Grounding

[spokey9]

So what's better to ground my amps...I got the ground for my rear battery going to the frame...is it better to run separate grounds for each amp or ground them at the negative terminal on the rear battery?

Just trying to avoid running unnecessary wire if it isn't gonna make a difference.

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[AnthonyO 10+ year member]

I’ve always grounded my amps at the battery when I had an extra battery.

 

[audiobaun 5,000+ posts]

I connect the Ground to the Frame and use a solid distro block to use 0 to the battery and use the other outlets for amps ect

 

[winkychevelle 10+ year member]

As long as the battery's ground size is equal ampacity accumulative to all the positive runs you can ground to the rear batt.

That's saying you have (2) 300amp drawing amps so 2 1/0 runs the grounds should be the same size 2 1/0 runs or a single 3/0 or 4/0

If you have 600amp of amp draw going to the amps you need to have 600amp of negative return capacity

Basically add up all the amp fuse ratings so the same wire in means the same wire out. Using the battery as a distribution point isn't a bad thing

 

[spokey9]

I got a kicker cxa360.4 that I need to ground...I think I'm leaving the sub amp grounded where it's at...since the amp is already mounted where i need it...so I'd be grounding less then 100 amps from the 4 channel amp...the Power and ground for the rear battery is run with 2/0 eb flex...but I also got a stetsom 250.2 I might be grounding there too...still figuring out the placement for it though...

 

[audiobaun 5,000+ posts]

I got a kicker cxa360.4 that I need to ground...I think I'm leaving the sub amp grounded where it's at...since the amp is already mounted where i need it...so I'd be grounding less then 100 amps from the 4 channel amp...the Power and ground for the rear battery is run with 2/0 eb flex...but I also got a stetsom 250.2 I might be grounding there too...still figuring out the placement for it though...

The 2/0 should also be the same ground as the supply for the second battery..Frame to battery for ground. You can use Brass Battery connection post with a wing nut to add the other two grounds with a ring terminal (I use Copper Lugs)easy enough without a multi solid ground block that can be bought Local at Orileys or Autozone even. Doesnt have to get expensive. Just battery post. Brass is soft and will bend and contour to the battery post,while the Wing nut give you options for additions

https://www.autozone.com/batteries-starting-and-charging/battery-terminal/p/duralast-marine-battery-terminals-2-pack/95967_0_0?spps.s=1585&cmpid=LIA:US:EN:AD:NL:1000000:BAC:8366688869&gclid=Cj0KCQjw7KqZBhCBARIsAI-fTKLRJpeCaMe7BXapBTnw_OTMZQ3LjfAH4nFkf3Z7ff75WL8dqz7UzacaArxwEALw_wcB&gclsrc=aw.ds

 

[spokey9]

The power run and the ground for the rear are both 2/0 eb flex...I grabbed terminals like that already and copper lugs...I gotta grab a bit more looming for a 2 spots on the power run that could possibly rub to protect the wire a bit more and some more heatshrink...if only I could buy more free time to work on it

The only reason I don't do a distro block to the frame is was a pia to get the one hole popped through and then grommets and sealed...there's just not enough room to work...so I'm not eager to do it again

 

[audiobaun 5,000+ posts]

The power run and the ground for the rear are both 2/0 eb flex...I grabbed terminals like that already and copper lugs...I gotta grab a bit more looming for a 2 spots on the power run that could possibly rub to protect the wire a bit more and some more heatshrink...if only I could buy more free time to work on it

The only reason I don't do a distro block to the frame is was a pia to get the one hole popped through and then grommets and sealed...there's just not enough room to work...so I'm not eager to do it again

I had a really hard time with my 1990 240sx. That had to have been the hardest car to wire up and install to date. The doors were something else