amps for mids and highs...

[Sspider 5,000+ posts]

hey yall...

i have an alpine 7998

type r comp(6.5) set up front soon to go in the rear(maybe), and add the cdt up front...

i am running an Ed 15a with about 1.75 sealed box...powered by a Rf bd1500.1

running at 4 ohms...

i need sufficient power for the interior speakers so that i can hear everything nice and crisp...

i dont know what amp to run them with...

there are 10 different speakers on the interior...

the stock tweeters in the dash (which sound great)

the component set in the front doors...

and the stock woofer(crap) and tweeter(sound g0od) in the rear door...

what ya got..

i was thinking of possibly spending at most 300 for the amp or amps...

i am currently running the front with a jbl 80.4 and the rear with an old skoo jbl amp...

i need more power, but dont know what to get...

Click to read more...

 

[Sspider 5,000+ posts]

bumpppp

i need an amp...

 

[4DMAN00 10+ year member]

Just an idea of what you can do:

get an amp that produces (the amount of CDT)x2 @ 4 ohms for the CDT (depending on the specs).

And run the rear speakers off the head unit.

 

[Sspider 5,000+ posts]

well, i cant really run the others from the head unit because, well the alpine head unit doesn't have any internal amp...

so i think i have to get two amps for the interior...

one about 10-150x2@ 4 ohms...

and another at about 50x4 @ 4 ohms...

any one have suggestions....

 

[disturbed_cbr 10+ year member]

The factory tweets will die if you put an aftermarket amp on them. And my advice is get a component set and get all after market speakers then find a good four channel. Precision Power has very clean sound.

 

[squeak9798 5,000+ posts]

The factory tweets will die if you put an aftermarket amp on them.

Not true. I have a 50w RMS amp on my stock tweeters, and they handle it just fine. Heck, I even have them crossed over at 1700hz (which is pretty darn low for any tweeter) with that amount of power on them. They aren't anything special either, just your run-of-the-mill OEM stock tweeters.

But, I would suggest not using the factory tweeters because they simply won't sound as good as your component set, which will degrade sound quality if you use them. Just stick with your component set up front, and then use the factory speakers in the rear if you want rear fill.

A single 4 channel amp should be able to handle this, since I am assuming the factory rear speakers have some sort of crossover which will allow each pair to use only one channel.

 

[disturbed_cbr 10+ year member]

Yea i would do that also my factory tweets dies in my doors but i listen to my music really loud. Some factory tweets are solid made but mine just werent.

 

[Sspider 5,000+ posts]

ok, i am lookin ginto some hifonics amps...

i will try to find a 4 channel amp that has atleast 75x4, in not i will buy one thats 100x2 for the front, and run my current amp for the rear, leaning towrds the 100x2 if hifonics makes em...

thanks

 

[Sspider 5,000+ posts]

ok, i got it, i'm leaning towards the

hifonics ZX 6000

which is 2 x 150 Watts @ 4 Ohms....

i should have more then enought power there...better to tune down then not be able to tune up...

what yall think, that will be powering my type r comps for now till i get the cdt or, live with the type r for some time and get some thing better

 

[3.5Max6spd 10+ year member]

any 50-100rms x4 amplifier is plenty for front stage - you can get away with a 2ch and run the rears off the HU fine-its just rear fill

For instance, my brother is leaning towards a RF Power 8002 (125rmsx2) to drive a set of Diamond M3's- will just have to be careful setting the gains, thats all

 

[knight007 10+ year member]

Get a 4 channel amp that will produce enough watts to your doors. I got a HiFonics ZX4400 and plan to bridge the first two channels for the front stage which should produce 110 watts each and then just run the rears normally with 50 watts each.

 

[3.5Max6spd 10+ year member]

Get a 4 channel amp that will produce enough watts to your doors. I got a HiFonics ZX4400 and plan to bridge the first two channels for the front stage which should produce 110 watts each and then just run the rears normally with 50 watts each.

^^^If you bridge the first two channels you get a 220rms mono load which is not suitable for fronts

I have a four door, I wanted a more overall listening experience for all passengers so I amplified my rear doors- but most coupes will sound great with alot of power to the front, and rears off the HU because the sound and imaging is more engulfing in a smaller car, in this case a nice 2ch will be fine- It depends on the vehicle/application I guess

 

[knight007 10+ year member]

But my Diamond Audios are rated at 60-120max. So pushing 110x2 will be fine IMO. Especially if I will be putting 1500 @ 1ohm to my subs. Again thats IMO!

 

[Sspider 5,000+ posts]

i cant run my rears from the head unit, because, the alipine 7998 has no internal amp, so i will need an amp for them....

i as well like how it sounds with rear fill, makes it sound full, and the people in the rear can get a pleasant listening experience aswell...

i am running the RF bd1500.1 to my ED 15a, wiried at 4 ohms...

so i do need suffiecient power fo rmy mids and highs...

i am leaning towards the hifonics zx6000, and pushing the rear with 50x2...

 

[Sspider 5,000+ posts]

oonly complaint i have with getting the hifoncs is that i will be running different brands of amps, i could either go all RF or all Hifoncs....

ughhh

i would much rather run one brand of amps...