Jeffdachef 5,000+ posts
Gunz That Turn on Nunz
Or if you are okay with giving up one side of the car, a really long 10 inch ported enclosure rather than a wide ported box.
I take back my quote in the other thread. What a tool you are smh. Go back to your camera forum Mazda forum where every the hell you go to annoy the s&#t out of people...Id go Kicker CompR in that case. That box should work fine with it. Im guessing you have an amp already cause $150 wont get you much in the way of a powered sub unless youre open to Pioneer.
Are there any in the $100-$150 price range that you'd recommend? As much as I appreciate everyone's input, I'm really leaning toward making this box work, either ported with a smaller sub or a sub that's designed for a sealed box. If I had a suv or big sedan I'd be all over building a big ported box. It's just not in the cards at this point in time. I also have to have a little perspective and know that I'm not going to set any spl records, but if I find a decent set up it'll be infinitely better than what I have now, which a 100% stock system.get a sub thats actually meant for sealed enclosure performance. The sundown Es are sh*t in sealed. Designed for ported.
OK, now I'm actually looking at these dimensions, it might not be too bad. I can always just take it out if I need to. I'm thinking something a little wider and not as deep might work better. Is there a program or something that I could use to play around with the dimensions?I know you're new to this forum... A sealed box guy and Kicker fanboy to boot... do you even know what low bass is?
I'm trying and failing to understand your thinking with these "recommendations" you seem persist with.
Op ought to try for ported if his system includes lower power and he wants output with extension... not sealed
I know space may be at a premium in his car/trunk but I'd find a way to fit something like this...
That's not even as small as It could get... jeez..."Kicker... Sealed"
I've got some time to play around... if you list the desired width, max height, max depth and what amp you plan to use I might be able to help.OK, now I'm actually looking at these dimensions, it might not be too bad. I can always just take it out if I need to. I'm thinking something a little wider and not as deep might work better. Is there a program or something that I could use to play around with the dimensions?
Thanks Shredder. I'll take some measurements and reach out to you.I've got some time to play around... if you list the desired width, max height, max depth and what amp you plan to use I might be able to help.
I'm thinking that it'll end up smaller than you think after all.
All I can do is try
Torres box calculator is my favorite for a program to find what size will work, easy to use too
Yes, I'm definitely on board with building my own ported box. Based on the designs Shredder posted, it'll end up being somewhere around 1 CF. I'm just trying to figure out if there's a better sub and/or better, more powerful amp that can be used in a box that size. I'm way out of the loop on equipment brands and I know there are a lot of brands out there that make really good stuff, but aren't necessarily "household names". I've seen a lot of people talk about Taramps as offering a lot of watts per dollar. On the sub side, it seems like Skar offers a lot of budget subs, but have read not so great things about them. I'm just looking for the most power/sound I can get in a box that size with $300-$350 to spend. I hope that makes sense.if you want space saving and loud, you will need to drop money. If you wanna be cheap. Use torres box calculator and winisd to design your box based on your dimensions and build your own ported box. Cheapest and loudest solution is the ported box. Most space saving is the sealed but very costly with multiple woofers, enclosure and bigger amp
Right combination you can get pretty good results. Depends on your goals with it I guess. Musicals? I wouldn't know how to tune for that. I've gotten away with that small of a ported box with a 10. I'm not trying to get really low with them though not sure how low musicals get.It's kinda funny because I'm over thinking that 500-600 watts to one sub is a pretty good amount of power. Yet, everyone keeps referring to it as "low power". I guess things have really changed while I've been away.
Ha. I only said musicals because I've been listening to the Hamilton soundtrack a lot lately.Right combination you can get pretty good results. Depends on your goals with it I guess. Musicals? I wouldn't know how to tune for that. I've gotten away with that small of a ported box with a 10. I'm not trying to get really low with them though not sure how low musicals get.
I Would plan for at least more than 50% over rms ratting of the sub with the amp. I'd add the dayton ho to your list of options
you want subs that work i small enclosures aka dayton HO series (SQ oriented) or DC audio subs (spl oriented) Stretch it to 1.25 cubic feet for a single 10 and use an aeroported design, it saves A LOT of space compared to a slot ported design.Yes, I'm definitely on board with building my own ported box. Based on the designs Shredder posted, it'll end up being somewhere around 1 CF. I'm just trying to figure out if there's a better sub and/or better, more powerful amp that can be used in a box that size. I'm way out of the loop on equipment brands and I know there are a lot of brands out there that make really good stuff, but aren't necessarily "household names". I've seen a lot of people talk about Taramps as offering a lot of watts per dollar. On the sub side, it seems like Skar offers a lot of budget subs, but have read not so great things about them. I'm just looking for the most power/sound I can get in a box that size with $300-$350 to spend. I hope that makes sense.
Box rise head room amp doesn't have to work as hard you'll get the most out of the sub you'll be able to keep the gain low.Ha. I only said musicals because I've been listening to the Hamilton soundtrack a lot lately.
So, using that Dayton sub as an example, it'll handle 600 rms, so I'd want to pair it with an amp that'll put out 900 rms, right? I always you wanted the two to match up perfectly, or as close as possible.
always have a much bigger amp than the sub to keep a clean signal and account for impedance rise along with longevity. wiring at 1 ohm, the sub will see 2 to 4 ohm power so the sub will only see 300 to 450 rms full tilt off that amp at best.Ha. I only said musicals because I've been listening to the Hamilton soundtrack a lot lately.
So, using that Dayton sub as an example, it'll handle 600 rms, so I'd want to pair it with an amp that'll put out 900 rms, right? I always you wanted the two to match up perfectly, or as close as possible.