1 - use the harness power, you don't want it on your audio circuit, if a thief goes to steal your shit and shorts it out, the alarm dies. So grab at the ignition harness
b - I find the best way to tap +12V at the ignition is to solder one 14 or 12 gauge wire into the main feed, then solder all wires that need 12 v+ to the other end.
c - my information says that the sunfire does have a 2nd ignition:
Second Ignition white + ignition harness
2. You will need a relay - hook up to trigger it looks like the blue/white wire in the H3 harness is programmable to turn it on 10 seconds after the remote start enables. You will need to test the defrost switch to figure out how to wire, sometimes a pulse to it will enable, and sometimes you need to send constant voltage to it to keep it activated, all depends.
3. you need the negative output when activated, I think it is a blue wire in a smaller harness.
4. I would connect the domelight supervision, it is an output to the domelight so when you disarm, it turns it on. you can diode isolate this from the door trigger circuit so they work independantly, but go to the same two door trigger wires.
5. the armed output can be used to run additional LED's or act as a trigger to a horn honk relay (activation side).
b - usually used for trunk release, when you hold one of the buttons down for 2 sec or more, this wire activates.
GOOD LUCK!
b - I find the best way to tap +12V at the ignition is to solder one 14 or 12 gauge wire into the main feed, then solder all wires that need 12 v+ to the other end.
c - my information says that the sunfire does have a 2nd ignition:
Second Ignition white + ignition harness
2. You will need a relay - hook up to trigger it looks like the blue/white wire in the H3 harness is programmable to turn it on 10 seconds after the remote start enables. You will need to test the defrost switch to figure out how to wire, sometimes a pulse to it will enable, and sometimes you need to send constant voltage to it to keep it activated, all depends.
3. you need the negative output when activated, I think it is a blue wire in a smaller harness.
4. I would connect the domelight supervision, it is an output to the domelight so when you disarm, it turns it on. you can diode isolate this from the door trigger circuit so they work independantly, but go to the same two door trigger wires.
5. the armed output can be used to run additional LED's or act as a trigger to a horn honk relay (activation side).
b - usually used for trunk release, when you hold one of the buttons down for 2 sec or more, this wire activates.
GOOD LUCK!
- Thread Starter
- #3
thanks for the help. still not sure about how to wire the dome light. everything else I got. bulldog has some nice pics. have my harness all ready to go. i'll just run the dome light next to the door triggers to fix later. (or while i'm working.)
THUNDERBIRD
10+ year member
CarAudio.com Veteran
what i do with the 3 power wires on the relay pack is cut 2 in half and then slice a section out of the third and solder them on there. but what starkfu said do that.
- Thread Starter
- #5
ahh, well, I started cutting. since the instructions said the 3rd wire was opitional, and their were 2 wires under there for power I just used 2.
I spliced the 2 power to the 2 powers in the ignition.the starter I cut and connected per instrustions.
then spliced in the ignitation and accy wires. the past lock was easier to install since there was a tad more room to work with those.
It was getting late so I just quite after that.
I did wire the other brain power wires and igniation to the relay pack. Figured why tap more sources then needed.
----------------------------
it was getting late, dark, and I was getting worn out, so took a break and will finish today.
------
Still not very clear as to how the dome light should be hooked up.
right now I hooked up 2 diodes to the door trigger wire. will connect one to the drivers side door, one to the passangers door.
don't know where along that to connect the dome light.
the defog wire, just completely unsure of how to hook up.
I spliced the 2 power to the 2 powers in the ignition.the starter I cut and connected per instrustions.
then spliced in the ignitation and accy wires. the past lock was easier to install since there was a tad more room to work with those.
It was getting late so I just quite after that.
I did wire the other brain power wires and igniation to the relay pack. Figured why tap more sources then needed.
----------------------------
it was getting late, dark, and I was getting worn out, so took a break and will finish today.
------
Still not very clear as to how the dome light should be hooked up.
right now I hooked up 2 diodes to the door trigger wire. will connect one to the drivers side door, one to the passangers door.
don't know where along that to connect the dome light.
the defog wire, just completely unsure of how to hook up.
just connect the domelight supervision (via relay) to one of the door inputs on the car side of the diode you installed. This will simulate the door opening, but will not mess with the alarm as it is triggered by arm and disarm - has to go after diode or no output will reach circuit.
the defrost wire you are going to need to test the factory switch to see how it sends power back. so measure the wires at the switch before and after pressing, This will test for constant output from switch type circuit, if no difference, then measure while pressing (in case it just sends a momentary signal to a relay to activate - this is also the much easier circuit to deal with.
the defrost wire you are going to need to test the factory switch to see how it sends power back. so measure the wires at the switch before and after pressing, This will test for constant output from switch type circuit, if no difference, then measure while pressing (in case it just sends a momentary signal to a relay to activate - this is also the much easier circuit to deal with.
woops - double post
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