. It's all 100% adjustable pre-amp side, much different than just using a crossover on an amp.


The DSP I used is infinitely more advanced than a head unit or amp crossover. If you think that having a full range DSP with 150 different plug-ins to do anything possibly conceivable to the source sound "nothing special", I would like to see what you consider special. Besides that, I never claimed it to be special, only active tuning.

I never at any point claimed to have a fully active system. That's what caused the confusion in the first place. You completely agreed with me there saying "running things both passive and active". That's exactly what I said from the beginning. And no, I'm not running my component speakers "just like anybody else". I'm controlling the source sound INTO the component set with an active DSP (time alignment, HP crossover, attenuation). Therefore, the RSD drivers are both actively tuned by the DSP and the passive crossover in combination.

I really don't understand what you're trying to argue. There is completely passive systems, completely active systems, and a multitude of systems using a combination of the two. Just because some one says they have active tuning doesn't mean their entire system is active. Now, if I had claimed to be running FULL active, yes, I would be mislead. I'm just saying that a vast majority of my tuning is done active, EXCEPT the passive crossovers for the component set. Yes, once I get the tweeters amped and remove the passive crossovers, the entire system will be active.

wasn't trying to argue anything. it's all cool. //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/biggrin.gif.d71a5d36fcbab170f2364c9f2e3946cb.gif

the part i bolded i am doing the same, i have all those features plus i am controlling all those on my tweeters and mids seperately. i can adjust high pass on the tweets and i have T/A on the tweets. the only thing i can see your carpc maybe having over my HU is maybe more of an EQ and maybe more crossover points.

not trying to cause trouble though.//content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif

 

[ronjon228 10+ year member]

I know, no trouble at all my friend.

And I totally agree that almost anything I'm using software to do, can be done with various hardware. I just went with the PC as a source unit for unlimited music space (8000+ mp3's) and customization (different front ends, DSP control, etc). It's just easier for me on the PC screen because I'm a computer nerd first, audiophile second. //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/biggrin.gif.d71a5d36fcbab170f2364c9f2e3946cb.gif

I too want to do what you're doing with the tweets and mids using their own dedicated T/A and attenuation, etc. in the near future.

However, right now I'm going to worry about my sub to midrange driver balance. Once I get that all squared away I'll move on to running full active and getting the tweeter positions and other active DSP settings all tuned nicely.

I can't do the entire system active just yet. Not enough experience with all this DSP, active crossovers and the like to do the whole ball game just yet.

Attached is an example of the DSP I'm using. Each plugin is represented by a window inside the DSP. Then, each plugin (as you can see) has input and output points. You start with a source sound, and then work your way over to your outputs, which can also be completely rerouted if need be. It's an AMAZING piece of software really. You can do anything from digital music recorded, to studio quality audio production, to simple MP3 music play back.

Each one of those windows inside the DSP can be clicked on, and all the options are loaded up for that plugin, allowing you to change them. The best part is, you can do everything on the fly. Including bypassing or disabling a plugin or entire channel completely. It's nice if you want to see how your setup will sound with a plugin on/off in real time to see how it affects everything.

 

[tcguy85 10+ year member]

I know, no trouble at all my friend.
And I totally agree that almost anything I'm using software to do, can be done with various hardware. I just went with the PC as a source unit for unlimited music space (8000+ mp3's) and customization (different front ends, DSP control, etc). It's just easier for me on the PC screen because I'm a computer nerd first, audiophile second. //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/biggrin.gif.d71a5d36fcbab170f2364c9f2e3946cb.gif

I too want to do what you're doing with the tweets and mids using their own dedicated T/A and attenuation, etc. in the near future.

However, right now I'm going to worry about my sub to midrange driver balance. Once I get that all squared away I'll move on to running full active and getting the tweeter positions and other active DSP settings all tuned nicely.

I can't do the entire system active just yet. Not enough experience with all this DSP, active crossovers and the like to do the whole ball game just yet.

Here's an example of the DSP I'm using. Each plugin is represented by a window inside the DSP. Then, each plugin (as you can see) has input and output points. You start with a source sound, and then work your way over to your outputs, which can also be completely rerouted if need be. It's an AMAZING piece of software really. You can do anything from digital music recorded, to studio quality audio production, to simple MP3 music play back.

cool! //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif sounds fun.

how much did the whole thing run ya?

any pics of the install, and install process? sounds neat.

 

[ronjon228 10+ year member]

Yea, there is a post here on caraudio about it. Check my "threads started by" and you'll see it. It's in general discussion, 2nd or 3rd page.

The whole setup, I couldn't even tell you how much. Not much considering the processing power and SQL I've got. I'm a big budget shopper and do all the work myself with help from friends. I'd say most likely 500 or so for the whole sha-bang.

I'm still working on the install. All the amp racks, computer case, LCD, everything is installed and secured. I just don't have the finishing touches done. The amp racks and computer case are still bare MDF, and the front "modified" door mounts (were 5.25", now 6.5") are still not molded. However, structurally and sound wise, it's basically 100% done. I just don't want to put any more money into fabrication in this old car, it's got 170K miles on it and will most likely be retired in the near future.

Once I get a new ride I'll properly mold in the LCD, build a nice carpeted amp rack and computer case, and make sure it has 6.5" speakers stock so I can replace those without any fabrication.

 

[tcguy85 10+ year member]

cool!

 

[thehardknoxlife 10+ year member]

cool! //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif sounds fun.
how much did the whole thing run ya?

any pics of the install, and install process? sounds neat.

Lots of car PC's on mp3car.com.

 

[ronjon228 10+ year member]

Lots of car PC's on mp3car.com.

I know, I'm a regular over there. //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif

 

[Bipolar 10+ year member]

Ha, you guys are funny, I think you misunderstood what I was trying to say or maybe I said it wrong... I know I'm not going to have frikin surround sound, what I was trying to say is I cant stand just to have front or rear fill, I have to have both to be happy, As in being surrounded by the sound not like having Dolby Pro Logic 7.0 or anything...