Amp wire or big 3

[ShadowElky]

So I spent my day off walking around my job, Pull A Part, searching for something to use to make a big 3 kit. My labor yielded a nearly complete Kicker 4 gauge kit for $6. About a 3' ground and 20' of positive. As I am currently running Sound Quest VL 4 gauge for amp wiring I can't decide if I want to rewire using the kicker or use the kicker to make a Big 3 kit. My amp only does 800 watts max so what do you guys recommend? Rewire or use it for alternator wire and ground?

Click to read more...

 

[adulbrich 5,000+ posts]

Big 3, if your current amp wire is fine

 

[ShadowElky]

Big 3, if your current amp wire is fine

I have no issues with it, it looked a little smaller than the kicker 4 gauge, more like 6 gauge. But even that will work if I'm only running 800 watts right?

 

[adulbrich 5,000+ posts]

I have no issues with it, it looked a little smaller than the kicker 4 gauge, more like 6 gauge. But even that will work if I'm only running 800 watts right?

Should be fine. What's your voltage drop at full tilt? Big 3 may not even be necessary, but it won't hurt if you do it correctly.

 

[ShadowElky]

Won't know until I get my SA-15. Currently only running at 500 watts on a Hifonics Brutus 15. But I purchased an SA-15 D2 to run my amp at 800 @1ohm. I'm gonna check what the voltage drop is currently and update.

 

[adulbrich 5,000+ posts]

Alright, sounds good

 

[ShadowElky]

Alright, sounds good

Playing Doctor Oblivion by Bass Mekanik (peaks at 40,50, and 60 hz) it got as low as 13.2-13.4 on the drop, but at sustained beats it was around 13.8. This is only doing 500 watts with the radio turned up to 26 (where it was when I set amp with a 40 hz tone). Should I do the big 3? My car has electric windows, electric power steering, one of those fancy CVT transmissions, etc.

That was using an OBD2 adaptor with Torque Pro which reads the voltage at the control module

 

[adulbrich 5,000+ posts]

Yea, big three may do some good

 

[ShadowElky]

Alright. I know the main 2 are Alternator to Positive and Negative to body, but where else should I do? Theres a company that sells a pretty made kit that goes from driver side strut tower to negative, passenger side strut tower to upper torque mount, torque mount to intake manifold bolt, torque mount bracket to transmission, and alternator bracket to main motor mount. Should I just copy that?

 

[ShadowElky]

Looks kinda like this

 

[adulbrich 5,000+ posts]

Alright. I know the main 2 are Alternator to Positive and Negative to body, but where else should I do? Theres a company that sells a pretty made kit that goes from driver side strut tower to negative, passenger side strut tower to upper torque mount, torque mount to intake manifold bolt, torque mount bracket to transmission, and alternator bracket to main motor mount. Should I just copy that?

Engine block to chassis is another.

 

[ShadowElky]

Engine block to chassis is another.

Wondering if that's what the one that goes from Intake to Torque mount to strut tower is for. Hmm. Anyways, where's the best place to get a bunch of 4 gauge ring terminals? And what size should I get? I see multiple ring sizes.

 

[adulbrich 5,000+ posts]

Wondering if that's what the one that goes from Intake to Torque mount to strut tower is for. Hmm. Anyways, where's the best place to get a bunch of 4 gauge ring terminals? And what size should I get? I see multiple ring sizes.

I don't know why that one kit is so complicated..

Search on ebay. Get whatever size you need. I'm assuming you're talking about the bolt hole size

 

[ShadowElky]

I think that one kit was more for engine performance than audio. Copper ring terminals or is there something better?

 

[adulbrich 5,000+ posts]

Copper lugs are probably the best, but you won't see major differences in ring terminal performance