$900 car repair, mechanic blames my amp.

[BaseSteala112 10+ year member]

I would think that if you in fact did destroy that much of your car, as your mechanic said, then it would be quite a bit more than $900. Especially on a newer car.

 

[audiolife 5,000+ posts]

i would want a list of the parts and would like to see them. sounds like a bunch of sh@t but in reality i would think your computer would cost you 900 not to mention the other stuff...

 

[ssj2xxgotenxx 10+ year member]

HAHA mechanics crack me up... I'm suprised he didn't recommend replacing your Flux Capacitor.//content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/laugh.gif.48439b2acf2cfca21620f01e7f77d1e4.gif

 

[bdawson72 5,000+ posts]

U just got dicked

 

[Louisiana_CRX 5,000+ posts]

I was curious did you measure your ground resistance? It needs to be below 1%. Sometimes on unibody cars it is hard for the amp to get a proper gnd in the trunk or seat area. I've had readings at 60% or higher. Sometimes to sove this you may need to run a gnd from your battery back to your grounding point for your amps...some suggest to use the same size as your power which is fine but in test I find this overkill and costly....you can get the same results with cable as small as 10g...the meter never lies //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/biggrin.gif.d71a5d36fcbab170f2364c9f2e3946cb.gif Now this is on basic street beat type of system...I'm not talking about competition systems...Where they run 5 1/0's positive and gnd to save all current....Another thing make sure you upgrade all battery gnds to beefier wire..do the big 3.....//content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif

 

[Hintzyboy 5,000+ posts]

When you get the parts list, make sure the guy didn't charge you for topping off the blinker fluid

 

[pwnt by pat 10+ year member]

wtf is a body module?

 

[ilvwhtgrls 10+ year member]

wtf is a body module?

body control module.

 

[SeeingBlue]

I thought I posted earlier. Something must have went wrong.

I don't really have anything against him as far as I know I did blow all that stuff. No way of telling what really happened. He just blamed the body control module shorting out and causes the rest of the car to go. The grounds to that thing was burnt.

Everything worked when I drove the car that morning. When it died I couldn't really check to see what still worked nor did I care at that point. It was 2am and raining.

The guy even blew 2 computer.. He replaced the first computer and drove the car up the road then back and it did the same thing. I didn't pay for that first computer.

I don't think there is anything I can do. This was back in June..I have no proof of what happened exactly, what was or wasn't broke when I gave him the car.

What else could have caused this? Arcing(sp?) of the power cable maybe? Yes I have a 70 amp fuse next to the battery. How did the batteries - + post get switched?

No, I didn't measure ground resistance.

I don't think I have anything to stand on here.

 

[ultimate157 5,000+ posts]

I really think it sounds like the regulator on your alternator went haywire and allowed it to overpower and fry your system. That sounds like the only thing that couldve happened, with that much stuff fried.

 

[MegaHurtz 10+ year member]

I really think it sounds like the regulator on your alternator went haywire and allowed it to overpower and fry your system. That sounds like the only thing that couldve happened, with that much stuff fried.

x2, that's what I mentioned above. That is also mentioned in the HO alt sticky in this forum.

 

[SeeingBlue]

I really think it sounds like the regulator on your alternator went haywire and allowed it to overpower and fry your system. That sounds like the only thing that couldve happened, with that much stuff fried.

In which case there is nothing I can do?

 

[nVRuckus 5,000+ posts]

Most mechanics will blame it on the one piece they know nothing about //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/wink.gif.608e3ea05f1a9f98611af0861652f8fb.gif

 

[helotaxi 5,000+ posts]

I was curious did you measure your ground resistance? It needs to be below 1%. Sometimes on unibody cars it is hard for the amp to get a proper gnd in the trunk or seat area. I've had readings at 60% or higher. Sometimes to sove this you may need to run a gnd from your battery back to your grounding point for your amps...some suggest to use the same size as your power which is fine but in test I find this overkill and costly....you can get the same results with cable as small as 10g...the meter never lies //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/biggrin.gif.d71a5d36fcbab170f2364c9f2e3946cb.gif Now this is on basic street beat type of system...I'm not talking about competition systems...Where they run 5 1/0's positive and gnd to save all current....Another thing make sure you upgrade all battery gnds to beefier wire..do the big 3.....//content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif

Just curious how you measure resistance in %? Also wondering if you have the slightest clue what you're tlking aobut because the rest of it is crap too. Except the part about the big 3. All of it is totally irrelevant to this post any way you look at it .