I posted replies to some forum threads last week and some were intersted to find out why or howI do my front to back power/ground configurations. It's seems that a lot of people are not familiar with this optional method, that with todays unibody cars might offer another solution.
I posted information regarding running parallel (not parallel grounds as in this article) but parallel cables (1/0 power and 2/0 ground) from the primary battery to the 2nd battery and instead of grounding to multiple chassis points (in my build’s case, 6), using a distro block to run all your grounds back through the 2/0 ground going back to the battery. Doubling the ground wire gauge or running two 1/0 grounds helps negate the need for a parallel ground as it is mentioned in this article, but this is just another option.
I initially learned (what I was suggesting) years ago when working on early model Corvettes (fiberglass body) and later on my Saturn (Pulse alloy - GTX for the quarter panels - Dow Plastics, polycarbonate and ABS (PC/ABS) and just carried it forward to my present builds. It has worked great for me and has all but eliminated ground loop issues, for me.
Here is another way, kind of a hybrid of what I do and what is the most common method, chassis grounding. This type of ground is called a “Parallel Ground” and it’s recommended by some pretty heavy hitters, notably Arc Audio, JL Audio to name a few. It incorprates both the chasis ground and extra, direct to battery ground.
Here is the article from ARC Audio that explains it pretty succinctly. Can’t have too much information, right?
Enjoy!
www.bestcaraudio.com
I posted information regarding running parallel (not parallel grounds as in this article) but parallel cables (1/0 power and 2/0 ground) from the primary battery to the 2nd battery and instead of grounding to multiple chassis points (in my build’s case, 6), using a distro block to run all your grounds back through the 2/0 ground going back to the battery. Doubling the ground wire gauge or running two 1/0 grounds helps negate the need for a parallel ground as it is mentioned in this article, but this is just another option.
I initially learned (what I was suggesting) years ago when working on early model Corvettes (fiberglass body) and later on my Saturn (Pulse alloy - GTX for the quarter panels - Dow Plastics, polycarbonate and ABS (PC/ABS) and just carried it forward to my present builds. It has worked great for me and has all but eliminated ground loop issues, for me.
Here is another way, kind of a hybrid of what I do and what is the most common method, chassis grounding. This type of ground is called a “Parallel Ground” and it’s recommended by some pretty heavy hitters, notably Arc Audio, JL Audio to name a few. It incorprates both the chasis ground and extra, direct to battery ground.
Here is the article from ARC Audio that explains it pretty succinctly. Can’t have too much information, right?
Enjoy!
Car Audio Myths – You Can’t Ground a Car Audio Amplifier to the Battery
Let’s clear up the confusion about the myth that you can’t ground a car audio amplifier directly to the battery in your vehicle.
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