8" midbass choice

[awholelotofnutz]

I bet the mx will sound great but at that price tag I can't do that right now thanks for the help though.

 

[Roland 10+ year member]

There's other ways to get strong midbass than 8" in the door. Also like mentioned it a only a few tweeters can match with some 8's. (i know it's temporary) here's another option that could save you time, money, and likely get you better results.

I've found the below 160hz you can't really localize the source of sound in a suv/van. So 8's in the door aren't always necessary for loud SQ music. With a open cabin SUV there are a few subs that can play well into the 100hz range and one i know for sure that's very good into the 200hz's. I went from 8"s Dynaudio WM172 crossed at 70hz, back to 6.5's crossed at 160. Added and a pair of TS W1200pro Proaudio Subs and my system and now it can get much louder with crazy impact. I understand the Acoustic Elegance SBP is good up high also. I thought the Dayton Audio Ultimax was good up to 125-ish but the W1200pro is cheaper, better, and louder on less wattage, The Dayton's gets lower, the w1200 do need to be ported with 2.5 cubic box to get low.

 

[awholelotofnutz]

After reading around online is running a 3way active front stage sraight off the amps crossovers recommended ( no processing or TA). I'm sure people have done it but im not sure about the results.

 

[Papermaker85 5,000+ posts]

simply put not many drivers are designed for car audio.. a good solid midsbass * should have a FS of around 65hz and a QE of around .55 with low as possible mass and a decent sroke(6mm is plenty). its really not hard to desgin.. i see entire to many low efficeny designs made for ported alignment and tuned very low(35-40hz). they will never yeld good results.

you COULD do a decent prosound driver ported tuned to 65 or so and get decent results but ID NEVER ask a 8" to play above 1500hz..

 

[Papermaker85 5,000+ posts]

http://www.parts-express.com/pedocs/brochures/294-2711-prv-audio-8mb500-ndy-brochure.pdf

excellent candidate. if you could port that lil ****** it would ROCK your world..

 

[Papermaker85 5,000+ posts]

Dayton Audio PS220-8 8" Point Source Full-Range Neo Driver

if you just want something loud just go with any prosound driver you want something that going to get loud and trustly sound good too boot search around..

 

[awholelotofnutz]

Those are some good drivers. I was taking you advice on the 8" and nothing above 1500Hz. That's why I was asking about a 3 way active using just the amps crossovers was a good idea. Midbass in bottom of door midrage in stock place about middle and tweeter in apiller.

 

[Papermaker85 5,000+ posts]

same thing though.. finding a good efficient mid-bass is just tuff for car audio without porting them.

Dayton Audio PA200-8 8" Pro Woofer Speaker you can croos this around 1.5k with a 12bd octave slope give it 100 watts RMS and it will jam..

these can be crossed around 1500 with 12 db octave slope.

HiVi RT2C-A Planar Isodynamic Tweeter

croos her @ 2000 with a 12bd octave slope.. they will osund great and get STUPID loud

 

[Papermaker85 5,000+ posts]

PRV Audio 8MB500-NDY Neodymium 8" Midbass/Midrange Woofer 8 Ohm

even better sealed

http://www.parts-express.com/dayton-audio-pm220-8-8-wideband-midbass-neo-driver--295-345 this is gona get loud as **** but your gonna have to cross it above 70 smae with the driver above

http://www.parts-express.com/prv-audio-8mb600-8-high-power-pa-midbass-woofer-8-ohm--294-2712 better midbass sealed alot more throw but wwill be very direction above 1k so it has to be on axis..

 

[awholelotofnutz]

Thanks for all the help. Sorry for my noobness but those 8's above you are considering are still for a 3 way right? Also any input on if I should even attempt a 3 way with processing or TA.

 

---------- Post added at 12:13 PM ---------- Previous post was at 12:12 PM ----------

 

With out processing or TA I meant.

 

[Papermaker85 5,000+ posts]

if the amp has the crossovers built in you can. if you keep the drivers and tweeter close together you can get away without and major processing. but id suggest you get a CD player that you can use time alignment bettween your left and right channels.

to do a 3 way system is going to take a very expensive amp. while you can get something like a sundown 100.4 and use its built in xovers and its like 350-400 vs 800-1000 for a 6 channel..

the tweeters are very efficent planar tweeters and the midrange with a fairly narrow bandwidth with 100 watts is gonna be pretty loud. no way in hell will that 8 keep up..

 

[Papermaker85 5,000+ posts]

HiVi RT2C-A Planar Isodynamic Tweeter this planar tweeter is super ******* loud with 25 watts.. they can take 40 for music.. i wanted to run and hide when they where near full output.. lol. theey are SQ competition winning tweeters but they sound good and have a WIDE *** bandwidth. they are metallic in nature so they can be abit sharp but they aren't over-whelming. as long as you have a decnt EQ its nothing to worry about..

and now n days even the 150$ the cd players have a eq that can iron it out if you think its too bright..

 

[Papermaker85 5,000+ posts]

if you want to do a 3 way the CDT audio set i posted is one of the most versatility to tune toy your liking without being 1200$.

 

[awholelotofnutz]

I have the ppi 900.4 with active crossovers. Was considering the ppi 600.2 for the mid bass, also has active crossovers.

 

[awholelotofnutz]

@papermaker

Would these be some efficient drivers

DL840-4 8" Heavy Duty Treated Paper Cone Woofer 4 Ohm