Any Re-Coning tips? & another wiring question?

LetMyBeatPound

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My Re-Cone kit should be here any day now, I could only order 1 at a time because the 750v2 Dual 4ohm was $99, not $60 like I originally thought. But I bought some half circle foam pieces and a bunch of clamps. All the videos I've seen are pretty much all the same, just wondering if there are anything tips anyone's has that may not be shown in the standard Re-Cone vids ie: should I use the provided glues or the stuff half of the guys use in the vids ie that lock tite epoxy? I think this provided glues might work better myself, but this is my first time coning...

Also I ordered the 4g Chrome push terminals from FUAudio site, I did this because a guy I was talking to that use to do installs told me that because the terminals on my subs are 8g and my wire is 8g and because I had to cut the ends wire count to less than half on each wire to make it fit the terminals, that is also a possibility of why it ended up clipping so bad especially in the 2nd sub because he said I probably didn't split them exactly and it's get differences in resistance in each wire during hard play no to mention that having the 8g chopped in half is probably right at the limit of the power I'm trying to put to the subs for the wire size after cutting some to make it fit.

I'm just wondering if that sounds correct or has any bases in reality before I just go accepting it as fact. I had still planned to upgrade to 4g terminals even before I was told that just to make my 8g work better but that make me curious if that coulda been the cause.

Thanks again guys.

 
sounds like horseshit to me. Resistance would cause less power getting to the speaker it wouldn't clip the waveform.

 
man i wish mine had 4 ga terminals.. epoxy seems to work great but if u redoing whole thing i'd use the glue he sent, some say epoxy don't glue to painted surface so unless u gonna scrape some of the paint off around mounting point just use glue..

 
man i wish mine had 4 ga terminals.. epoxy seems to work great but if u redoing whole thing i'd use the glue he sent, some say epoxy don't glue to painted surface so unless u gonna scrape some of the paint off around mounting point just use glue..
Unfortunately, when I open the Re-Cone kit today when it came it had no glue or shim, and it says on the page where you order it from it's suppose to come with glue and a shim. And this is the lame response I got.

"We have gotten away from sending either due to glue drying up and the whims we ordered last came in the wrong size and are currently out of them."

And I'm gonna use a Dremel to clean up the metal on the spider landing and surround landing. Just like WTF already, first it says $60 for the FU750 Re-Cone kits but after you select svc or dvc 2 or 4 it changes to $99 and it was suppose to have glue and a shim and that's a no go either... I don't really care, it just ***** it's like misinformation. If it don't come with glue or shim then edit that off of the site. And instead of just $60 under the Re-Cone kit pics out $60 to $99...

Is CA glue better to use? And or is the a specific brand that is better or superior to the standard ones, an if so what site do I order it from...

Thanks a bunch guys!

 
man i wish mine had 4 ga terminals.. epoxy seems to work great but if u redoing whole thing i'd use the glue he sent, some say epoxy don't glue to painted surface so unless u gonna scrape some of the paint off around mounting point just use glue..
You can order them.. they are $7 a set... They will bolt right on like the 8g chrome push terminals an I believe that stud is the same size too

 
[quote name='LetMyBeatPound']Unfortunately, when I open the Re-Cone kit today when it came it had no glue or shim, and it says on the page where you order it from it's suppose to come with glue and a shim. And this is the lame response I got.

"We have gotten away from sending either due to glue drying up and the whims we ordered last came in the wrong size and are currently out of them."

And I'm gonna use a Dremel to clean up the metal on the spider landing and surround landing. Just like WTF already, first it says $60 for the FU750 Re-Cone kits but after you select svc or dvc 2 or 4 it changes to $99 and it was suppose to have glue and a shim and that's a no go either... I don't really care, it just ***** it's like misinformation. If it don't come with glue or shim then edit that off of the site. And instead of just $60 under the Re-Cone kit pics out $60 to $99...
Is CA glue better to use? And or is the a specific brand that is better or superior to the standard ones, an if so what site do I order it from...

Thanks a bunch guys![/QUOTE] @Popwarhomie said ca glue is very hard to grind off if u have to fix it later.. i'd get epoxy like i used or e6000.. what ***** is my tube of e6000 just got here if u were close i'd give it to u.. u are right frank is messing up his company by skimping these simple things., and need to work on his website
 
sounds like horseshit to me. Resistance would cause less power getting to the speaker it wouldn't clip the waveform.
Idk he was saying something about the max potential being slightly different in each separate lenght of wire and how it messes with the signal and how well it's transfering it kinda made sense technically but with that short of a wire, 12"-18", I doubt the amount of power and signel could be that drastically effected by plus or minus a few strands... Who knows, I'm putting bigger terminals anyway for convenience but if there is any type of issue they solve thats even better

 
I'm about to do four recones tomorrow or friday.

All I can say is it's in the prep. If you prep the sub well then everything will adhere correctly.

Don't be afraid to take a grinder or a dremel to the basket.

 
[quote name='BOOMINGRANDPA']@Popwarhomie said ca glue is very hard to grind off if u have to fix it later.. i'd get epoxy like i used or e6000.. what ***** is my tube of e6000 just got here if u were close i'd give it to u.. u are right frank is messing up his company by skimping these simple things., and need to work on his website[/QUOTE]

I have a big tube of that E6000 I bought a while back cuz a set of used subs I bought had the surround peeling and I repaired them with that E6000.
So I should use the E6000 for the surround and the Red Instant Mix Locktite epoxy that comes in the mixing syringes for the spider landing?
The only think I'm kinda leary about is doing the spacing... I have a large ream of blank printer paper I'm just thinking about stagering them back n forth until it's tight.
 
I'm about to do four recones tomorrow or friday.
All I can say is it's in the prep. If you prep the sub well then everything will adhere correctly.

Don't be afraid to take a grinder or a dremel to the basket.
Yea, I got a Dremel and a ton of sand paper, 60grit all the way up to 1000+ and even a few packs of 2000 n 3000 wet sand paper for auto body work. Only question u have is how smooth should I make it? Or should I leave it a bit rough for better adhesure?

 
Yea, I got a Dremel and a ton of sand paper, 60grit all the way up to 1000+ and even a few packs of 2000 n 3000 wet sand paper for auto body work. Only question u have is how smooth should I make it? Or should I leave it a bit rough for better adhesure?
If you use the dremel just go over it with the 60 grit.

What type of glues are you using?

Lots of guys will use different stuff for different parts.

Epoxy for spiders, amazing goop for surround, CA glue for dustcap.

I've used just about all of it.

Amazing goop has some really good give/take so it work well with surrounds. Almost acts like a really dense rubber.

For all my recones now I just do CA glue for everything.

My spiders get double. I do a pretty good size bead on the spider landing, let that sit, spray, harden. Then ill do a bit on top and I'll seal in the sides as well.

Oh with CA glue and activator, the activator will hang around for a bit. So when you put down glue, it might start to activate right away because of the activator in the air.

So once you do your first spray, you kinda have to work a little faster.

 
tell him what he can use for spacers cause i sure don't know..
For plastic I'd use epoxy.

Had good luck with that for my HDC3.

I used just the loctite blend you can get at lowes/homedepot.

Only thing is that I would give a full 48 hours before any power goes to that sub.

Especially with the colder weather, want to give it plenty of time to set and harden.

 
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