amp keeps going in protect

I got a better one for ya smart guy, why don't you tell me why everyone i know who runs their kicker amps to recommended loads have 0 problems and get a lot of power from the amp. While the people who run them below their rated load have problems even with imp rise. i guess you just don't get it. I haven't seen anyone running them at recommened loads having the same issue you were. Even the guys who said they are having the same problem are all running them below whats recommended.//content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/*******.gif.a649d21efc0d1fd4890a6428166586c1.gif
hahah

try this one

"crazed4caraudio from realm of excursion:

 

I'm having a problem with my ZX2500.1 amp and also the ZX650.4.

 

I'll start with the 2500.1.

Here's my hook up... I'm gonna start from the Alt.

300A alt - 1/0 wire to 300A fuse to Battery (+) ---- Battery (-) 1/0 wire to chassis & 1/0 wire from engine to chassis. From Battery (+) 1/0 wire to 300A fuse then into conduit running along underside of body up through rear trunk area. then wire going into distribution block. On other side of block 1/0 wire to 300A fuse then into ZX2500.1 amp. Ground at rear trunk area at 2 places.

 

Battery up front is a 34/78 Optima Red Top. Settings on amp are only 1/4 turn for gain and all others are at zero.

 

With stereo playing at half the volume, the bass is strong for about 3 minutes, then will go into protection. This is where I would hope you guys could answer why?!!!

I have have a orion amp & MTX amp hooked up to this with "no" problems, but with this Kicker amp, it goes into protect. The sound is then muffled and scared not to leave volume up for last time, it some how burnt the caps in the amp. So I had to sent it to Kicker for repairs. Now it seems like almost the same thing is about to happen. Reason sent to Kicker: Bought new, powered up amp, both green and red lights were on. Smoke appeared - caps fried.

Also my 4 channel amp goes into protect before my sub amp, but comes back on with in a min.

 

So I'm lost. I have checked everything I could think of. DMM on battery, wires both - & + both volts and ohms. all connections. With sub amp on, I only see down to 13.2V but peaks around 15.3 for recharge on battery. Load tested battery and they load tested upto 900CCA and said its better than normal, mines only 800CCA, lol.

 

I was thinking maybe its the remote wire, not giving the amp enough power? it read like 12.?V Remote wire is hooked to back of radio.

Also I know I need another battery or 2, which I will be getting soon. But not needing the extra power to figure this out!

Also subs are 2ohm into amp, so amp is seeing that

 

PLEASE HELP"

well theres one....

and everyone running them below has problems?

quote from tommyk90 who runs his zx2500.1 @ 1 ohms, and is a kicker team member and competitior

"Plus my impedence rise spikes at around 2.7 ohms, a nice sweet spot for the zx2500. All of my teammates that have a zx2500 run them at 1 ohm for daily (another actually has his at .7), and they all love the amps."

hugh g. rection quote

"yep. in my car, kx2500.1 + 1ohm = happy for daily"

oh and last but not least

Polecat...the kicker rep. heres a nice quote from him

"guys have ran them to .7, and with the impedance rise, you'd be fine"

so please. just shut the fuck up.

 
It's the fvckin zx lineup....mine did the exact same thing...and when they finally figured it out, it was a solder(sp) in the amp itself that kept burning up after it received more than x amount of power.....at least thats what kicker told me....they said it is a common problem in the new zx's.
hmmm...i actually saw some brown (kinda looked burnt or at least a little cooked) area right on 4 solder points that were all in a row..and considering the kx and zx boards are one in the same //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/hitbybrick.gif.68a672fae224041f00769a97c2c1bf2d.gif

 
hahah
try this one

"crazed4caraudio from realm of excursion:

 

I'm having a problem with my ZX2500.1 amp and also the ZX650.4.

 

I'll start with the 2500.1.

Here's my hook up... I'm gonna start from the Alt.

300A alt - 1/0 wire to 300A fuse to Battery (+) ---- Battery (-) 1/0 wire to chassis & 1/0 wire from engine to chassis. From Battery (+) 1/0 wire to 300A fuse then into conduit running along underside of body up through rear trunk area. then wire going into distribution block. On other side of block 1/0 wire to 300A fuse then into ZX2500.1 amp. Ground at rear trunk area at 2 places.

 

Battery up front is a 34/78 Optima Red Top. Settings on amp are only 1/4 turn for gain and all others are at zero.

 

With stereo playing at half the volume, the bass is strong for about 3 minutes, then will go into protection. This is where I would hope you guys could answer why?!!!

I have have a orion amp & MTX amp hooked up to this with "no" problems, but with this Kicker amp, it goes into protect. The sound is then muffled and scared not to leave volume up for last time, it some how burnt the caps in the amp. So I had to sent it to Kicker for repairs. Now it seems like almost the same thing is about to happen. Reason sent to Kicker: Bought new, powered up amp, both green and red lights were on. Smoke appeared - caps fried.

Also my 4 channel amp goes into protect before my sub amp, but comes back on with in a min.

 

So I'm lost. I have checked everything I could think of. DMM on battery, wires both - & + both volts and ohms. all connections. With sub amp on, I only see down to 13.2V but peaks around 15.3 for recharge on battery. Load tested battery and they load tested upto 900CCA and said its better than normal, mines only 800CCA, lol.

 

I was thinking maybe its the remote wire, not giving the amp enough power? it read like 12.?V Remote wire is hooked to back of radio.

Also I know I need another battery or 2, which I will be getting soon. But not needing the extra power to figure this out!

Also subs are 2ohm into amp, so amp is seeing that

 

PLEASE HELP"

well theres one....

and everyone running them below has problems?

quote from tommyk90 who runs his zx2500.1 @ 1 ohms, and is a kicker team member and competitior

"Plus my impedence rise spikes at around 2.7 ohms, a nice sweet spot for the zx2500. All of my teammates that have a zx2500 run them at 1 ohm for daily (another actually has his at .7), and they all love the amps."

hugh g. rection quote

"yep. in my car, kx2500.1 + 1ohm = happy for daily"

oh and last but not least

Polecat...the kicker rep. heres a nice quote from him

"guys have ran them to .7, and with the impedance rise, you'd be fine"

so please. just shut the fuck up.

I read one guy running his at 2 ohms having problems, everyone else is having problems at 1 ohm. Therefore you made no point. I know they can be ran at 1 ohm but if you have problems at 1 ohm, its not a problem with the amp, It's the guy running it below whats recommended. So why don't you stfu idiot

So i guess if it blows on you, it must be a shitty amp, right?

/yourself

 
I read one guy running his at 2 ohms having problems, everyone else is having problems at 1 ohm. Therefore you made no point. I know they can be ran at 1 ohm but if you have problems at 1 ohm, its not a problem with the amp, It's the guy running it below whats recommended. So why don't you stfu idiot
i just posted a 2 people AND a kicker rep saying they will run fine

typerbass had 4 of them...all running @ 1 ohm with no issues...

 
i just posted a 2 people AND a kicker rep saying they will run fine
typerbass had 4 of them...all running @ 1 ohm with no issues...
Wow, you're not a very smart guy. Let me slow this down for you. I do know that they can be ran at 1 ohm with success from many, however if you have problems with running it at 1 ohm,the amp is not to blame.

 
i just posted a 2 people AND a kicker rep saying they will run fine
typerbass had 4 of them...all running @ 1 ohm with no issues...
Wow, you're not a very smart guy. Let me slow this down for you. I do know that they can be ran at 1 ohm with success from many, however if you have problems with running it at 1 ohm, the amps not to blame. Kicker recommended 2 ohm operation for a reason. I've also seen many that can't run theres at 1 ohm because it goes into protect. If you have problems at 1 ohm, buy a 1 ohm stable amp. Like i said just because some are successful with running them at 1 ohm doesn't mean everyone will have that same luck.

 
Wow, you're not a very smart guy. Let me slow this down for you. I do know that they can be ran at 1 ohm with success from many, however if you have problems with running it at 1 ohm, the amps not to blame. Kicker recommended 2 ohm operation for a reason. I've also seen many that can't run theres at 1 ohm because it goes into protect. If you have problems at 1 ohm, buy a 1 ohm stable amp. Like i said just because some are successful with running them at 1 ohm doesn't mean everyone will have that same luck.
and i posted a log of my impedance rise in my other thread....

35hz i am sitting @ 3.71 ohms

40hz - 4.05 ohms

45hz - 6.63 ohms

50hz - 4.79 ohms

55hz - 3.91 ohms

60hz - 3.72 ohms

now explain to me why even though i never go under 3 ohms AND a kicker rep (polecat) said the amp will be fine due to impedance rise...that my amp still kicks into protect you turdburgler

 
Yo123, your amp is clipping, its a safety feature that way it won't blow or fry the circuitry. I think that your subs impedance load on the amp is causing it. I always tell people to first buy the speakers and secondly buy the amp. Don't try to match the amp to the speaker, but the speaker to the amp. Another factor is that whenever you increase the volume from your head unit, the head unit increases the voltage signal to the amplifier. So when you get to level 22 in your volume and a hard bass note hits, that's all the amplifier can handle. You mind telling me what kind of subs you have, the brand name, the model, how many and how do you have them wired, in series or parallel ? Then I may be able to suggest a proper amplifier for your subwoofers. You probably also need to purchase a 1 Farad capacitor for your amp. The capacitor stores electricity, that way whenever the amp needs a little extra power, for example when you're listening to that Techmaster P.E.B. Bass Computer CD, there will be enough juice for your amp and will be less of a load on your electrical system. Let me know about your sub's info. Peace.

 
//content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/laugh.gif.48439b2acf2cfca21620f01e7f77d1e4.gif I don't think George is the dumbass.
no, of course i'm the idiot for running my amp at what the manufacturer recommends.//content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/rolleyes.gif.c1fef805e9d1464d377451cd5bc18bfb.gif

I have my subs wired at 2 ohms to my zx1500.1 and i have 0 issues. I guess i'm not too bright.lol

 
no, of course i'm the idiot for running my amp at what the manufacturer recommends.//content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/rolleyes.gif.c1fef805e9d1464d377451cd5bc18bfb.gif
I have my subs wired at 2 ohms to my zx1500.1 and i have 0 issues. I guess i'm not too bright.lol
Well there is such a thing as impedance rise.

My zx2500.1 runs at 1 ohm all day long. It has never went into protection.

 
Well there is such a thing as impedance rise.
My zx2500.1 runs at 1 ohm all day long. It has never went into protection.
i understand impedance rise and like i said before my friend was running his zx1500.1 at 1 ohm with no problems as well. However Kicker doesn't recommend running it that low, so if you have problems running it's your fault. People need to stop focusing on imp rise a little because if it were a factor, why not run the zx2500.1 at 0.5 ohms knowing the imp rise will bring you above 2 ohms.i bet if you try it your amp will go into protect. Wire your subs to the amp for the ohm load thats its recommended for and you'll have no problems.My point is just that people complain about amp problems when they don't even run it how the manufacturer recommends.I'll say again, not every car is the same nor are all electrical systems the same, some will have success, while some won't. I'm done here, people can do whatever they want to there equipment, i really don't care. I run mine how it was recommended and have no problems. Happy bumping everyone

 
i understand impedance rise and like i said before my friend was running his zx1500.1 at 1 ohm with no problems as well. However Kicker doesn't recommend running it that low, so if you have problems running it's your fault. People need to stop focusing on imp rise a little because if it were a factor, why not run the zx2500.1 at 0.5 ohms knowing the imp rise will bring you above 2 ohms.i bet if you try it your amp will go into protect. Wire your subs to the amp for the ohm load thats its recommended for and you'll have no problems.My point is just that people complain about amp problems when they don't even run it how the manufacturer recommends.I'll say again, not every car is the same nor are all electrical systems the same, some will have success, while some won't. I'm done here, people can do whatever they want to there equipment, i really don't care. I run mine how it was recommended and have no problems. Happy bumping everyone
bump

bump

bumpity bump bump

 
Anybody else know about this problem or how to fix it? I have a kx2500.1 and a kx350.4 and the 350.4 bumps into protect if I play it at loud volumes. I goes out of protect in a couple seconds but it is really anoying. The 2500.1 has no problems but the 350.4 has problems even if it is the only one hooked up.

 
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