Taramps smart 5 going into protect

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Metalfan038

CarAudio.com Newbie
I am aware that i need upgraded electrical to run this amp properly. But does anyone know what voltage sends the taramps smart 5 into protect? Mine goes to about 11.5 or so then goes protect. Doesnt pop any fuses and comes right back on. I know i need muxh better electrical. But i have had other amps drop into the 10s and never shut off. What voltage is low enough to send the smart 5 into protect if anyone knows? I will also be double checking my subs wiring for shorts and check my grounds too. It is currently at 1 ohm
 
I am aware that i need upgraded electrical to run this amp properly. But does anyone know what voltage sends the taramps smart 5 into protect? Mine goes to about 11.5 or so then goes protect. Doesnt pop any fuses and comes right back on. I know i need muxh better electrical. But i have had other amps drop into the 10s and never shut off. What voltage is low enough to send the smart 5 into protect if anyone knows? I will also be double checking my subs wiring for shorts and check my grounds too. It is currently at 1 ohm
It'll go into protect at low voltage...you really need to keep the voltage up on taramps amps

The one time my smart3 went into protect I was in the low 11's
 
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So what am i needing to increase voltage? High output alt? I have the big 3 done and 1 extra agm battery. My stock alt is 200 amps. I am looking at a 500 amp alt. Would that give the voltage needed?
It'll go into protect at low voltage...you really need to keep the voltage up on taramps amps

The one time my smart3 went into protect I was in the low 11's
 
So what am i needing to increase voltage? High output alt? I have the big 3 done and 1 extra agm battery. My stock alt is 200 amps. I am looking at a 500 amp alt. Would that give the voltage needed?
I got a 320a alternator and 110ah agm battery in the rear (on top of the 50ah under the hood) to keep voltage up...you might need more
 
Smart amp. If it can't draw enough amperage it will protect to save itself from destruction. The protection voltage is 9.5ish though.

I ran a 320 amp alt and 40ah of Yinlong lithium at 15.8 volts for my Smart Bass 5k.
 
This sounds like voltge drop issue or inadequate voltage on demand. Unless you intend to get even crazier with the wattage end of things, the 320A should be fine. The 5k is likley to pull around 360A at full throttle so you should be okay since you have the big 3 and a 2nd battery. If you have different batteries, types, then it is advisable that you isolate the 2nd one too, 500A isolaters are aroun $40-50 and are worth the investiment in by experience. Not sure if that matters here but always a good idea when the battery types front and rear are different types ie L/A up front and AGM for your audio. If your primary battery is pulling from the 2nd (for any number of reasons) the spare "juice" may not be there when you are cranking it up.

Amazon product ASIN B082HMDMLG
 
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How do you increase the voltage to the 15s? Is it the alt alone? Or combi of alt and battery? I read somewhere that a ho alt doesnt do anything extra at idle?
 
Also the amp cuts off at higher volume but just restarts itself. If it is actually going into protect..wouldnt i need to cycle the switch off and on to get it out? If so im starting to tbink its just cutting off then right back on? Like maybe a short on my subwoofer wires in the box? Either way im gonna pull and rewire to 4 ohms and check for shorts. Then see what its doing
 
So if the smart 5 is actually in protect mode. Does it have to be cycled off then back on to come out? Or would it just rstart itself on the spot? Thats what mines doing. I know i do t got enough electrical now im trying to see if its actually going into protect or just flat out shutti g down then back on?
 
The batteries are charged by the alt at a variable voltage/amperage rates depending on the type and RPM. The voltage is faily constant between 11-15V, depnding. You would need to consult the mfg to see what the current is at a given engine RPM for your alternator. Since it is fairly underpowered, it is working doubletime to keep up and may not be able to which also means that it will not last nearly as long as it normally would either.. I have asked a lot of these types of questions to a guy at Apex Alternaotrs, as I'm getting ready to order a 320 amp, small case, 6 phase hairpin(160-180 amps at idle) for $379. You could use one too or a 350 amp small case 6 phase hairpin $419, (200 amps at idle). What I was impressed by is the over the top support. Did'nt even ask but was givern advice on getting the next smaller belt due to the difference in the pully size which allows me to extract the most from the alt's performance. They don't assume I know what I'm talking about, they're the experts right? Feel free to email Nicholas Stark at apexalternators@gmail.com for educated answers to your alt options/needs relative to your vehicle. Powdercoating is $35 additional cost in any color, and no, I don't get a referal fee! Anyhow, it points to the fact that alt's work differently depnding on the need/type/pully/load ect. I'm guessing that your two batteries are different too. L/a to AGM not a big deal except when charging them indivdually should you need. If you are running L/A with Lithium Ion's, then an isolater is a must! It's not a bad idea in any case as It's easy to install an isoslater between the two which prevents the primary from draining the secondary if that should occure. This just ensures that the 2nd one is always good to go (unless there is something wrong with that bat, sepcifically). In a pinch, you can bypass (jump the gap) on the isolater to jump-start the vehicle should that ever be the need and you don't have jumper cables handy. I'm not 100% sure about the "cycling" thing on this specific amp, usually protection circuits are just timed, the circuit gets cut (is opened) for a certain amount of time and when it closes again you are good to go. When it senses that the voltage is too low/high, it will activate. The high volume is where you would see this in your situation as the amp is not getting what it needs to operate at the higher volume level, this triggers the protection circuit, any change above or below a specific range of what it needs will trigger the protection circuit. :)
 
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Yea runs just fine at 4 ohms full tilt. I didnt look at the voltage but the headlights arent even dimming at all. I now suspect i had a speaker wire that maybe was causing it kinda frayed out and close to the basket of sub. Im gonna leave at 4 till i score a ho alt. Thanks for the replies .
 
Lkley that you are taking out the 2nd battery on the times that you hit it hard and the alt can't give it back quick enough. I think the ho alt will do the trick - and an isolater, IMHO. ;)
 
You don't understand understand brazilian amps and how finicky they can be about voltage...everything you just said nonsense
 
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