after big 3, engine does not start >.>

Yes, the stock wiring is what I was referring to (Original Equipment Manufacturer). Were the stock wires just that? Just straight runs of wire for the connections? Sometimes they are branched off. When I have done the Big 3 I just run the larger wire along with the stock. Current follows the least path or resistance, so it will naturally go through the larger wire while the stock wire is still in tact.

 
ahh did not know that ^^6

shitt.. so what to do now? i was thinking in my head i have a bad engine block ground ( as i assumed that the negative for the starting motor comes from the engine ground... )

so i should go back and wire which wire back up to my batt? the alt one will not fit back on as it was an odd shape just for that. i could get one of the wires that goes to the negative ( which i just assumed was a engine ground ) but its stock

 
removing factory wiring= problem
:s :s :s :s

 

---------- Post added at 04:15 PM ---------- Previous post was at 04:15 PM ----------

 

which ones specifically because i think that the stock alt wire is fine

 
I would honestly start with removing all of the big 3 you have done and reconnect all of the original factory wiring (hopefully you still can). Then one piece at a time do the big 3. I'm not sure how else you could go about it besides this. If you have a multi-meter you could also check your connections to make sure they are good.

 
I had this same problem when I did my big 3 and it was because the terminals I used were painted. There was just enough voltage getting through to power up my lights but when I came to start the engine nothing happened. If the terminals you are using are painted, sand or grind them down and try that.

 
well if i blew a fuse it wouldn't do it at all would it? the starting motor makes a noise and the lights dim when i try but it just doesn't go
That sounds more like a dead battery than anything.. Double check you have your positives going to positive and negative going to negative.

If thats right, then if you crimped the wires.. make sure their good crimps and not loose. Soldering them is 10x better. Loose crappy battery connections will cause this too.

 
i re-wired all the stock back on and the big 3, it started, sounded different. but it smelled odd afterwards the car was on for maybe 15 seconds so i unhooked the battery.

wasn't a burning rubber smell ( as something melted.. ) but an oil burning smell, and yes i know i started a CAR but it wasn't normal.

 
That sounds more like a dead battery than anything
I agree. I know a lot more about working on a car than I do audio(which is why I'm lurking here). Couple things to check before buying a new one though. If it has the caps on top, make sure there's fluid in the battery(yes it won't start because of this) small flathead they pop right off. Get some purified water for it. And as simple as it sounds, make sure your terminals are bolted in tight enough, if they're loose, your car won't start, it'll do the dead battery click and that's it.
 
That sounds more like a dead battery than anything
I agree. I know a lot more about working on a car than I do audio(which is why I'm lurking here). Couple things to check before buying a new one though. If it has the caps on top, make sure there's fluid in the battery(yes it won't start because of this) small flathead they pop right off. Get some purified water for it. And as simple as it sounds, make sure your terminals are bolted in tight enough, if they're loose, your car won't start, it'll do the dead battery click and that's it.
Same here. Ive rebuilt more than a few engines and done all sorts of other repairs to numerous cars.. another hobby of mine.

We have a Jeep Grand Cherokee that would do exactly as he is describing, except randomly. 95% of the time the car was fine.. but once in a blue moon you would try to turn the key and get nothing. Or it would try to start, then knock off, then not let you restart.. gauges flickering and moving all over the place, interior lights dimming.. etc. Thought it was the ECU for a while, then I checked the battery terminals. They were shot.. when you had them tight as they would get you could literally wiggle the terminals around. Fixed that... ended up getting a new battery later from trying to crank it over so much. Once a car battery goes dead their never the same when you charge them back up.

My favorite terminals are marine terminals.. theyre cheap as crap, easily disconnect and are much much stronger. They will outlast your car more than likely.

They look like this.

10005034-27.jpg


Their what Ive used on all of our cars including mine.
 
That sounds more like a dead battery than anything
Same here. Ive rebuilt more than a few engines and done all sorts of other repairs to numerous cars.. another hobby of mine.

We have a Jeep Grand Cherokee that would do exactly as he is describing, except randomly. 95% of the time the car was fine.. but once in a blue moon you would try to turn the key and get nothing. Or it would try to start, then knock off, then not let you restart.. gauges flickering and moving all over the place, interior lights dimming.. etc. Thought it was the ECU for a while, then I checked the battery terminals. They were shot.. when you had them tight as they would get you could literally wiggle the terminals around. Fixed that... ended up getting a new battery later from trying to crank it over so much. Once a car battery goes dead their never the same when you charge them back up.

My favorite terminals are marine terminals.. theyre cheap as crap, easily disconnect and are much much stronger. They will outlast your car more than likely.

They look like this.

10005034-27.jpg


Their what Ive used on all of our cars including mine.

I haven't fully rebuilt an engine...yet. Kinda trying to do that now, but I'm a little nervous about the bottom end lol. May drop it off at my father's friend's place to do that, the rest I can do. I've always worked on my own cars since my first one. My father would tell me "these are the parts you need, these are the tools, go figure it out. If you can't, then I'll help you.". ****** at first but I'm glad he did it that way.

Nice tip on the marine terminals, I never thought of that!
 
when doing the big 3 I think it is best to leave the factory wiring and just add more wire.

that is how I did mine and it worked fine.

What I think happened for you is you said in another thread that you had 2 wires on the alt stock, one of those most likely fed into the under hood fuse box, removing that caused your probelm.

 
when doing the big 3 I think it is best to leave the factory wiring and just add more wire.that is how I did mine and it worked fine.

What I think happened for you is you said in another thread that you had 2 wires on the alt stock, one of those most likely fed into the under hood fuse box, removing that caused your probelm.
Exactly the reason why I do the same and leave the factory wiring in tact.

 
Yea man, just undo what you did until it starts to work, which is what you did. Not sure on the strange smell, make sure the wires aren't burning on an exhaust manifold or anything. And when you do the big 3, just run the wires along the stock wire, removing any chance of screwing things up with newer cars like you might have done.

 
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