Active Sub wont turn on help!


ads24000

CarAudio.com Newbie
Jun 2, 2020
1
0
Cumbria
Hi,

I have an edge EDB12A.

Power lead connected to + battery terminal.

Earth connected to - battery terminal.

LOC/RCA adapter connected to correct rear speaker wires. I have not connected the 5th wire (earth) to an earthing point.

Now, when I finally go terminate the remote turn on wire (which is tapped into my 12v+ at the head unit) at the amp, nothing happens.

If I touch tap the amp end of the remote wire on the earth terminal it creates a spark. If i tap it against certain parts of the amps metal body, the PROTECT red light comes on.

However, when I connect my remote turn on wire into its terminal on the amp, the green light will not turn on and music wont play through the amp.

Any ideas?

Obviously seems like a power issue. I need to check fuses but I don't see how they could have blown. Is it maybe because I have earthed the amp at the (-) battery terminal?

Thanks,

Adam.
 

Lasherž

CarAudio.com Veteran
Apr 27, 2020
557
110
United States
Hi,

I have an edge EDB12A.

Power lead connected to + battery terminal.

Earth connected to - battery terminal.

LOC/RCA adapter connected to correct rear speaker wires. I have not connected the 5th wire (earth) to an earthing point.

Now, when I finally go terminate the remote turn on wire (which is tapped into my 12v+ at the head unit) at the amp, nothing happens.

If I touch tap the amp end of the remote wire on the earth terminal it creates a spark. If i tap it against certain parts of the amps metal body, the PROTECT red light comes on.

However, when I connect my remote turn on wire into its terminal on the amp, the green light will not turn on and music wont play through the amp.

Any ideas?

Obviously seems like a power issue. I need to check fuses but I don't see how they could have blown. Is it maybe because I have earthed the amp at the (-) battery terminal?

Thanks,

Adam.
It's not a good idea to earth the amp at the negative terminal due to fusing, the positive cable should always be significantly longer than the negative. Provided you have a nice beefy ground wire going from your battery to a frame or engine bolt you have no need for that anyways.

That aside, I don't think that would cause the issue, it's more for safety concerns. It seems like you're already thinking correctly about the next step, check the fuses. The signal on can power the protect light, but there's no indication that I've seen from what you've said that the positive rail is being fed from the positive cable. It could be an open circuit inside the amp or more likely it could be a fuse. That's my best guess at this time.
 

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