sacsking916
5,000+ posts
stayin high an loud
What exactly do you want to upgrade? Amp, subs, both?
- Thread Starter
- #3
Both. But like I said, I'm already having minor 'power' problems (I guess you could call them that?) so I'm not sure what to do to make the issues cease to exist and also upgrade slightly. Hmm. //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/confused.gif.e820e0216602db4765798ac39d28caa9.gif
Upgrade your wiring.
Add 4 gauge or larger wires to the following...
1. Alternator positive to battery positive
2. Engine ground to body
3. Body ground to battery
Then run a 4 gauge wire to your Amp and a 4 gauge ground from the Amp to the body.
I too have a compact car, which is running 2 MTX 10's off a 1000w/500w RMS Alpine Amp with ZERO dimming. I have 4 gauge wires throughout and an AGM battery, but had no dimming with a regular battery either. You have a 95 amp alternator, so you should not have to worry about a bigger alternator yet. (mine is only 80)
Add 4 gauge or larger wires to the following...
1. Alternator positive to battery positive
2. Engine ground to body
3. Body ground to battery
Then run a 4 gauge wire to your Amp and a 4 gauge ground from the Amp to the body.
I too have a compact car, which is running 2 MTX 10's off a 1000w/500w RMS Alpine Amp with ZERO dimming. I have 4 gauge wires throughout and an AGM battery, but had no dimming with a regular battery either. You have a 95 amp alternator, so you should not have to worry about a bigger alternator yet. (mine is only 80)
- Thread Starter
- #5
Every single wire is already 4 gauge.
Factory charging system wires or power wires for just the stereo or both?
- Thread Starter
- #7
Not entirely sure. I had it professionally installed and the wiring kit I supplied to them that I got from SonicElectronix was all 4-gauge.
dirtyunclerandy
10+ year member
CarAudio.com Elite
He is talking about adding additional wiring to your car. There is a sticky in the wiring and electrical section (think that's where it is) called the big three. Find it and read it. Definitely helpful.
Crutchfield and Sonicelectronix both say your amp is only 250 RMS... if you are having dimming with that low of an amp, your gains are too high causing clipping or you have very small gauge charging wires under the hood.
If you supplied a typical pre-packaged wiring kit, then it almost certainly did not have the necessary stuff to do the "Big 3"
If the only new large wire under your hood is the amp power wire, then you do not have the Big 3 done.
Most small vehicles have the minimum required gauge of wire required to safely run the factory accessories and that's it. Any additional significant power draws will require upgrade or additions to the factory wiring.
Likely your alternator wire is 8 gauge, your chassis ground wires are likely 8 or 10 gauge, and your engine to body is likely 6 or 8 gauge.
If for example your body ground wires were like mine were from factory (two 10 gauge wires) the even a 0 gauge amp power wire would have dimming issues until the "weak link" is replaced.
This is my big 3...
If you supplied a typical pre-packaged wiring kit, then it almost certainly did not have the necessary stuff to do the "Big 3"
If the only new large wire under your hood is the amp power wire, then you do not have the Big 3 done.
Most small vehicles have the minimum required gauge of wire required to safely run the factory accessories and that's it. Any additional significant power draws will require upgrade or additions to the factory wiring.
Likely your alternator wire is 8 gauge, your chassis ground wires are likely 8 or 10 gauge, and your engine to body is likely 6 or 8 gauge.
If for example your body ground wires were like mine were from factory (two 10 gauge wires) the even a 0 gauge amp power wire would have dimming issues until the "weak link" is replaced.
This is my big 3...
- Thread Starter
- #10
Oh ok. Yea I definitely need to do the "Big 3" then. So basically since I don't have the "Big 3" done, I'll still probably be able to upgrade slightly with my stock alternator and battery just fine. That's good to know. I wish I didn't get it professionally done because now I don't know how to do anything when it comes to the wiring.
Also, would buying a bigger amp significantly increase the quality of bass from my current subs? I was thinking about upgrading slightly but want to stay around the 900-1000 watt range so I don't draw too much power from my factory battery/alternator.
Was looking at something along the lines of http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_21944_Kicker-DC122-10DC122.html
Also, would buying a bigger amp significantly increase the quality of bass from my current subs? I was thinking about upgrading slightly but want to stay around the 900-1000 watt range so I don't draw too much power from my factory battery/alternator.
Was looking at something along the lines of http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_21944_Kicker-DC122-10DC122.html
- Thread Starter
- #11
Bump
This morning, I replied with a nice explanation and suggestion of what amp to use, but the post went to Moderator approval and has not shown up yet... I will check with a mod and get it approved.
- Thread Starter
- #13
Any news on this?
I'll try to recreate what I posted this morning...
Your amp and factory wires are the weak points of your current system. Your MTX sub box is pre-wired and the subs are 8 ohms each, capable of handling 200W RMS each. They are wired in parallel to give a 4 ohm final load. This means that the subs need an amp capable of ~400W RMS at 4 ohms to run at their full potential. Your current amp provides just over half that much. (250W RMS)
If you decide to use the Kickers you linked to, you will need an amp that will power them. (Unless you know the specs or model number of the current amp to see if it is compatible) I do not know all the specs on your current amp, but there are much better and more efficient amps than that one.
The Kickers are also pre-wired, and that's good. They are 4 ohm each wired for a 2 ohm final load. That is good. The kickers handle 150W RMS each so they need an amp capable of 300W RMS at 2 ohms to run at their full potential. (There is also a 4 ohm final load model too, be sure to get the right one.)
IF your MTX subs are in good condition, I would use them and buy a different amp and do the big 3 wiring upgrade.
Here is an example of an amp for the MTX that would run them at full power... (It's a 2 channel, and needs to be bridged to make 400W at 4 ohms)
http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_22698_Hifonics-HFi100.2-HFi-100.2.html
If you choose the Kickers, there is a Kicker amp that is a perfect match...
http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_31876_Kicker-ZX300.1-11ZX300.1.html
The MTX subs are capable of more power, but with the Kickers, being newer, larger, and likely better built, are likely going to preform about the same, so the choice is yours...
As far as the wiring read up on the big 3 watch videos on youtube, and look under your hood for the appropriate wires and add bigger wires on top of them. There are many YouTube videos on how to connect ends to wires and there are videos about how to solder. Soldering is not that difficult, just practice on some scrap pieces first.
Here is a video using 0 gauge, you only need 4 gauge.
Your amp and factory wires are the weak points of your current system. Your MTX sub box is pre-wired and the subs are 8 ohms each, capable of handling 200W RMS each. They are wired in parallel to give a 4 ohm final load. This means that the subs need an amp capable of ~400W RMS at 4 ohms to run at their full potential. Your current amp provides just over half that much. (250W RMS)
If you decide to use the Kickers you linked to, you will need an amp that will power them. (Unless you know the specs or model number of the current amp to see if it is compatible) I do not know all the specs on your current amp, but there are much better and more efficient amps than that one.
The Kickers are also pre-wired, and that's good. They are 4 ohm each wired for a 2 ohm final load. That is good. The kickers handle 150W RMS each so they need an amp capable of 300W RMS at 2 ohms to run at their full potential. (There is also a 4 ohm final load model too, be sure to get the right one.)
IF your MTX subs are in good condition, I would use them and buy a different amp and do the big 3 wiring upgrade.
Here is an example of an amp for the MTX that would run them at full power... (It's a 2 channel, and needs to be bridged to make 400W at 4 ohms)
http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_22698_Hifonics-HFi100.2-HFi-100.2.html
If you choose the Kickers, there is a Kicker amp that is a perfect match...
http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_31876_Kicker-ZX300.1-11ZX300.1.html
The MTX subs are capable of more power, but with the Kickers, being newer, larger, and likely better built, are likely going to preform about the same, so the choice is yours...
As far as the wiring read up on the big 3 watch videos on youtube, and look under your hood for the appropriate wires and add bigger wires on top of them. There are many YouTube videos on how to connect ends to wires and there are videos about how to solder. Soldering is not that difficult, just practice on some scrap pieces first.
Here is a video using 0 gauge, you only need 4 gauge.
- Thread Starter
- #15
Wow man thanks a lot, this is super helpful K_Watson. So do you think that upgrading the amp and doing the big 3 would improve the quality of the bass and help with the electrical problems? Or would something like those Kickers I linked earlier be significantly better than the MTX Magnums? (Granted I get a better amp to match them, like the Kicker one).
If so, how much better would the Kickers be? Significantly?
Thanks in advance.
If so, how much better would the Kickers be? Significantly?
Thanks in advance.
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