Slayer16102
CarAudio.com Recruit
- 34
Setup:
Pioneer 6800BS reciever 50wx4
Pioneer 6.5" TS or AS Speakers in doors
Kenwood K-9106D Amplifier 1000wx1 at 2 ohms RMS/ 2000 Peak
Kenwood K-9106D has (3) 40 Amp fuses on it, so the amp pulls 60 Amps out of the full 110 Amps.
1 Subwoofer Rockford fosgate (R | 2) 2ohm shallow dvc 250 RMS/500 Peak
Power wire w/ 200A Monster fuse.
Car:
2001 Chevrolet Corvette Z06.
Battery Ever Start MAXX 75N 700 CCA
Alternator GM-110 Amps (K63), Valeo IR & IF
Tests:
With no 200A fuse active in the system the car shows at 12.8-12.9v when the car isn't running. With the car running its does 14.28v consistently without any interruption.
Startup of the vehicle is fast and correct. No rough idle or slow startup.
I tested the battery completely outside of the car with a digital multimeter it read12.82v and it stayed at 12.82v
With the 200A fuse active in the system and amp hooked up the car shows12.2v with the car not running and 13.3v with the car running (Max alternator output according to DIC is 13.5, 13.6) A digital multimeter placed on the battery confirms this is exactly what the car is getting. So its losing alot of voltage as soon as I plug up the amp.
Startup of the vehicle is slow or rough. Voltage drops on DIC when I watch, car startup sometimes shows 11.2v or 12.2v
If my math is correct here
14.4v x 110 Amps = 1548
1584 / 2 = 792w
So if this is right the alternator should be able run anything up to 792w, so what do you think is happening and what can I do to fix it?
I can't do a high output alternator on my car, because my DIC computer requires (K63) VALEO IR & IF. Any alternator without this would give my car all kinds of problems. A high output alternator is not possible for me due to the way my car works and what components the alternator requires for my DIC to read it properly.
Testing revealed that the alternator charges the car fine without the 200A fuse connected and testing revealed that the battery holds charge without dropping at all, when I tested it outside of the car with a multimeter. I am only pushing 250w RMS on my amp. The voltage supplied is only 22.36v. According to my math 792 watts should be okay for the alternator to properly charge the system while using 50% of the total alternator amperage. What gives????
The audio system has drained 3 batteries and 2 alternators over the course of 7 years with only 250w | 22.36v being supplied to the amp. 12.2v starts the car very rough and makes its startup idle run really rough. When I had the gain on my amp a little bit higher than 22.36v the lights would dim when the bass hit or when I pressed a button on the power doors the lights would dim while i was pressing or holding any button on the power windows or power door locks. Also the power windows would fail to roll down sometimes and other lights would pop up on my DIC.
Pioneer 6800BS reciever 50wx4
Pioneer 6.5" TS or AS Speakers in doors
Kenwood K-9106D Amplifier 1000wx1 at 2 ohms RMS/ 2000 Peak
Kenwood K-9106D has (3) 40 Amp fuses on it, so the amp pulls 60 Amps out of the full 110 Amps.
1 Subwoofer Rockford fosgate (R | 2) 2ohm shallow dvc 250 RMS/500 Peak
Power wire w/ 200A Monster fuse.
Car:
2001 Chevrolet Corvette Z06.
Battery Ever Start MAXX 75N 700 CCA
Alternator GM-110 Amps (K63), Valeo IR & IF
Tests:
With no 200A fuse active in the system the car shows at 12.8-12.9v when the car isn't running. With the car running its does 14.28v consistently without any interruption.
Startup of the vehicle is fast and correct. No rough idle or slow startup.
I tested the battery completely outside of the car with a digital multimeter it read12.82v and it stayed at 12.82v
With the 200A fuse active in the system and amp hooked up the car shows12.2v with the car not running and 13.3v with the car running (Max alternator output according to DIC is 13.5, 13.6) A digital multimeter placed on the battery confirms this is exactly what the car is getting. So its losing alot of voltage as soon as I plug up the amp.
Startup of the vehicle is slow or rough. Voltage drops on DIC when I watch, car startup sometimes shows 11.2v or 12.2v
If my math is correct here
14.4v x 110 Amps = 1548
1584 / 2 = 792w
So if this is right the alternator should be able run anything up to 792w, so what do you think is happening and what can I do to fix it?
I can't do a high output alternator on my car, because my DIC computer requires (K63) VALEO IR & IF. Any alternator without this would give my car all kinds of problems. A high output alternator is not possible for me due to the way my car works and what components the alternator requires for my DIC to read it properly.
Testing revealed that the alternator charges the car fine without the 200A fuse connected and testing revealed that the battery holds charge without dropping at all, when I tested it outside of the car with a multimeter. I am only pushing 250w RMS on my amp. The voltage supplied is only 22.36v. According to my math 792 watts should be okay for the alternator to properly charge the system while using 50% of the total alternator amperage. What gives????
The audio system has drained 3 batteries and 2 alternators over the course of 7 years with only 250w | 22.36v being supplied to the amp. 12.2v starts the car very rough and makes its startup idle run really rough. When I had the gain on my amp a little bit higher than 22.36v the lights would dim when the bass hit or when I pressed a button on the power doors the lights would dim while i was pressing or holding any button on the power windows or power door locks. Also the power windows would fail to roll down sometimes and other lights would pop up on my DIC.
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