58 Farad Super Capacitor for $80 !!

I think getting all that for a couple of MTX terminators is a joke.
The capacitor is there for one reason, to stabilize line voltage, that's all i expect it to do.

I'm quite sure there is a voltage drop between the battery and the amplifier, the capacitor will address that voltage drop and maintain line voltage.

Maintaining line voltage puts less strain on the charging system, no dips in the voltage = no spikes in the current.

Don't count on my system remaining the same, it will undergo changes until i am happy with it and i am not happy with the MTX subs, a single NVX sub will soon replace the pair of MTX's.. cheers.

 
This thread is showing me a lot about a few people on here. OP my friend has been using these for a while now & not everyone knows about them. But they are worth every penny.

 
Are you saying a HO alt with the big three is not the way to go? I agree that a bunch of batteries is not ideal.
Anyone have an opinion on this?:

15V 233F Ultracapacitor Engine Battery Starter Booster Car Ultra Super Capacitor | eBay

I was thinking about replacing my main battery with it
I can't speak for that but i was reading a story about a gentleman who bought one of these to replace his car battery because his headlights were dimming and was not happy with it UNTIL he actually charged it up and started the car with it, now he won't trade it for his car battery. The main battery is only used to start the car and run the accessories when the engine is off, when the engine is running the alternator is the workhorse. The capacitor is steadily discharging and recharging filling any voids in the line voltage and making sure all the accessories have enough voltage to operate correctly no matter the load

892.jpg


 
Op,pleasse let us know how this works.

I was looking at the one that was linked to.

how many rms can they handle?

would they be better then amg audio batterys?
the one that Trumpet linked up is just like mine and already assembled for $9 more, that's a **** good deal that i wish i had seen before i bought the kit and then a $44 soldering gun, now that i have the 200/260 watt gun i will find more uses for it, trust me..

A 58 Farad capacitor is (supposedly) enough for 58,000 watts, 1 farad per 1000 watts, please don't hold me to that..

I can't (won't) answer the other question..

 
This a graphic representation of a voltage dip or what can happen when the bass hits or during a musical peak.

fig1-definition-300x113.png


this is 3-phase A/C but if you follow the 1st phase (red) you get the picture.

fig3-31122013-1905-300x134.png


the proper capacitor will remove those dips..

 
Absolute best use for a capacitor in an high performance audio system would be to get the expensive ones with 500 farad capacity and run no battery, or run the battery to start the car and do the audio all off the caps.. A really high end cap bank like the linked one, especially if you run 2 or 3 will outdo any battery you put in front of it, even the big group 31's by the big name companies (xs, NS, doesn't matter). T-fade did a test comparing them head to head to quote him "batteries don't want none" it was batteries dropping into the 11's and putting out over 1000 watts less out of the same amplifier as the caps. SPL guys figured this out a little while ago, at least the smarter ones did.

That being said, they still work if you wire them inline to your battery, but they work better when they don't have to deal with the batteries slower discharge rate. Nice thing about caps if they can send electricity out as fast as it can flow essentially so they are working all the time. Battery banks dont' really do ANYTHING until you get down to the resting voltage of the battery, which even on a good agm is mid 12's. Until then your alt is doing all the work. With caps, they'll charge at your alts level if wired directly in and hold that voltage as long as they can. If you get a few banks to give yourself some reserve, you have a killer setup that batteries can't match. Much longer life, much better performance and much better weight.

 
Absolute best use for a capacitor in an high performance audio system would be to get the expensive ones with 500 farad capacity and run no battery, or run the battery to start the car and do the audio all off the caps.. A really high end cap bank like the linked one, especially if you run 2 or 3 will outdo any battery you put in front of it, even the big group 31's by the big name companies (xs, NS, doesn't matter). T-fade did a test comparing them head to head to quote him "batteries don't want none" it was batteries dropping into the 11's and putting out over 1000 watts less out of the same amplifier as the caps. SPL guys figured this out a little while ago, at least the smarter ones did.
That being said, they still work if you wire them inline to your battery, but they work better when they don't have to deal with the batteries slower discharge rate. Nice thing about caps if they can send electricity out as fast as it can flow essentially so they are working all the time. Battery banks dont' really do ANYTHING until you get down to the resting voltage of the battery, which even on a good agm is mid 12's. Until then your alt is doing all the work. With caps, they'll charge at your alts level if wired directly in and hold that voltage as long as they can. If you get a few banks to give yourself some reserve, you have a killer setup that batteries can't match. Much longer life, much better performance and much better weight.
Was really contemplating this for a long time. Thanks for helping me realize my next goal. How many banks for a 4000 watt system?

 
Been watching these for a while. interested to hear your results and opinions on it once this kit is running.

I am curious as to how you plan to wire this up though. The terminal can accept up to #4 wiring, which IIRC is just 4 gauge wire. Given you need one wire from your charging source, and one going to the amp, you could fit what like 3 runs of 8 gauge in there comfortably?

Unless you could use a distribution block to connect the alt/cap/amp and i'm just overthinking this.

 
lord have mercy, DO NOT try and assemble this kit with the Weller D550, the tip on the gun is huge and not really suited for soldering the LED's or the resistors, a 40 watt pencil iron is perfectly suited for the smaller components but you will need the D550 once you start to solder the cap's in place, remember to pull the LED's up about .5" out of the board before soldering otherwise they could be damaged from the heat, the resistors however can lay right on the board, they don't mind a little heat, just bend them in a U shape and stick the leads in the holes..

It's almost done !!

 
Been watching these for a while. interested to hear your results and opinions on it once this kit is running.
I am curious as to how you plan to wire this up though. The terminal can accept up to #4 wiring, which IIRC is just 4 gauge wire. Given you need one wire from your charging source, and one going to the amp, you could fit what like 3 runs of 8 gauge in there comfortably?

Unless you could use a distribution block to connect the alt/cap/amp and i'm just overthinking this.
no worries, it will be wired in with the 4 gauge positive lead, battery positive > capacitor positive > amplifier positive.

Battery negative > capacitor negative > amplifier negative > chassis ground.

 
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