Active setup how powerful of amp?

[Danometal 10+ year member]

So, NVX has a clone of the PPI Phantom.

Take this pic:

Picture 3 of 8 for Precision Power PPI P900.4

And, flip it upside down, and you get this pic of the NVX:

Picture 3 of 7 for NVX JAD800.4

NVX wants moar monies!!

Edit: The power/ground/fuse/speaker wire sides are a little different, but still...

 

[Danometal 10+ year member]

And, dang you all!! Now I want a tiny Class D beast 4 channel. Shat!!

 

[TheUnderFighter 10+ year member]

So, NVX has a clone of the PPI Phantom.
Take this pic:

Picture 3 of 8 for Precision Power PPI P900.4

And, flip it upside down, and you get this pic of the NVX:

Picture 3 of 7 for NVX JAD800.4

NVX wants moar monies!!

Edit: The power/ground/fuse/speaker wire sides are a little different, but still...

.....wut? I was at least expecting to see some retarded board comparison pic or something... but no... you actually just looked at the control side of an amp, and saw they were similar to another amp.... and thus you claim they are exact replicas? wtf?

 

[jockhater2 10+ year member]

I am trying running an active setup for the first time with one set of DLS up6i components I just bought along with a Pioneer Prs 80 Head Unit and I need a 4ch amp. (Sub and amp for sub are already taken care of)
The UP6i speakers are rated at 150rms / 180max 4ohms.

I know the tweeter is rated at 50rms / 80max 4ohms (per the manual on DLS website) and I cant find specs for the mid woofer but a DLS rep told me they run at 150rms (doesnt sound correct)?

What rms ratings should I be looking for for an amplifier to run these active? My understanding is that I could run 100w rmsx4 amp and turn down the gains for the tweeters to properly run these.

Will this be enough Power? Could I go with more power, say 125x4 safely?

I appreciate any help you guys can give me!

Audison LRx 4.1k

Audison LRX 4 1K | eBay

 

[TitoThePirate 10+ year member]

this thread was too good not to log on for. you're an idiot. stop breathing.

 

[Danometal 10+ year member]

I didn't say exact replica. I'll concede that, if you were to dissect the semantics as implied by "clone," then you could respond as though I said "exact replica." I'm sure you saw my edit at the bottom immediately after I posted my comment which admitted differences, but whatever. It's all just a cool story.

You can tell at least the control board is the same and flipped upside down. I've seen threads on Diyma discussing how the PPI is essentially the same as a Polk Audio PA D4000.4. And, yes, that includes internal boards. I'm not interested enough to actually search up the pics. It's easier to just troll and type.

Compare all 3. Same little rails that pisses people off trying to access the screws, same control boards, size, yada yada:

Link for Polk:

Polk Audio PA D4000.4 (PAD4000.4) 800W RMS 4-Channel Car Amplifier

 

[RAM_Designs 5,000+ posts]

This thread brings the lulz.

 

[gocards]

I drive a car with a large battery and relatively large alternator so I dont think that power will be an issue between the two choices. (My Sub amp is a class D). I also have enough space to squeese in the two soundstreams into the trunk.

Efficiency aside and space aside, will the two A/B Soundstream amps sound better than the class D PPI? The two Soundstreams have a THD of .03% and there would not be a crosstalk issue which apparantly may be an issue with the PPI. The PPI has a THD of .55%

PASMAG | PERFORMANCE AUTO AND SOUND - Precision Power P900.4 Amplifier

I want to get the PPI but I dont want to put money into an amp and be unhappy with the sound because it has crosstalk in the tweeter channels or if the alternative would sound cleaner for the same price.

 

[trumpet 5,000+ posts]

Efficiency aside and space aside, will the two A/B Soundstream amps sound better than the class D PPI? The two Soundstreams have a THD of .03% and there would not be a crosstalk issue which apparantly may be an issue with the PPI. The PPI has a THD of .55%

PASMAG | PERFORMANCE AUTO AND SOUND - Precision Power P900.4 Amplifier

I want to get the PPI but I dont want to put money into an amp and be unhappy with the sound because it has crosstalk in the tweeter channels or if the alternative would sound cleaner for the same price.

Both the THD and crosstalk specs are well within the limits of audibility to where you can't notice it. The threshold for crosstalk is roughly 30 dB, so if anything it's marginal but still inaudible. If you look at the graph of the power output test on the PASMAG review the THD is below 0.05% until well past 100W. Most of the time your amp will operate at roughly 5-10% of the rated output with music playing at a "normal" level. Even if you crank it up all day every day it will get painfully loud and still sound good. There are many, many people who have or have used the P900.4 to great satisfaction. I ran mine for a year before switching recently to 2 tiny 4-channel amps that fit in the same space. I sold it within a few hours of listing it.

 

[TaylorFade 10+ year member]

Both the THD and crosstalk specs are well within the limits of audibility to where you can't notice it. The threshold for crosstalk is roughly 30 dB, so if anything it's marginal but still inaudible. If you look at the graph of the power output test on the PASMAG review the THD is below 0.05% until well past 100W. Most of the time your amp will operate at roughly 5-10% of the rated output with music playing at a "normal" level. Even if you crank it up all day every day it will get painfully loud and still sound good. There are many, many people who have or have used the P900.4 to great satisfaction. I ran mine for a year before switching recently to 2 tiny 4-channel amps that fit in the same space. I sold it within a few hours of listing it.

That. Right there. I don't get why people think they need 100+ watts to their tweets when they will very rarely use more than like 15 friggin watts.

And I honestly can't believe crosstalk is a concern when shopping for

 

[Roland 10+ year member]

You can run tweeters on a P900.4 or similar amplifier. The gain adjustment is one way to turn down the levels to match your woofers, plus your head unit or processor may have a level adjustment in addition to EQ.

Yeah it does have that control.

min. 4:20 on this video shows...

!These videos (series) by Pioneer on how to use you HU are great. Especially for old non tech guys like me.

Im hooking up my 80PRS with a PPI 900.4 on some RF T2652-S component speakers this weekend.

 

[thorshammer1 10+ year member]

Personally I would rather have a large ab 4 channel. The bigger the better lol Fact is 60 watts used off a large amp is by far much more efficient and clean than 60 watts out of a 70w amp. When I decided to do an sq build I went with 2 175.4's, 1 2.0k, focal 3 ways in front, mild rear fill with hertz mille midbass, 80prs, and the fosgate 360.3 and just to prove a few things I'm using an m2 lvl 5 15 with full cf cone and cap lol

Things I like to look at are signal to noise ratio ( I like to see 100 or higher), and dampening factor (200+).

Anyway.... Big amp using less watts will always be cleaner and more efficient than small amp using all of its power.