Alternator Mystery 10.00 Pay pal

[sleazebagger 10+ year member]

Ok, so the part that they sent you mentions a 6G. This is a later alternator style than the 3G that I mentioned above.
They said that green/red is the turn on wire. But that should be feeding the dash light from the alt, not the turn on for the alt.

The Yellow/white should be the turn on for the alt. This is the A or AS pin in the connector, opposite from the R/G on the connector. This A/AS is the same on the 3G alt as well.

BUT, that still does not explain why your stock alt turns on, but this one does not.

NOR does it explain why you have the current you need, but not the voltage. If the current is there, then the alt IS outputting juice. (Or you are slowly depleting the battery.)

Have you tried to ground the alt chassis with a separate ground line? Maybe you need that potentiometer to up the voltage level. (Though I'd be surprised if it can increase the voltage by more than 10% as is required here.)

The alt that I have is the next model up which I believe is a 4g model. The harness I linked was only for the purpose of showing what type of external regulator.

The oem harness has two wires, r/g left(alt turn on), org/grn right(sensor/meter) no middle wire.

The harness they sent me uses only the (alt turn on/ r/g wire). the middle wire is blk/wht(goes nowhere) and the right wire is yellow(goes to potentiometer and terminal post.

We tested every terminal and wire to find the right one and it seemed to be correct.

Its either that... or for some reason the updated internal regulator is not allowing this alt to produce the proper amount of voltage. It's definitely producing current...WTF

 

[sleazebagger 10+ year member]

send it back to mechman then and tell them to go fuqq a goat

good chance the same thing would happen again and I'd be telling another company to fug a goat

 

[sleazebagger 10+ year member]

That does explain it man. Alternators use an ignition wire to tell it to engage. Some also use a wire to monitor engine rpm so they don't turn on at too low of a rpm. I'm thinking this alternator is basically standing by. Sure it might put out 12.1v but that is technically off. I would make sure you connect the turn on wire in the harness to the turn on wire on the alt plug. Next, most alternators have a voltage sense wire. They use this to monitor their output and this is how vcm's work. If you show it a lower voltage (via a diode or resistor) than what it is actually putting out, it will up its voltage and compensate.

I connected a wire off the battery straight to the alt turn on wire. One thing I didn't try is also connecting the signal wire to the factory wire at the same time. hmmmmm

Maybe the potentiometer needs to be looped from the terminal plug to the alt sensor so I can regulate the voltage it reads. I think it wasn't kicking on because it was reading less then half a volt with the OEM harness and that wasn't enough to kick the mechman on and when i hit it with 12 it was to much of a signal

Nevermind all that^^^ turns out my friend tried these or similar variations.

I'm calling mechman and going to see if they can send me an exact wiring diagram of the internal regulator. Also have them double check to see which one they installed in mine

 

[bubbagumper6 5,000+ posts]

Answer my question. It doesn't make any sense that they were able to get 14V out of it on the bench, how did they have the other wires connected if at all?

 

[sleazebagger 10+ year member]

Figured it out.

Bad rectifier. Very rare with modle but when its on a dyno it has enough contact because of the mounting. Sending it back.

 

[Dirtrider4eva 10+ year member]

was going to say...alt had to be bad. after reading through all your wiring configurations and swapping between this and your stock one.

 

[Vossy 10+ year member]

now pay yourself

 

[infamous_e46 5,000+ posts]

probably has a bad rectifier
























































How to test a High Amperage Alternator

pay me

 

[sleazebagger 10+ year member]

pay me

nice edit bro

 

[infamous_e46 5,000+ posts]

nice edit bro

scammer ima go make a thread

 

[hispls 5,000+ posts]

***** you wasted a day on that. That being said. I use an outboard regulator and can say from experience if you don't have a very solid ground and battery connection to the regulator it will not function properly. #8 wire, short path, clean connection. Just saying in case it starts acting funny when you get the good one in.

 

[sleazebagger 10+ year member]

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BLsnjbOYi9g

 

[jeepintn 10+ year member]

looks like you got some excellent charging going on now //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/happydance.gif.a963168fea27d8453c3ec467ddcf9e1c.gif

 

[sleazebagger 10+ year member]

looks like you got some excellent charging going on now //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/happydance.gif.a963168fea27d8453c3ec467ddcf9e1c.gif

bout mutha fuggin time!!! u dont know what I have been through //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/crazy.gif.c13912c32de98515d3142759a824dae7.gif

 

[elancohen92 10+ year member]

probably has a bad rectifier
























































How to test a High Amperage Alternator

sounds like you have a bad rectum...