Amp for ONE 12in alpine type R?

[Kibbe17 10+ year member]

Backround info:

I have One Alpine Type R 12 in SWR-1222D (2ohm)

and One Eclipse XA 1200 amp powering it.

Bought these about 9 months ago and made a Custom ported Sub box for the setup.

The dimensions of my box are 11.5x16.5x24in tuned to 34hz With a port hole 2in diameter and 2.75in long. This was all worked out in WinISD among many many other studies.. and it is my first custom box.

With that said, This system is great!..................................on high-mids... but will not hit the lows!.. up until now i have just put up with it because it is an awsome system for the most part but now im looking for that extra boom.. mainly LOWS. at first i thought maybe it was the box but i have studied and studied and STUDIED and i actually think I made the box spot on.

So I tried looking into how to professionally tune the amp (i have a multimeter)and according to what (I THINK) I have found, is that the gain has to match the Peamp output of the Head Unit.. Upon learning this I realized that the output on my HU is actually 2.2V and my amp maxes out at only 1.2V, so maybe its time for a new amp.

Hopefully this story makes sense to you guys and you can point me the right direction. I am not sure which would be best now because I thought that the XA1200 would be a perfect match see-ins how The RMS of the 1200 matches the RMS of the Type R.

And SORRY if this has been over before i have searched the forums pretty good and only find "which amp for TWO type Rs"...I only need to worry about one..

THANKS IN ADVANCE FOR ANY HELP!

Click to read more...

 

[9515ROB 10+ year member]

search it there is a thousand threads about it

 

[MONSONwarrior Premium Member]

Ap15001d

 

[TheGDog 10+ year member]

Dude... yes... it is DEFINITELY your box that is the problem. I have a 1.8 cu. ft. box ported with like 36Hz and the port is 4" diameter and something like 12.5" long. I can't see a 2" port of ANY length doing more than making lots of what is called "chuffing" noise for you. (Noise made by air turbulence cause by the resistance being to high in that port for the amount of force of air that's being pushed thru it.

Subwoofer Enclosure Calculators, Fraction to Decimal, Parallel, Series, Port Length and Volume Calculators Has the calculators you'll need to properly figure out your boxes Internal volume... and the calculators you'll need to help you figure out the port diameter and length ( for round ports ) and another calculator in there to help you figure out slot ports as well.

I'm using a lesser amp than you... a HITRON HA-1000.1 (600 W RMS @ Ohm... supposedly) and it BOOOOOMS!!!

 

[Kibbe17 10+ year member]

Dude... yes... it is DEFINITELY your box that is the problem. I have a 1.8 cu. ft. box ported with like 36Hz and the port is 4" diameter and something like 12.5" long. I can't see a 2" port of ANY length doing more than making lots of what is called "chuffing" noise for you. (Noise made by air turbulence cause by the resistance being to high in that port for the amount of force of air that's being pushed thru it.
Subwoofer Enclosure Calculators, Fraction to Decimal, Parallel, Series, Port Length and Volume Calculators Has the calculators you'll need to properly figure out your boxes Internal volume... and the calculators you'll need to help you figure out the port diameter and length ( for round ports ) and another calculator in there to help you figure out slot ports as well.

I'm using a lesser amp than you... a HITRON HA-1000.1 (600 W RMS @ Ohm... supposedly) and it BOOOOOMS!!!

Really??? Thats great news if that is the case! then I can just drill a new hole.

Now when you say your system Boooms does it hit the realll lowwws? Because I got some test tones and played em and dont get me wrong my system HITS but it performs best at like 50hz and just wont seem to get into the lower tones.

Thanks for the help! and that website is great too.

 

[Scotty2Naughty 10+ year member]

Sounds like a problem with the box, the sub is dual 2, right? Are you running it at 4ohm or 1ohm?

 

[Kibbe17 10+ year member]

Sounds like a problem with the box, the sub is dual 2, right? Are you running it at 4ohm or 1ohm?

4ohm. Sorry it took so long to reply i never got the notification that i had another reply.

Also the sub only hits good with the gain and bass boost all the way up and bass turned up on the Head unit, but i know that thats terrible for my speakers.. somethings not adding up.. hope we can figure this out.

 

[TheGDog 10+ year member]

You need to go back into WinISD again and re-run it. BTW... when I had to redo the 3" port on my 10" sub box... I opted to instead go for 4 x 1.5" inner diameter tubes instead because when I ran the numbers for using 4 tubes in WinISD the "vent mach" (air speed in the port tubes) dropped down to a real nice LOW number (like .04 if I remember correctly) And the length of them ended-up being slightly less longer then when it was 1 single tube (since there's more surface area the air is travelling over I suppose).

The 4-tube solution got rid of my chuffing problem since that one 3" port had a high "vent mach" reading of .16 (which WinISD still shows as a green or acceptable number BTW. With the new ports I don't have chuffing until I try to blast a 20Hz Test Tone, and that's only because the driver is rated to 24Hz. At 25 Hz on up she comes alive!

---

Right in the manual for my 1243R 12" Dual 4 Ohm Type-R it states optimal vented as 1.75 cu. ft. with a 4" tube and it was almost 13" in length. Ain't no way in HELL a lil 2" x 2.75" port gonna sound right man.

 

[i2ain2thunder 10+ year member]

port is def too small for that sub hoovfer, My Type R s move a facking lot of air man.

 

[mast240 10+ year member]

Holy dead thread!