All new front speakers...what to get?

I really like the sound of Alpine Type R (SPR-17S) speakers. There is also a newer version, SPR-60C, which I haven't heard but both are priced the same. Compared to Infinity References (I had coaxial version), Alpines have overall darker midrange sound, with significantly more mid bass and much smoother tweeters. They did take a while to break-in, but overall the result was a very nice sound. When people shop for mid-priced components they're often worried that tweeters are too harsh/loud or that there is a lack of midbass. I personally can't accuse these Alpines of either one of these sins. And boy do they crank. They keep sounding good at pretty high volume. The only negative is that they do need a good amount of amplifier power IMO. 100watt of clean RMS power would be about the right amount.

If you go up to the next level, consider JL Audio C5 or Hybrid Audio Unity ($300-$400 price range). I own cheaper HAT Imagine speakers, and they are frequently recommended for those looking for a great $250 speaker, but beware that they work best in coaxial setup or active setup, because in stock passive setup the tweeter plays too loud. The unity should not have this issue supposedly.

 
Well right now i have very little midbass. I would like to keep all the speakers in the door instead of making kick panels because there is minimal footroom in a cobalt coupe as it is. Could i run a setup with a midbass driver, a midrange speaker, and a tweeter in each door?

 
If midbass is ur main concern, make sure your doors are deadened and sealed first. I had some of those speakers before and you can actually get decent midbass out of them (depending on your preference).

Also I saw u mentioned rrunnin a midbass, midrange, and tweeter. If u dont mind doin some cuttin u could make it happen. Gonna be limited by your budget though. Id start by improving tthe install (you'll need it whether ya change speakers or not)

 
Ok my plan is to deaden (similar to the tutorial on here)

Then get sone speakers.

So i should pass on the aura's mids but keep the dayton midbass?

 
If u choose. what I was saying was keep the Dayton midbass, aura midrange, and find a nice tweeter. (Keep in mind I have never heard any of the components ya choose so I can't comment on their SQ but id buy that Dayton midbass in a minute to try out personally) you could listen to some passive comp sets n buy ones u like, ditch the passive crossover and run active and then run active midbass, or keep the passive crossover and just run an active midbass. U have a few diff options. U could even get good midbass, mid n high from a good 2 way comp set , shoot or a coaxial for that matter. All in the install. Perfect that, then if u still dont like your sound, look into other drivers

 
Well right now i have very little midbass. I would like to keep all the speakers in the door instead of making kick panels because there is minimal footroom in a cobalt coupe as it is. Could i run a setup with a midbass driver, a midrange speaker, and a tweeter in each door?
Can you? Do you have the ability install all those speakers and the DSP/crossover capability to be able to use these speakers? 3-way crossovers are not cheap.. but if you're willing to spend so much, you could also look into nice 2-way speaker systems. One is HAT Unity ($350) and another is HAT Clarus (over $500). HAT Unity uses the HAT Imagine driver which has a decent amount of bass (it's still not clear to me if it's more than in cheaper Alpine Type-R, but it's definitely more musical) and HAT Clarus has even a more beefy woofer with more bass.. though based on what I have heard HAT Imagine/Unity bass is not that far away from Clarus midbass performance

 
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