93 chevy silverado small SQ build

Smaller boxes require more power to reach the same excursion as bigger boxes but too big of a box will cause the sub to sound sloppy.

with that kinda power I wouldnt worry bout the power handling of the sub it should handle around 500w clean power.

Tuning to 28hz will keep you response pretty flat I just hope you have some serious midbass cause over 60hz the subs response is going to suffer. But with an 8inch midbass or serious 6.5 inch midbass its perfectly doable.

I usually cross my mids at 60hz anyway

 
Well I've actually decided to do 6.5 midbass drivers in my kick panels rather than speakers, and then do tweeters, and 4x6 plates up top. Should give me all my frequency across the board //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif

Would you recommend going higher on the port? Maybe 30 32?

 
Well I've actually decided to do 6.5 midbass drivers in my kick panels rather than speakers, and then do tweeters, and 4x6 plates up top. Should give me all my frequency across the board //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif
Would you recommend going higher on the port? Maybe 30 32?
I usually tune to 30 or 32 but unless u play alot of slowed or artificial bass music no one really needs to tune below 36hz.

tuning low in a car helps line up the boxes peak with the cabin gain of a vehicle though and therefore it may flatten out your response.

 
I always heard and read that for the best punchy sound quality bass that I should tune below 35. Somewhere closer to 30
Usually punchy bass is around 40hz but tuning to 30hz normally sounds better and can result in a box peak of 40hz depending on the vehicle.

its alot of trial and error but tuning below 30hz u are going to lose alot of output with little gain

 
Ok, I took a dual sealed box and knocked the divider out. Ended up with 1.833 cft before displacement. I added a 3" by 8" port which seemed to equate to 32-33hz. Well it sounds great but seems to not really get that low with sound. Is the port actually tuned wrong? Or what might it possibly be tuning too?

 
So i started on my floor. Im cutting out all the ***** hump since its lifted and going to make the rear floor flat. Going for a box of 2.5cft before subs and port. Going to hopefully have it done by the weekend.

 
I can put money the if you build it bigger and keep tuning low it will sound better.
Winisd is for houses not cars. Good for finding out port legths but not for modeling subs in a car
WinISD is written for modeling loudspeaker systems. Math is the same in a car as it is in a house, a symphony hall or a boat. It's up to the user to understand that the graphs WinISD shows reflect loudspeaker performance in an anechoic chamber and it's also up to the user to know how a room or vehicle cabin will most likely affect that graph.

OP, in order to get a reasonably flat response from those woofers and maintain a practical port length, you will need to model a larger box than RE recommends. And just as an FYI, their recommendations are not for SQ builds, they're for SPL. I would recommend using only one.

 
I've decided to build 2.5cft before displacement. I'm going to run two 4" ports as recommended by mylows10. Also got an amp off of Andrew from his company ampere audio. Going to give it a shot. 1000 watt at 1ohm

 
WinISD is written for modeling loudspeaker systems. Math is the same in a car as it is in a house, a symphony hall or a boat. It's up to the user to understand that the graphs WinISD shows reflect loudspeaker performance in an anechoic chamber and it's also up to the user to know how a room or vehicle cabin will most likely affect that graph.

OP, in order to get a reasonably flat response from those woofers and maintain a practical port length, you will need to model a larger box than RE recommends. And just as an FYI, their recommendations are not for SQ builds, they're for SPL. I would recommend using only one.
As far as I know there is no way to model the cabin gain of a vehicle in winisd. I like winisd but I stopped using it a long time ago. Now I would much rather just have a termlab and adjustable ports. With a truck like his he is going to peak in the low 50s which tuning the box low should overcome the loses below 50hz and since the box should start falling off around 45hz the cabin gain should come into affect and flatten the response till about 60hz.

in my car my peak is 63 hz so when I tune to 32hz I use alot of power so I can cut down the peak frequencies and hold flat when the box starts to roll off. I follow that by a 48db lpf at 60-63hz and let my mids handle anything above.

if I lacked mid basd I cut my lps filter to 52hz at 12db slope and the sub plays into 70hz before falling off substantially.

If rtas where so expensive I would get one to demonstrate. But im not paying 1200 for an audiocontrol rta

 
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