94 Accord Alt Problems?

EpicMango
10+ year member

CarAudio.com Elite
20 minute driving to work and suddenly my radio shuts off and I notice that my RPM and speedometer go to 0. Half a second later they are working again.

The problem is back. removing the Chemical buildup at the negative seemed to remedy the problem, but now 10 days later I'm getting the same problem.

I noticed that when I turned my brights on, it almost shuts my engine off when I am in park idling at 500-600 RPM......

Thoughts?

 
I didn't. It just happened while I was lightly bumping the system

Apparently, this is a common issue amongst honda's.

Anything from chemical buildup at the negative to the main relay, to the alternator are possible fixes...

I just wanted to see if I could pinpoint it specifically so I fix it the first time...

 
The neg. cable is a BIG issue with them.

First and foremost.....have you done the "big3" yet?

If not, you need to.

I would also test the battery just to be sure.

That "build up" could be caused by a leaky battery....

 
I have a 99 CRV, and Actually did the Big3,and took the Air Intake box out to place a Large AGM batt in that spot verses that little crackerbox battery next to the firewall,placed a Cold air intake on .When doing the big 3,I noticed that the Two main wires that go to the battery,and the main fuse panel were corroded.I kept cutting back to find good wring,but never did.So I replaced with new 4ga,same as the Big3 for this vehicle.Check,or replace those two wires with new wiring( I used OFC4ga)and did the ELD Bypass,with an Extra AGM in the rear..No Issues at this time..HO alt in the future may also benefit the smaller sized alt as well.Yet, take that vehicle to Orileys,or Autozone, and get the batt checked out as well as the alt,as it is FREE..Could be your battery, or your alt may be giving out.At the least get those checked to eliminate the possibilities,and go to the next issue/possibility.

 
Here's the update on the situation

Went to my local Autozone and got an electrical check done. The guy said he had to move around the clamps to read the 14.25v that the alternator was pushing out saying that the chemical buildup was most likely the issue.

This is a 12v stock alternator, but yet I see it read 14.25 under no load. Either way under almost full tilt and brights on I dipped to around 12ish volts. I saw that my system under almost full tilt was pulling 35 amps from my walmart everstart battery with my brights on as well

Here are some pictures of the before and after removing the buildup. I haven't had a chance to ride around, bump the system and stress my electrical, but I've noticed that my engine doesn't rev lower or almost shut off when I flash my brights...so that must be a good sign? The negative power wire doesn't seem like it has corrosion, and the positive is taped up so I couldn't tell but here are the pictures

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I'll bring you guys updates when I have stressed the electrics.

 
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EpicMango

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