60 amp alternator not enough ?

My voltage drops to 11 volts with stereo, aircon and headlights on.
Do I need to change the alternator or there is something wrong with the alternator ?
Just swap you alt for a slightly bigger one. 100amp or 140amp. U can get thrm junkyards. Or get you alt rewound so that it produces more power.

 
My voltage drops to 11 volts with stereo, aircon and headlights on.
Do I need to change the alternator or there is something wrong with the alternator ?
Depends on what you car's alternator is rated/speced at. If it's rated at 60Amp output AND your voltages are dropping then yes you need a higher capacity/output alternator. The alternator has to run all the car's electrics after starting the car and if voltages are dropping below more than the 12V the battery is rated at, then as you drive your battery is draining and may not be able to start your car the next time you need it to.

John Kuthe...

 
Depends on what you car's alternator is rated/speced at. If it's rated at 60Amp output AND your voltages are dropping then yes you need a higher capacity/output alternator. The alternator has to run all the car's electrics after starting the car and if voltages are dropping below more than the 12V the battery is rated at, then as you drive your battery is draining and may not be able to start your car the next time you need it to.
John Kuthe...

thanks for the info genius. your "installer guy" tell you that. Fukin retard you are.

 
thanks for the info genius. your "installer guy" tell you that. Fukin retard you are.
You are a real jerk!! What I typed is basically true. No no one told me that, I've learned it all my life, and after all I have an EE Bachelor' so I think I know what I'm talking about! You know, like the people who design car electrical systems? Jerk! :-(

John Kuthe...

 
Remember that the generator's rated output is not attained at idle RPM. For example, when I am measuring the generator output on my Jeep the engine speed for this test is 1,250 RPM, so I use my diagnostic tool to lock onto that RPM during testing / measurement.

 
On my vehicle, with normal light-loading, the generator will maintain the specified voltage at idle. On my vehicle the voltage is higher at cold temperature and lower at warm temperature.

When the current load increases (lights, wipers, amplifier, etc...) the generator won't keep up at idle. But, the generator is specified to provide full output at the test speed of 1,250 RPM. That is where I set it for generator output measurement using my tools and instruments.

What does the FSM say about the generator on your vehicle? Which vehicle is affected?

 
When idling, (less than 1000 RPM) I was told that the voltage should be in the 13v range, is this correct or it should be 13v at 1250 RPM
If its self exciting it usually charges depending or rpm.External its more than likely load based or rpm based some are both.. If you see a current transformer on the ground its sensing current draw to excite the amature..

 
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