.87 cubic foot box - too big for a 10" too small for a 12"

Id go Kicker CompR in that case. That box should work fine with it. Im guessing you have an amp already cause $150 wont get you much in the way of a powered sub unless youre open to Pioneer.
I take back my quote in the other thread. What a tool you are smh. Go back to your camera forum Mazda forum where every the hell you go to annoy the s&#t out of people...

 
Last edited by a moderator:
get a sub thats actually meant for sealed enclosure performance. The sundown Es are sh*t in sealed. Designed for ported.  
Are there any in the $100-$150 price range that you'd recommend?  As much as I appreciate everyone's input, I'm really leaning toward making this box work, either ported with a smaller sub or a sub that's designed for a sealed box. If I had a suv or big sedan I'd be all over building a big ported box. It's just not in the cards at this point in time. I also have to have a little perspective and know that I'm not going to set any spl  records, but if I find a decent set up it'll be infinitely better than what I have now, which a 100% stock system. 

 
I know you're new to this forum... A sealed box guy and Kicker fanboy to boot... do you even know what low bass is?

I'm trying and failing to understand your thinking with these "recommendations" you seem persist with.

Op ought to try for ported if his system includes lower power and he wants output with extension... not sealed

I know space may be at a premium in his car/trunk but I'd find a way to fit something like this...



That's not even as small as It could get... jeez..."Kicker... Sealed"
OK, now I'm actually looking at these dimensions, it might not be too bad. I can always just take it out if I need to.  I'm thinking something a little wider and not as deep might work better. Is there a program or something that I could use to play around with the dimensions?

 
OK, now I'm actually looking at these dimensions, it might not be too bad. I can always just take it out if I need to.  I'm thinking something a little wider and not as deep might work better. Is there a program or something that I could use to play around with the dimensions?
I've got some time to play around... if you list the desired width, max height, max depth and what amp you plan to use I might be able to help.

I'm thinking that it'll end up smaller than you think after all.

All I can do is try

Torres box calculator is my favorite for a program to find what size will work, easy to use too

 
Last edited by a moderator:
if you want space saving and loud, you will need to drop money. If you wanna be cheap. Use torres box calculator and winisd to design your box based on your dimensions and build your own ported box. Cheapest and loudest solution is the ported box.  Most space saving is the sealed but very costly with multiple woofers, enclosure and bigger amp

 
I've got some time to play around... if you list the desired width, max height, max depth and what amp you plan to use I might be able to help.

I'm thinking that it'll end up smaller than you think after all.

All I can do is try

Torres box calculator is my favorite for a program to find what size will work, easy to use too
Thanks Shredder. I'll take some measurements and reach out to you. 

It's kinda funny because I'm over thinking that 500-600 watts to one sub is a pretty good amount of power. Yet, everyone keeps referring to it as "low power". I guess things have really changed while I've been away. The last system I built was 4 Cerwin Vega 12s powered by a Punch 800. I did plan to add another Punch 800, but never got around to it.

All this begs the question, what sub/amp combo could I find that will work with a box similar in size to what you've shown above and not be considered "low power".  I mean a more powerful amp is not really going to weigh too much more, or take up much more room. What would y'all recommend if I have $300-$350 to sepnd on an amp and sub?

 
if you want space saving and loud, you will need to drop money. If you wanna be cheap. Use torres box calculator and winisd to design your box based on your dimensions and build your own ported box. Cheapest and loudest solution is the ported box.  Most space saving is the sealed but very costly with multiple woofers, enclosure and bigger amp
Yes, I'm definitely on board with building my own ported box. Based on the designs Shredder posted, it'll end up being somewhere around 1 CF.  I'm just trying to figure out if there's a better sub and/or better, more powerful amp that can be used in a box that size. I'm way out of the loop on equipment brands and I know there are a lot of brands out there that make really good stuff, but aren't necessarily "household names".  I've seen a lot of people talk about Taramps as offering a lot of watts per dollar. On the sub side, it seems like Skar offers a lot of budget subs, but have read not so great things about them.  I'm just looking for the most power/sound I can get in a box that size with $300-$350 to spend. I hope that makes sense. 

 
Stay away from Skar as what you are reading is correct. You can go with Taramps for the amplifier as they are very nice and not expensive at all. They are made in Brazil, many people here run them and love them. Look up the testing they are doing on them and they always come out ahead across the board of what the factory has them rated for.

There is other Sundown Audio subwoofers that will work besides the SD-3 as that model prefers sealed from factory. There is a Sundown Refurbished sale going on at the link below no warranty but I can attest to the refurbishing skills of Miriam and her co-workers as can many others. I ordered a SD-3 and it looks brand new, only problem I saw was a couple scuff marks on the bottom of the chrome cover over the magnet which in all reality who cares about something like that which will be seen!

ALSO she is rebuilding SD-3 subwoofers right now that CAN BE setup for ported boxes! She rebuilds them herself along with her co-worker as I stated above and you can get them setup as Dual 2 ohm or Dual 4 ohm. So you can get a Taramps 2 ohm amplifier that would work with the Dual 4 ohm just wire it so it shows 2 ohm at the amplifier

http://www.caraudioclassifieds.org/forum/sundown-audio/255762-refurbished-sub-woofers-%40-sundown-2019-a.html

possible taramp suggestions for the kind of power you are looking for

https://www.amazon.com/Taramps-MD12001-Tara-1200-Midbass/dp/B074KQP62F/ref=pd_day0_hl_107_14?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B074KQP62F&pd_rd_r=19ed098a-66b1-11e9-bbed-57e65051719f&pd_rd_w=Dam3Y&pd_rd_wg=hjSHu&pf_rd_p=ad07871c-e646-4161-82c7-5ed0d4c85b07&pf_rd_r=D4J82Q0K940B679WYTSQ&psc=1&refRID=D4J82Q0K940B679WYTSQ

https://www.amazon.com/Taramps-1800-1-1800w-Channel-Amplifier/dp/B07BK9K9B2/ref=sr_1_fkmrnull_1?keywords=taramps+md+1800.1&qid=1556125230&s=gateway&sr=8-1-fkmrnull

 
Last edited by a moderator:
It's kinda funny because I'm over thinking that 500-600 watts to one sub is a pretty good amount of power. Yet, everyone keeps referring to it as "low power". I guess things have really changed while I've been away. 
Right combination you can get pretty good  results. Depends on your goals with it I guess. Musicals? I wouldn't know how to tune for that. I've gotten away with that small of a ported box with a 10. I'm not trying to get really low with them though not sure how low musicals get. 

I Would plan for at least more than 50% over rms ratting of the sub with the amp. I'd add the dayton ho to your list of options 

 
Last edited by a moderator:
Right combination you can get pretty good  results. Depends on your goals with it I guess. Musicals? I wouldn't know how to tune for that. I've gotten away with that small of a ported box with a 10. I'm not trying to get really low with them though not sure how low musicals get. 

I Would plan for at least more than 50% over rms ratting of the sub with the amp. I'd add the dayton ho to your list of options 
Ha.  I only said musicals because I've been listening to the Hamilton soundtrack a lot lately. 

So, using that Dayton sub as an example, it'll handle 600 rms, so I'd want to pair it with an amp that'll put out 900 rms, right?  I always you wanted the two to match up perfectly, or as close as possible. 

 
Yes, I'm definitely on board with building my own ported box. Based on the designs Shredder posted, it'll end up being somewhere around 1 CF.  I'm just trying to figure out if there's a better sub and/or better, more powerful amp that can be used in a box that size. I'm way out of the loop on equipment brands and I know there are a lot of brands out there that make really good stuff, but aren't necessarily "household names".  I've seen a lot of people talk about Taramps as offering a lot of watts per dollar. On the sub side, it seems like Skar offers a lot of budget subs, but have read not so great things about them.  I'm just looking for the most power/sound I can get in a box that size with $300-$350 to spend. I hope that makes sense. 
you want subs that work i small enclosures aka dayton HO series (SQ oriented) or DC audio subs (spl oriented)   Stretch it to 1.25 cubic feet for a single 10 and use an aeroported design, it saves A LOT of space compared to a slot ported design.

Stay away from skar, weak motored requiring giant enclosures to sound somewhat decent.

On a budget, you can probably find some alpine type R 12 in your local classifieds for 50 to 100 bucks that also works in a small box as well.

 
Last edited by a moderator:
Ha.  I only said musicals because I've been listening to the Hamilton soundtrack a lot lately. 

So, using that Dayton sub as an example, it'll handle 600 rms, so I'd want to pair it with an amp that'll put out 900 rms, right?  I always you wanted the two to match up perfectly, or as close as possible. 
Box rise head room amp doesn't have to work as hard you'll get the most out of the sub you'll be able to keep the gain low. 

Most folks use well over the rms around here. With the voltage I'm getting to my amp I'm able to get well over 1200 watts out of it. I've used a few different  500 rms rated subs on it for example. Several hours a day as a matter of fact. You don't have to use all the amps power and it's better for it if you're not trying to get everything out of it. Push your sub hard (with in reason of course) but  not your amp.

 
Ha.  I only said musicals because I've been listening to the Hamilton soundtrack a lot lately. 

So, using that Dayton sub as an example, it'll handle 600 rms, so I'd want to pair it with an amp that'll put out 900 rms, right?  I always you wanted the two to match up perfectly, or as close as possible. 
always have a much bigger amp than the sub to keep a clean signal and account for impedance rise along with longevity.  wiring at 1 ohm, the sub will see 2 to 4 ohm power so the sub will only see 300 to 450 rms full tilt off that amp at best.

 
Activity
No one is currently typing a reply...
Old Thread: Please note, there have been no replies in this thread for over 3 years!
Content in this thread may no longer be relevant.
Perhaps it would be better to start a new thread instead.

Similar threads

Could not tell you, but you may want to start by going to crutchfield and get a consensus on the 7 or so replacements they recommend. That average...
1
513
I’m finding new songs that weren’t hitting on my DD712. Bass reflex 4order. The bandpass is selective to 70+ songs and plays them better than...
2
1K
Opted to show my buckeyes some love. Used some padding and also a unique piece of laminate I hade laying around. Needless to say, I’m happy it’s...
6
209
I think you're gonna have to get good with fiberglass or something, or find someone with a 3d laser scanner that can 3d print or mold you some...
7
603

About this thread

4BangerStanger

CarAudio.com Regular
Thread starter
4BangerStanger
Joined
Location
DFW
Start date
Participants
Who Replied
Replies
40
Views
4,921
Last reply date
Last reply from
4BangerStanger
DD451980-D607-41AB-B69C-6745AAE4B848.jpeg

SlugButter

    Mar 28, 2024
  • 0
  • 0
F98C6D78-7734-4659-9FCA-34969BDDC56A.jpeg

SlugButter

    Mar 28, 2024
  • 0
  • 0

Latest topics

Top