Amp turns off... still


metalheadjoe

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E

Well I know that. But in the previous posts all else has been covered. New battery, new ho alternator, big 3, remote wiring, grounding points. So what else is there left besides downstream? I am making educated guesses, for that is what troubleshooting is all about. I do not like making this man go through all these steps, but if it yeids a solution? Hell yeah! We have all learned something new.


This is a given. That is why I stated earlier that an alternator cannot supply voltage above it's set point. Hence the question,"Where are these 17.2v coming from?".
At this point I'll leave you to argue with yourself, because you are saying stupid shit and then agreeing with me when i tell you it's stupid. I mean he hasn't replaced his windshield yet; think that'll help? "Gotta cover all bases!"
 

1aespinoza

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May 22, 2013
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At this point I'll leave you to argue with yourself, because you are saying stupid shit and then agreeing with me when i tell you it's stupid. I mean he hasn't replaced his windshield yet; think that'll help? "Gotta cover all bases!"
No need to get upset. That benefits nobody and raises you blood pressure. "Replace the windshield." Now you are just being silly.
 

metalheadjoe

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No need to get upset. That benefits nobody and raises you blood pressure. "Replace the windshield." Now you are just being silly.
Different things sound silly to different levels of expertise. That's probably why I think most of your "advice" in this thread sounds silly.
 

AnthonyO

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I just googled 2008 Ford F-150 voltage spike. Holy [email protected], this is common as hell in the 2006-2008 F150. Some people have tried 3 to 4 alternators and get the same issue. Good luck. Hope you figure it out.
 

Spazz131

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When I indused the issue and tested at the cig lighter, it showed 17.02
CHECK YOUR ALT PINS AND SEE IF THE ALTERNATOR WIRING HARNESS IS LOOSE WHEN IT'S PLUGGED INTO THE ALT.

I've had that happen before because my explorer had basically no exhaust and it vibrated the truck a lot, and it would vibrate my alt wiring harness out of the alternator enough that I lost voltage control and I would spike to like almost 18 volts
Okay, checked the pins and they seem to be tight, I certainly struggled to unplug it.

Buck just brought up a good point on another thread. Have you checked the subs' impedance?
I run then at 1ohm, but unfortunately I don't think it matters, but I will still check, maybe something else is wrong there haha.

Try the other alternator like Metalhead suggested
So, I finally got around to doing this, and the results were Interesting. First let me start by saying this alternator uses a different wiring harness than my stock and causes a charging code no matter how I wire it. I have verified everything (to my knowledge) is working. Upon testing I was able to induce the issue be it a lot less. I need more time to test as, i need to get voltages and, like I said sometimes it works well sometimes it does not.



I think I responded to everyone's ideas... all your feedback is great and truly appreciated. I'm sorry my truck is a lemon 🍋 haha
 

metalheadjoe

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Do you still have the oem alternator to try?

Bring your alternator in to get tested.
 

AnthonyO

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Quick question. Have you checked the battery cables to make sure they are secure and not corroded?
 

AnthonyO

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I actually replaced the terminals not to long ago. Do you think that could affect it?
As long as they are secure and not corroded. Since you just replaced them I would recheck your connections. Make sure everything is tight.
 

Spazz131

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As long as they are secure and not corroded. Since you just replaced them I would recheck your connections. Make sure everything is tight.
I will. Mind you I have before but its worth it again.

I just had a capacitor delivered. I'll have to see if that helps at all as a bandaid to the issue.

As for the other alternator, it's definitely a lot more stable, but it's not really fixing the issue... plus idk about yall but I don't like having lights on my dash. I think im gonna swap in my stock voltage regulator, into the ho alternator and see if that makes a difference
 

Buck

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I will. Mind you I have before but its worth it again.

I just had a capacitor delivered. I'll have to see if that helps at all as a bandaid to the issue.

As for the other alternator, it's definitely a lot more stable, but it's not really fixing the issue... plus idk about yall but I don't like having lights on my dash. I think im gonna swap in my stock voltage regulator, into the ho alternator and see if that makes a difference
FIELD wire. My HO alt made my battery light come on as well. I never cared enough to figure it out. The car computer maybe doesn't like the way the alt acts.
 

Buck

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I do


Is the field wire the one that rest around 7 to 12v?
The field wire IIRC determines the load your alternator thinks it has. So if that wire is messed up, it can mess with your charging voltage. This is from memory, but you may want to look into that.
 

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