Amplifier Wish List

[gckless 5,000+ posts]

Alright, so I have been looking around, and need some advice. I am looking to build an amp wish list. I don't need something immediately, I have an MTX now that will get me by, but I do want to know what I should be looking for. I want to get an idea of which amps I should buy immediately if I see them for a good amount cheaper, or something I should buy new. Honestly I would prefer new, that's just how I am about electronics. Here are the basics of what I am looking for:

- Budget: $800, though a bit more money for a much better amp is in the cards.

- Power: 2k - 3.5k @ 1 Ohm.

- Low THD is a must. I am looking for a very clean amp. Sound quality is of much more importance than SPL.

- High efficiency.

- Good build quality. I am looking for something to last me a little while.

- Really no space limitations.

Currently I'm only running a single 12" RE SX @ 1 ohm, but I will be upgrading/adding more shortly after a new amp purchase. I have a single 0 gauge running from battery to amp, would really want an amp that does not require multiple. I know this is pushing it at 3.5k, that's why I'm asking for high efficiency.

Just looking to get some ideas. I have been looking around, and Crescendo, DD Sounds, IA, Audiopipe, all seem to have good amps, but there are so many manufacturers, and so many that are not widely popular, which is why I'm asking for a bit of help.

Just looking for your opinions, and pics are always welcome! //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif

Click to read more...

 

[hispls 5,000+ posts]

1 ohm and sound quality huh? Interesting....

 

[quackhead 10+ year member]

Only one topology comes close...and the only one I know of with the power you seek:

Blackdeath Amplifiers | VIBE Audio

here is the BlackDeath B1:

VIBE Audio Black Death Bass 1 V1 2500W RMS Monoblock Amplifier

 

[xSPLoder 10+ year member]

DC 3.5k DC Audio - 3.5k

AB VFL 175.1 American Bass - VFL 175.1

I personally am not a fan of DC products but they make good amps.

 

[quackhead 10+ year member]

DC 3.5k DC Audio - 3.5kAB VFL 175.1 American Bass - VFL 175.1

I personally am not a fan of DC products but they make good amps.

I agree with the amps you show..good meat in both of them..but when a manufacturer shows

 

[quackhead 10+ year member]

Arc audio KS2500.1

 

[gckless 5,000+ posts]

Well looks like I smoked my current amp, no idea how, so a new one is top priority now. Budget is down to about $500 though. I'm looking at a DC Audio 2.0k, which they have quoted $495 shipped to me. I'm running a RE SXX wired down to 1 ohm right now. Anyone have an opinion on something better/cheaper?

Not sure why the amp smoked, but I think it may just have been a crap amp. It is a MTX RFL1200D. I know it's not the wiring to the amp, both the positive lead and the grounding block are shared by my 4 channel amp, which is fine. I think it was just something internal that may have been unavoidable. I bought the amp last year used, and it's been sitting in my closet until now. It was running fine for about a day with gain around 1/4, and then today I tuned my 4 channel amp's gain, did the same to the sub amp, and it blew a fair amount of smoke during that. What I did was turn the gain all the way down, turn on a 50Hz test tone, plug my DMM into the speaker leads as I should, and started raising the gain. My max on gain was 34.6V, I was going to go for about 32V, and around 18V is where it smoked. I have not taken it apart yet to look at it, but I have a feeling it was just a bad egg. Or maybe I did something wrong?

As a sidenote, I much prefer the Tsunami 0ga to the Stinger 0ga, atleast to work with. Just something I noticed //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif

 

[akheathen Premium Member]

I agree with the amps you show..good meat in both of them..but when a manufacturer shows
well, kind of. close, though. class-d is defined by the pulse modulation/switching style of the output stages. class g&h are more or less made in how the rail voltages are set-up, which is a power supply functioning.

it is class-d technology and advancements that lead to the fast response ability to implement the 2 technologies.

as simple as i can explain it:

class-G: 2, or more different rail voltages are used. it primarily runs a/b output stages from the lower voltage rails, as long as the output power demand does not exceed what the lower rail can feed. by doing this, the transistors run cooler, and loose less to heat, as well as less load on the power supply. when the demand is greater, then there is a class-c drive stage that connects the higher voltage rail to feed the output transistors, so the outputs have the higher voltage feed at the top, and bottom of a high power wave demand, but not having to fight the higher voltage when it is not needed. so, it is a way of modifying an a/b amp to not waste so much power, and not create so much heat, but still an a/b amp, none-the-less

Class-H: this is simply a modified rail voltage regulated power supply in a class a/b amp. typically, a regulated power supply references the output rail voltage, and drives the power supply section at different levels to keep the voltage constant. what a class h does, is use a normally lower rail voltage until, once again, a class-c circuit tells it that more rail voltage is needed at the top/bottom of the wave, and it drives the power supply higher to supply the higher voltage only when needed.

in short, class g/h is class ab with a piggy-back class-c.

 

[akheathen Premium Member]

Well looks like I smoked my current amp, no idea how, so a new one is top priority now. Budget is down to about $500 though. I'm looking at a DC Audio 2.0k, which they have quoted $495 shipped to me. I'm running a RE SXX wired down to 1 ohm right now. Anyone have an opinion on something better/cheaper?
Not sure why the amp smoked, but I think it may just have been a crap amp. It is a MTX RFL1200D. I know it's not the wiring to the amp, both the positive lead and the grounding block are shared by my 4 channel amp, which is fine. I think it was just something internal that may have been unavoidable. I bought the amp last year used, and it's been sitting in my closet until now. It was running fine for about a day with gain around 1/4, and then today I tuned my 4 channel amp's gain, did the same to the sub amp, and it blew a fair amount of smoke during that. What I did was turn the gain all the way down, turn on a 50Hz test tone, plug my DMM into the speaker leads as I should, and started raising the gain. My max on gain was 34.6V, I was going to go for about 32V, and around 18V is where it smoked. I have not taken it apart yet to look at it, but I have a feeling it was just a bad egg. Or maybe I did something wrong?

As a sidenote, I much prefer the Tsunami 0ga to the Stinger 0ga, atleast to work with. Just something I noticed //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif

I don't want to offend, but what i noticed, is that you want 2-3.5k, yet you do not want dual inputs. at that power level, multiple power inputs ease my mind more than an amp with single inputs. what was your system voltage at, when it blew? do you grasp just how much effect a voltage drop has on an amp? perhaps it was just a faulty amp, but make sure, as not to do it again. did the pot (gain) sound scratchy at all while you were adjusting? it could have been spiking an already stressed power supply

 

[gckless 5,000+ posts]

I don't want to offend, but what i noticed, is that you want 2-3.5k, yet you do not want dual inputs. at that power level, multiple power inputs ease my mind more than an amp with single inputs. what was your system voltage at, when it blew? do you grasp just how much effect a voltage drop has on an amp? perhaps it was just a faulty amp, but make sure, as not to do it again. did the pot (gain) sound scratchy at all while you were adjusting? it could have been spiking an already stressed power supply

I do agree with you, 3.5k is really pushing it. I have decided to stay in the lower end of that field, I'm looking at 2.0k's now. As long as they are somewhat efficient, I would think a single 1/0ga is sufficient. Or am I wrong?

I do not know the exact voltage at the moment it blew. But I can guess, based on this: when I originally installed it, before tuning, I set the gain to 1/4. Voltage was dropping a bit, but not a whole lot, staying above 13, normally would only drop to in the mid-13's. I only seen it hit 12.9 once, during the about 15 minutes I was very closely watching voltages. After that, every now and then I checked it, and again, never below 13. When I was tuning it, when it blew, I was right around the 1/4 mark. I don't know exactly where it was, as I was watching the DMM, but I remember glancing at it and seeing it around 1/4. So, I'm estimating in the 13's somewhere. I don't think it was this, though I'm not ruling it out.

And I'm pretty sure I don't have the knowledge depth of voltage drop effect on amps I would like. You have somewhere you could point me to read about it, or care to type something up?

I would very much like to figure out what caused it. I'm hoping to open up the amp this weekend, that will definitely tell a lot I think. Audio CSI!

 

[LosIsATool 5,000+ posts]

I know where a ARC KS2500 is for $750. Pm me if you want to talk about it. It's BNIB

 

[quackhead 10+ year member]

I do agree with you, 3.5k is really pushing it. I have decided to stay in the lower end of that field, I'm looking at 2.0k's now. As long as they are somewhat efficient, I would think a single 1/0ga is sufficient. Or am I wrong?
I do not know the exact voltage at the moment it blew. But I can guess, based on this: when I originally installed it, before tuning, I set the gain to 1/4. Voltage was dropping a bit, but not a whole lot, staying above 13, normally would only drop to in the mid-13's. I only seen it hit 12.9 once, during the about 15 minutes I was very closely watching voltages. After that, every now and then I checked it, and again, never below 13. When I was tuning it, when it blew, I was right around the 1/4 mark. I don't know exactly where it was, as I was watching the DMM, but I remember glancing at it and seeing it around 1/4. So, I'm estimating in the 13's somewhere. I don't think it was this, though I'm not ruling it out.

And I'm pretty sure I don't have the knowledge depth of voltage drop effect on amps I would like. You have somewhere you could point me to read about it, or care to type something up?

I would very much like to figure out what caused it. I'm hoping to open up the amp this weekend, that will definitely tell a lot I think. Audio CSI!

Some amps are more forgiving than others when it comes to voltage operating ranges. I do not see an amp running fine and then just smoking by adjusting the gain unless it was starved.

Was the engine running when you saw the voltage dropping to 13 on that 1200 watt amp at low gain?

You said you have 0 ga from the battery, is this true for the amp to ground as well? Did you upgrade the Alt to battery with larger wire and all grounding points from the battery with 0ga ?

What battery do you have? has it been checked to see if it is holding a good charge?

Have you checked across all fuse points to see if there is voltage loss due to a bad connection?

I would be very hesitant to install another amp in the vehicle until I knew the vehicle could support the power I need.

 

[akheathen Premium Member]

i have seen, and experienced amps smoking for not apparent, controllable reason. sometimes transistors just fail, and a resistor out of spec can cause this, as well. not the most likely but does happen. anyways, what happens with a voltage drop really depends on how the amp is designed, or what type. keeping it simple, we'll look at pwm, power supplies, which are real common. what they are doing is switching 12v back, and forth through one side of the transformer, usualy, each direction is under 1/4 of the time on. it monitors the other side of the transformer to keep the voltage up to a certain level( rail voltage). when you have less voltage, then there is less power coming out of the 12v supply, then it has to work harder, and keep the pulses on longer, to pass more power and keep the rai supply up. it will max out at 50% cycle. the transformer relies on a charged rail to keep resistance down on the primary side. as that is depleted, it allows more current through. past this point, there is voltage drop on both sides. it is real similar to a low battery turning the starter in your car. at higher voltage it passes an acceptable amount of current, and stays cool enough while working. a half dead battery barely turns the starter less, and drops resistance, passing more current. you can often see starter damage coincide with a weak battery, or recent weak battery. similar principal with transistors.

 

[gckless 5,000+ posts]

I know where a ARC KS2500 is for $750. Pm me if you want to talk about it. It's BNIB

Unfortunately this is still out of my price range.

Some amps are more forgiving than others when it comes to voltage operating ranges. I do not see an amp running fine and then just smoking by adjusting the gain unless it was starved.
Was the engine running when you saw the voltage dropping to 13 on that 1200 watt amp at low gain?

You said you have 0 ga from the battery, is this true for the amp to ground as well? Did you upgrade the Alt to battery with larger wire and all grounding points from the battery with 0ga ?

What battery do you have? has it been checked to see if it is holding a good charge?

Have you checked across all fuse points to see if there is voltage loss due to a bad connection?

I would be very hesitant to install another amp in the vehicle until I knew the vehicle could support the power I need.

The engine was running. I have 0ga from amp to ground. 0ga from alt to battery and battery to ground, however I have not gotten engine to ground yet, because it's impossible to get to without taking off the intercooler. Haven't had time for that. I need to find that time, I know. I have a Yellowtop battery, 750 CCA's, and it's brand new. I have not checked it, but with it being less than a week old, I would assume it's fine. I have not measured any connections to check for voltage loss, but that will need to happen. I do have some work to do.

I guess I was completely oblivious to the fact that it was possible to toast an amp by not feeding it enough power. I have so much to learn. Kinda ***** I'm doin it the hard way though! Lol.

I very much need to figure this out before I put a new amp in. I am with you on that one.

 

[kramer_212 10+ year member]

Straight up hands down

Rockford Fosgate t2500-1bdcp...make sure its the cp.

mine the birth sheet is over 3300 at one and 2 ohm.