Advice on Electrical for 5500 watts, please

[528hz 10+ year member]

But if you were powering it with just your alty(since your voltage never dropped down to the level of the batts), then it'd mean that you weren't drawing over 150 amps(including your 4 channel, lights, heat/ac, etc) for any consistant period of time..
And saying that the gain was nearly at 3/4 doesn't mean anything without knowing what you output voltage from the HU was, and what voltage the gain on the amp was actually set at.

But could that also mean that I had sufficient current feed from the batts and alt combined (my measurements were taken at idle)? Does the fact that the way the Batcaps discharge differently have any significant affect?

 

[RAM_Designs 5,000+ posts]

I had to have been close. I don't use the DMM anymore to set the gains, but I was close to 3/4 on the dial.
I figured I may need the HO alt, but I want that to be my absolute last resort.

I have a stock 160amp alt, HC2000 up front, and Batcap 2000 right by the amp in the back. I was running a SAZ-1500 at .5ohm, and The voltage would easily drop, but would hit a wall right at 12.8V, which is where my batteries would rest at normally.

 

[528hz 10+ year member]

I have a stock 160amp alt, HC2000 up front, and Batcap 2000 right by the amp in the back. I was running a SAZ-1500 at .5ohm, and The voltage would easily drop, but would hit a wall right at 12.8V, which is where my batteries would rest at normally.

Everyone of my batteries are within 1 foot of both my amps. Only the alt is up front.

Does that make a big difference?

 

[528hz 10+ year member]

But could that also mean that I had sufficient current feed from the batts and alt combined (my measurements were taken at idle)? Does the fact that the way the Batcaps discharge differently have any significant affect?

Everyone of my batteries are within 1 foot of both my amps. Only the alt is up front.
Does that make a big difference?

So can anyone else continue this with answers?

 

[TC2k15x2 10+ year member]

OK...I've been running my RD 5750.1 at 2 ohms= 3200 watts, and my highs amp is a Kicker 350.4.
Electrical: 150a alt, Batcap 2000, Batcap 800 and my stock Mercedes battery 600 cca.

I've never seen below 13.4v at full tilt with all this and I have zero dimming anywhere.

Now, do you guys think I will be ok running the amp @ 1 ohm, 5500 watts, with my: 150a alt, 2 Batcap 2000s, and my stock Merc battery? I think I would but...

holy shit post pics of your car setup bro.

 

[528hz 10+ year member]

I'll post pics up when you post some vids! LOL

Naw, I don't have any worth posting right now. I'm going to throw up the entire build log when I get everything in next weekend. I've got to redo the battery setup and deaden the spare tire pan. All I'm waiting for is my subs from Steve, and two 2000s.

This is in my CLK 430.

 

[stl_style 10+ year member]

So, if your pre amp outputs on the deck are 2 volts what should you set the gain at?

But if you were powering it with just your alty(since your voltage never dropped down to the level of the batts), then it'd mean that you weren't drawing over 150 amps(including your 4 channel, lights, heat/ac, etc) for any consistant period of time..
And saying that the gain was nearly at 3/4 doesn't mean anything without knowing what you output voltage from the HU was, and what voltage the gain on the amp was actually set at.

 

[528hz 10+ year member]

So, if your pre amp outputs on the deck are 2 volts what should you set the gain at?

sq. root (watts x impedence)= voltage on DMM.

I used to do this, but came to the conclusion that:

1. Using a 0 DB test tone (or even a -3 DB) gets you no where unless your strictly competing because most music is recorded at 5.6-6 DB.

2. It's never loud enough when I set it with the DMM

//content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/biggrin.gif.d71a5d36fcbab170f2364c9f2e3946cb.gif I prefer to use my ear, and it works great.

 

[stl_style 10+ year member]

sq. root (watts x impedence)= voltage on DMM.
I used to do this, but came to the conclusion that:

1. Using a 0 DB test tone (or even a -3 DB) gets you no where unless your strictly competing because most music is recorded at 5.6-6 DB.

2. It's never loud enough when I set it with the DMM

//content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/biggrin.gif.d71a5d36fcbab170f2364c9f2e3946cb.gif I prefer to use my ear, and it works great.

Me too,//content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/laugh.gif.48439b2acf2cfca21620f01e7f77d1e4.gif

 

[stl_style 10+ year member]

Sorry to thread jack, but I just confirmed that my charger indeed has a stock 160amp alt. I'm currently running 1 T20001BD @ a lil over 1 ohm. My lights don't dim much, but voltage does drop to batts resting voltage. I want to hook up my other T20001BD. I have a durlast gold in the trunk and my stock batt is also in the trunk. I was just about to order the alt when I came across this thread. Do I need the HO Alt or would getting 3 batcap 2000's and 2 runs of 2/0 work. Don't want to spend, if I don't have to. Oh yeah, my duralast is hooked up to the stock bat, haven't hooked it up to the alt yet, your thoughts?

 

[mazda6i07 10+ year member]

But could that also mean that I had sufficient current feed from the batts and alt combined (my measurements were taken at idle)? Does the fact that the way the Batcaps discharge differently have any significant affect?

I also have the same question. I have a Stinger Sp1700 and an Spv70. Is there anything bad about the difference in the discharge rates? Will i have any issues?

 

[loopkiller 10+ year member]

Sorry to thread jack, but I just confirmed that my charger indeed has a stock 160amp alt. I'm currently running 1 T20001BD @ a lil over 1 ohm. My lights don't dim much, but voltage does drop to batts resting voltage. I want to hook up my other T20001BD. I have a durlast gold in the trunk and my stock batt is also in the trunk. I was just about to order the alt when I came across this thread. Do I need the HO Alt or would getting 3 batcap 2000's and 2 runs of 2/0 work. Don't want to spend, if I don't have to. Oh yeah, my duralast is hooked up to the stock bat, haven't hooked it up to the alt yet, your thoughts?

If your stock battery is connected to your alt, and your second battery is connected to the stock battery, don't you think that your second battery IS connected to your alt?

 

[stl_style 10+ year member]

If your stock battery is connected to your alt, and your second battery is connected to the stock battery, don't you think that your second battery IS connected to your alt?

Of course, what I was trying to say is, I don't have any more runs of wire connecting my added batt. Is that all the help you can spare, very indepth question?

 

[528hz 10+ year member]

I also have the same question. I have a Stinger Sp1700 and an Spv70. Is there anything bad about the difference in the discharge rates? Will i have any issues?

I would really like someone to answer this question.

One of the main reasons I went with the Batcaps is because of the quick discharging bursts making it work like a capacitor, but with it's own power supply to feed. I think this makes a significant difference to where your alt. may not need to work as hard to keep up with the draw.

I could be wrong, but no one has said different yet.

 

[528hz 10+ year member]