Active?

RebelDogg
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I just purchased a Premier DEH-P980BT on E-Bay for $369 after shipping.

I was going back and forth between the 800PRS and the 980BT. Now I'm hearing people bash the 980 because it can't "go active" like the 880. I think it has something to do with the crossover, but I don't know what.

I feel like I should be kicking myself for being sucked in by the pretty screen on the 980, but I was. so...

Is it that big of a sq difference? What is "going active?" I compared the two HU's before I bought them and they seemed pretty much the same except for the L/R Eq on the 880. I didn't really know what that was, but I didn't think it would make a huge difference. I'm not setting up the most killer of systems. I just want good sound. Did I F up?

I'm upgrading from a DEH-P580MP. Guy at the install shop recommended the DEH-800PRS. I figured the 980BT was just the next step up... I **** at shopping.

 
"Active" is the opposite of passive, and it is directed at component speaker installation.

Passive setups utilize an external crossover which is installed between the amplifier and speakers. It depicts which frequencies each speaker sees AFTER amplification, which can result in lower SQ and gives less room for tweaking. These setups require a 2-channel amplifier.

Active setups require a 4-channel amplifier, as you wire each speaker (both tweeters and both woofers) to their own channel. The signal needs to be crossed over via an external crossover or via your HU (the main reason for your post.) You need to be able to cross the tweeter to only play (as an example) above 2.5Khz. You also need to bandpass the mid to play (also, just an example) below 2.5Khz and above 100hz. (Basically, you cross the mid at the same point your sub is low-passed at.) The crossing over takes place BEFORE amplification, which helps with SQ and leaves more room for tweaking.

Sorry for the long-winded answer, but I would rather explain the whole deal than to just give a one-sentence answer. Explanation FTW!

 
"Active" is the opposite of passive, and it is directed at component speaker installation. Passive setups utilize an external crossover which is installed between the amplifier and speakers. It depicts which frequencies each speaker sees AFTER amplification, which can result in lower SQ and gives less room for tweaking. These setups require a 2-channel amplifier.

Active setups require a 4-channel amplifier, as you wire each speaker (both tweeters and both woofers) to their own channel. The signal needs to be crossed over via an external crossover or via your HU (the main reason for your post.) You need to be able to cross the tweeter to only play (as an example) above 2.5Khz. You also need to bandpass the mid to play (also, just an example) below 2.5Khz and above 100hz. (Basically, you cross the mid at the same point your sub is low-passed at.) The crossing over takes place BEFORE amplification, which helps with SQ and leaves more room for tweaking.

Sorry for the long-winded answer, but I would rather explain the whole deal than to just give a one-sentence answer. Explanation FTW!
i never quite knew what going active was, but your explanation is VERY good man. Thanks!

 
Thanks, man. Thats what I wanted to know. Guess I should have gotten the 800PRS. But then again, it's going to be pretty killer having the full color screen and the bluetooth functions.

Now I need a cell phone with blue tooth. I was feeling fancy when I got this new fancy cell phone with a color display and custom ringtone... doggon newfangled gadgets...

 
You could always sell it, then buy what you really want. The popular HU on here right now is the Pioneer Premier 880PRS. I will be picking one of these up this summer, for my next setup. Active capability, iPod control, all around nice HU. Check them out!

 
Well, I think I'll stick with the 980BT. Hell, it hasn't even shipped yet. Just ordered it Thursday. Probably won't ship out till Tuesday because of the holiday.

The active crossover thing sounds badass, but I think I probably won't be dealing high end enough to get much difference from it. If I get you right, I'd end up needing a 4-channel just for my two front door speakers (componants) and then two more channels for the rear doors. I'd probably not end up doing that.

I'll just be happy I get the pretty pictures... to look at while I'm driving... and crash into small children in the park...

 
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RebelDogg

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