Amp goes into protect when turned up.

chronicmayne

Junior Member
I've been reading a lot of the threads from people who had the same issue but I think I need further help.

I've installed stereos fine in the past and this is the first time I've had an issue.

The wiring I'm using used to run a 1500w inverter in the same car.

So here's the details:

10 inch subwoofer 250w rms amp. The ohms rated on the speaker are 4ohms. The amp bridged pushes out max power at 4ohms. So that's legit right? I've used a multimeter to check the voltages at the amp and it's 12 steady. In fact the battery is only reading like .05 volts more than where the amp is.

When the amp is on its at 12, when it goes into protect it's still at 12.

What's confusing me the most is the sub and amp will work for 30 minutes then it turns off and goes into protect. Then I get home and it goes into protect every time I turn up the volume. Then I go to bed wake up next morning it works again for 10 minutes goes into protect. Then after a while of being off I come back and it works again for 20 minutes and goes into protect.

Now I'm at home and it goes into protect instantly when I turn it up.

The hell is going on lol. The amp isnt hot, the wires seem fine (since no voltage drop), no fuses are blown, RCA gain is at half, no bass boost, and why does it sometimes work and sometimes doesnt? Is this amp bad?

 
If it was an over-heating issue then why is it when I have the car sitting for 3 hours and go to turn it on and it still goes into protect right away?

It randomly chooses when it wants to work.

 
check your voltage at the amp with the amp loaded down.

i would check and tighten any terminals for your power and ground into the amp

other than that it sounds like the amp is bad

 
Amp will still turn on at 12v. It's in protect... If it was acting up from the get go obviously the amp has a problem. Check ground. If it's good try a different amp. If a different amp goes into protect then you know the problem isn't the amp and it's something else

 
Ok so I went to the local Audio Express so they can check out the system. It was 73 dollars. They tested the amp and says it works but I still have assumptions it might be dead. They also tested the speaker and said it was fine.

So then they check out the wiring, everything went to the right place they said. (they seemed to be ok with a ground to the rear seat belt bolt, sanded down)

Then they told me the power wiring was too thin. They then want to charge me another 80 bucks to put in new wiring lol.

I run to home depot and pick up some thick wire just to test. Wire it up to the battery with a fuse, and wire it to the amp. The amp still goes into protect when I turn up the volume.

On the way home from Audio Express the amp was on but nothing came out the speaker. RCA issues?

This has been fun. Going back to Audio Express will cost me more money I dont want to spend.

 
Amp will still turn on at 12v. It's in protect... If it was acting up from the get go obviously the amp has a problem. Check ground. If it's good try a different amp. If a different amp goes into protect then you know the problem isn't the amp and it's something else
I have it grounded to a completely sanded down seat belt buckle bolt. Not a good spot?

If not, I read about drilling holes into the car to get to the frame but how do you attach it to the frame? Is there a write up somewhere?

 

---------- Post added at 06:30 PM ---------- Previous post was at 06:30 PM ----------

 

It's always reading 12 volts? Is the car running or turned off??
If it's running, the voltage should be at least 14v.
12 with car off. 12 on the battery terminals and amp terminals.

 
I have it grounded to a completely sanded down seat belt buckle bolt. Not a good spot?
If not, I read about drilling holes into the car to get to the frame but how do you attach it to the frame? Is there a write up somewhere?

 

---------- Post added at 06:30 PM ---------- Previous post was at 06:30 PM ----------

 

12 with car off. 12 on the battery terminals and amp terminals.
Not a good spot.

 
Not a good spot.
could or couldnt be.

get a dmm.

test the bolt at seat belt in ohms on the dmm, should get a low reading close to zero ohms if its a good ground. youl need to put 1 dmm pin on a pos source like the battery lead. and then place the neg dmm pin on the area you want to test.

 
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chronicmayne

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