8 inch woofers in doors

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Well I wanted 50hz. But now I'm thinking that's not going to happen as long as my door is the enclosure. I'm pretty sure I'd need a ported box for that kind of mid bass. So here's my next question. 150 watts rms, 8mm xmax,86db speaker. Or 80watt rms, 6mm xmax, 91db speaker. I have the power for either. Let's leave specific models out of it. Given the appropriate power, what's best?? And let's say 80hz crossover point

 
Well I wanted 50hz. But now I'm thinking that's not going to happen as long as my door is the enclosure. I'm pretty sure I'd need a ported box for that kind of mid bass. So here's my next question. 150 watts rms, 8mm xmax,86db speaker. Or 80watt rms, 6mm xmax, 91db speaker. I have the power for either. Let's leave specific models out of it. Given the appropriate power, what's best?? And let's say 80hz crossover point
I get 50hz strong just fine, just power handling goes down slightly vs my high pass at 63hz. However 50hz is sub bass region so you cant really classify that as midbass. I'd take the speaker with the beefier motor and surround.

Make sure you turn your vehicle door into a proper speaker enclosure with proper install techniques or else it doesnt matter what driver you get, you wont get anything worthwhile out of your setup if you dont acoustically treat your doors.


 
I get 50hz strong just fine, just power handling goes down slightly vs my high pass at 63hz. However 50hz is sub bass region so you cant really classify that as midbass. I'd take the speaker with the beefier motor and surround.
Make sure you turn your vehicle door into a proper speaker enclosure with proper install techniques or else it doesnt matter what driver you get, you wont get anything worthwhile out of your setup if you dont acoustically treat your doors.


The cool thing about my doors is there is no gaps. The large hole that usually is covered by a clear plastic sheet has an abs plastic cover that is bolted to the door skin. Came like this from the factory. Because of this I do get pretty good sound. But the factory Bose woofers are just so so. That's why I'm replacing. As far as I can tell from my research, I'm the first to even attempt it in this car with the Bose system. I do have deadener and foam directly behind the speaker. But I think that layer that goes between the inner door skin and the panel would help a bunch. That, and that tape he's wrapping around the door clips. I guess it's felt tape?? I need to watch again. Anyways I think I know what I'm gonna do from here. Thanks for the advice

 
used to thought midbass was hard but if you go active, deadened doors and have plenty of power and with some decent EQ tuned right, you can have globs of midbass. I wouldnt suggest using a subwoofer for midbass though. It usually plays too low and causes cancellation with the sub you have in the rear leaving a bigger sound gap. Tried it already. You need very dedicated crossovers only found in most DSPs. basically a 45hz high pass with 48 db slope and a 120hz low pass along with a very small QTS enclosure. Overall, i got better midbass working with midbass drivers instead. crescendo PWX gets pretty midbasy with enough power and deadening.

 
The mid bass is ran active with eq. The rest of the speakers in the car are ran off the Bose amp. But I did swap the 3 dash speakers with Daytons as well as making the left and right dash speakers into components by adding a passive crossover and tweeters in the pillars. The car didn't have any tweeters. Lol. Of course added subs. Just need to mid bass to keep up now. I think for now I'm just going to put the Dayton rs225's back in. Try 80hz crossover and save some money for those JL midbass. Or maybe try the peerless. Both have more xmax ando can handle more power. That and dampen the door up more. I'll take a glance at the crescendo as well

 
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