Are my JL 10w7's hooked up right, seem like they don't hit that hard? Help?

[gl0ck 10+ year member]

Remove cap, add second batt, then switch to 0 awg.

Ti1000 doesnt seem like enough to really get to w7s going to me.

Good luck man

 

[cotjones 10+ year member]

Remove cap, add second batt, then switch to 0 awg. Ti1000 doesnt seem like enough to really get to w7s going to me.

Good luck man

yea these amps DO need 1/0 gauge wire too, but a 10w7 does awsome on 500-600... this amp can do it but without headroom

if you can find a place for the second Batt, it is a VERY good idea

 

[bonesninja 5,000+ posts]

Because it originally had a 60 amp fuse in it, and the idiot at the Road Shop should be slapped for putting an 80 amp fuse in there in hopes to fix the problem.
While your equation is correct, one you aren't figuring in efficiency, and two it takes more than 60 amps of current draw to blow a 60 amp fuse, it depends on what type of fuse it is.

To the OP, you can check the speaker wire running to the amp with a DMM and see what it says, or you can just check the wiring your self and what they did with it.

ooops i missed the part about the 60a fuse originally...thought it had 80.

About the amp...i know the fuse can take quite a bit more than rated, but i was just giving a general equation because chances are, he's not riding around with his volume maxed out.

I noticed on this board people often buy say a 1000wrms amp and then ask "can my subs handle 1000 watts all day" Of course, no one but those little dodge neon drivin' rattle kids turn their system up all the way and since the output of the amp is proportionate to the volume level....well you get the point.

To OP: take a DMM, unhook your speaker wire from the amp, assuming the subs are wired together and there is one set of leads running to the amp, put your meter on the little ohm symbol, run one wire to one lead, the other wire to the other lead and see what it reads. If its high like 5-6 then the subs are wired wrong...its its down around 1-2 then it is wired correctly.

 

[bonesninja 5,000+ posts]

my car's stock elec wouldn't even keep a 1000/1 powered on... (with a 25 farad cap)

shut the **** up

 

[xtremebassjunky 10+ year member]

I am not reading through everything but if the professional built the box to jl spec it isn't getting full potential out of the subs...

see about getting a 3" slot port and it helps alot...

my friend/teammate ran some jl equipment in the past and he knows the ins and outs of the box designs for the dub7's...

 

[cotjones 10+ year member]

shut the **** up

umm ok... not!

 

[Kold_Killa 10+ year member]

Posted on User Review on onlinecarstereo.com:

DCap From Jerzy

"This amp is well worth it, especially at this greta price, here! I recently got my 2 - JL 10W7's hooked up to one of these t10001BD amps and the thing is just banging. The bass doesn't stop pounding. I putt my cell fone on the roof of my ford explorer and it literally bounced inches off my roof. Mirrors don't stop shaking. This set up makes my head rattle, i also amped my factory speakers to a alpine digital f250 amp. Love the whole setup, to top it off it was installed for a little over $200 for everything at circuit city, but thats if you have all the accessories needed, in which i had the stinger 4 gauge wiring kit and 1.2 cap that was about 300 for the whole kit."

Seems like it does well enough???? :/

 

[cotjones 10+ year member]

Posted on User Review on onlinecarstereo.com:
DCap From Jerzy

"This amp is well worth it, especially at this greta price, here! I recently got my 2 - JL 10W7's hooked up to one of these t10001BD amps and the thing is just banging. The bass doesn't stop pounding. I putt my cell fone on the roof of my ford explorer and it literally bounced inches off my roof. Mirrors don't stop shaking. This set up makes my head rattle, i also amped my factory speakers to a alpine digital f250 amp. Love the whole setup, to top it off it was installed for a little over $200 for everything at circuit city, but thats if you have all the accessories needed, in which i had the stinger 4 gauge wiring kit and 1.2 cap that was about 300 for the whole kit."

Seems like it does well enough???? :/

he liked his factory speakers amped... i rest my case

 

[DanCap 10+ year member]

he liked his factory speakers amped... i rest my case

That was the first day, i never had bass like that before. But then i herd the other guys and it was as loud as mine if not louder with half the equipment i had (my 2 w7's to his 1 with an amp half the output).

For the factory speakers, i got them amped, but i have alpine door speakers that im going to install this weekend, i just wanted them amped so all i would have to do is swap out the factory speakers for these Alpine ones.

Today i am going to switch out to 0 gauge wiring, and get an optima battery, also going to check the ohm it is at.

I also found out there is a 100a fuse mounted to a digital gauge under the hood, near the battery, and the 60a fuses that blew are mounted near the cap next to the box.

Any other suggestions, let me know.

Dan

 

[DanCap 10+ year member]

If none of that helps, even though im sure i will hear some kind of difference, could it be my head unit, i herd the jensens are shit, and the volume can only go up half way before it cuts out?

Anyways i was driving at night nd my ligts do dim a little when the bass drops.

 

[xtremebassjunky 10+ year member]

be sure to do the big 3.

I hate everything jensen in cars.

 

[CesF2006 10+ year member]

Id check the resistance of the subs, do the big three, run 1/0 agw, maybe a 2nd battery, not 100% needed but it would help, but first i would swap out the jensen for something with higher voltage preouts, the jensen screens have .5 volt preouts, when you can easily find a pioneer, alpine, or eclipse with 4 to 8 volt preouts, justg my opinion

 

[jluv 10+ year member]

Good luck with your setup, dude. I have a non-related question for you. What year is your Explorer? I see in your avatar that you have bucket seats in the back instead of a bench. BADASS!!! Do you have a rear center console as well? Do you have any pictures of the rear seats? I have never seen one like that. My '04 has a 60/40 bench, but I really want to ditch that and put in buckets just like the front. I'd love to see how yours looks from the factory (assuming you bought it that way). Thanks in advance.

 

[kaneo13 10+ year member]

I have to disagree with the upgrade your battery/alternator option. I am running about 1300W on a stock battery/alternator in my SUV with no cap and have no issues with lights dimming or system output.

 

[DanCap 10+ year member]

Good luck with your setup, dude. I have a non-related question for you. What year is your Explorer? I see in your avatar that you have bucket seats in the back instead of a bench. BADASS!!! Do you have a rear center console as well? Do you have any pictures of the rear seats? I have never seen one like that. My '04 has a 60/40 bench, but I really want to ditch that and put in buckets just like the front. I'd love to see how yours looks from the factory (assuming you bought it that way). Thanks in advance.

Hey man, Yes i modded the truck a lil' bit. Its an 03' explorer, but mint, like new, I totally unbolted the 3rd row seats and took them out, then i customized the back using sturdy wood, cutting it perfect and carpeting it to match the factory carpet, came out very clean. For the 2nd row seats, they arent bucket seats like the front, but one day i will do that, but I did, however, take the middle seat out of the second row and installed a rear console out of a Lincoln navigator. Pretty handy, and looks great as well.

I can probably get pictures tomorrow, so keep checking back

dan