A Few problems I need help with

pioneerisloud
10+ year member

Junior Member
Alright, here's the information:

1991 Buick Regal

All stock radio

600w Alpine V-Power mono block

Pioneer Premier 2000SPL in an Alpine Type R slot ported box (custom made, but off the Alpine directions)

Problems:

  1. Lights dim (duh), but BADLY. They didn't dim before when I had both of my 12's running at a 4ohm load with the gain up MUCH higher???
  2. Amplifier just dies suddenly??? It requires me to turn it off, and back on again. This mainly happens on the higher frequencies (roughly 60-80Hz).
  3. Fuses keep popping under the hood on my amp wire (I know how to fix that one).
  4. The sub keeps bottoming out at roughly 20Hz and or below. Don't really understand why. I've NEVER had this problem before, but I've always ran sealed boxes??


Possible Solutions I've thought of myself:

  1. Put in some more cheapo batteries in the trunk. But what size fuse is acceptable for a charging wire?
  2. Don't understand why the amp keeps shutting itself off (into safe mode).
  3. The fuses...well I need to replace the fuse holder to accept bigger fuses (currently using ATC fuses, 8ga kit). This would also be solved when running more batteries.
  4. And I still don't understand why the sub is bottoming out. I'm still underpowering it??


EDIT:

Here's a link to the sub and box in question. The amp is hiding behind the box.

 
Low voltage, amp might go into a protect mode because of this. It would obviously cause bad dimming too. Youre probably grounding out somewhere or have some sort of short within the wiring causing the fuse to blow. Check it all again. Subsonic filter will stop the sub from bottoming out. Try a batcap or test out a new battery up front, it may be worn out.

 
You weren't getting dimming at a 4 ohm load because a it's more efficent than a 2 or 1 ohm load.

The amp is pulling too much current from the battery, and making the fuse pop. What size fuse are you using that keeps popping and what's the combined fuse value of your amp(s)?

Turn your gain down, the sub is seeing too much power, and is going beyond it's mechanical limit. Power handling goes up a little when you have it in a sealed box.

The fuse for the chraging wire should be fused at what the wire is rated at. You're trying to protect the wire by fusing it, so it wou'nt get damaged and possibly start a fire.

The amp is shutting it self off because your voltage is probably dropping too much, or you're clipping the signal, turn your gains down so it doesn't clip.

 
Low voltage, amp might go into a protect mode because of this. It would obviously cause bad dimming too. Youre probably grounding out somewhere or have some sort of short within the wiring causing the fuse to blow. Check it all again. Subsonic filter will stop the sub from bottoming out. Try a batcap or test out a new battery up front, it may be worn out.
Well my stock battery is I think 300a or something like that. So I know my battery is pretty weak. There's no shorts or grounds anywhere. It all works just fine with a 4ohm load. I just took the second sub out yesterday. This all started happening when I started going for a 2ohm load (single sub).

So would a couple of extra cheapo batteries in the trunk fix the problem? If so, what's a decent enough size fuse for a charging wire (8 gauge)?

And how do I get a subsonic filter? I know what it does and everything, but how exactly does one get one, and install it?

 
You weren't getting dimming at a 4 ohm load because a it's more efficent than a 2 or 1 ohm load.
The amp is pulling too much current from the battery, and making the fuse pop. What size fuse are you using that keeps popping and what's the combined fuse value of your amp(s)?

Turn your gain down, the sub is seeing too much power, and is going beyond it's mechanical limit. Power handling goes up a little when you have it in a sealed box.

The fuse for the chraging wire should be fused at what the wire is rated at. You're trying to protect the wire by fusing it, so it wou'nt get damaged and possibly start a fire.

The amp is shutting it self off because your voltage is probably dropping too much, or you're clipping the signal, turn your gains down so it doesn't clip.
I was using 30a fuses up front (ATC style). I just switched to a 40a fuse today....it hasn't popped yet. The 30's were popping about once a mile or so while driving, lol. I know, I need to fix that one.

The sub works 100% just fine. Its just when it hits subsonic frequencies (20Hz I THINK is what does it). I'm sure you've heard the song "Bassotronics - Bass, I Love You". It bottoms out ONCE in the very beginning of that song. That's the only time it bottoms out. If I just listen to everyday normal music (not bass tests), then its fine.

So would a 40a fuse be sufficient to charge a couple of extra cheap batteries in the trunk? Along with an 8 gauge kit of course.

 
So I need 125 - 200a fuse, for just a 600w amplifier? Something doesn't seem right because when I ran 6 MTX 1501D's, I only needed a single 150a fuse under the hood. I'm so lost, lol. It's obvious I haven't actually installed anything for quite some time.

And I also added a link to my original post of the sub and box in question. The link goes to this site in the photo gallery.

 
Again though, I'm confused. 8 gauge wire was plenty (with a 25a fuse mind you) when running at 4 ohms. I'm pretty sure this isn't really a wire problem, more or less a battery problem. Am I wrong? If I go up to a 4 gauge kit, my battery still won't be able to keep up with the current draw. If anything it'll be worse because the amplifier won't be AS STARVED for power as it is now....so it'll be drawing even more. I think that'll solve the fuse popping, but that's not my main issue. Its the fact that my lights are dimming to the point where they almost shut off, and my amplifier keeps kicking itself into safe mode, even though I KNOW that I should be within what its rated for.

 
Id ask what your alt is, but Ive never seen a 600w amp rob as much power as you say.

If your batt isnt charging, fix that and get an alt. If you think its charging sufficiently and the alt can charge a 2nd, get a 2nd battery. A small kinetic, powermaster or batcap

 
lol what? For you I get a 50a fuse up front with 4g wire and a 40a fuse before the amp... check your input numbers again. (with 80% efficiency, that info I dont know about your app)
Lol, sorry about that. I just clicked the link and assumed it kept the numbers that I was supposed to see for my install.

So if it only requires a 40a fuse before the amp, why won't a 40a fuse be enough under the hood too? And why would I need 4 gauge wire, when 8 gauge can handle 40a just fine?

What my main idea is to use my 8 ga kit, run it to a couple of extra batteries in the trunk (hopefully with just a 40a fuse), and then from those batteries to my amplifier.

Wouldn't that solve my problems?

EDIT:

And yes, the alternator isn't having any problems....its new. Its a 90a alternator, but I guess my car uses quite a bit of power on its own? I have an EXTREME CHEAPO battery up front because that's all that fits!

I'm pretty sure its a battery problem.

 
X gauge wire can only handle X amps of current. When surpassed, it gets hot and melts the insulation and later will short when touching a ground source. Now that youre pulling more amps more often, you really want to risk it? I mean its only 40 bucks.

 
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pioneerisloud

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