4 Ch. Amp Suggestion

[Jeffdachef 5,000+ posts]

He said he doesn't support PPI PCX amps.

The sibilant sound is from

1: poor car acoustics, toyotas have this problem and requires a lot of acoustical treatment to tame it. Or need different tweeter positioning different from where the stock locations are.

2: Mediocre or crap sound processing. If you arent running active along with having a head unit or digital sound processor with at least 13 bands to 31 bands of EQ, You arent solving anything with a different amp.

3: infinity kappa tweets are known to be bright, #1 and #2 will amplify this by far into the annoying/unbearable range.

 

[shizzzon 10+ year member]

Just in case you like compact size with Class AB functionality.

Gold plated controls, brushed aluminum housing.

Power Supply can accept below 8v.

Tested to withstand 0.25ohm operation in stereo mode and 18v spikes for brief instances. Very durable.

It is our SQ Brand - VE Audio.

 

[Rajeev]

The sibilant sound is from
1: poor car acoustics, toyotas have this problem and requires a lot of acoustical treatment to tame it. Or need different tweeter positioning different from where the stock locations are.

2: Mediocre or crap sound processing. If you arent running active along with having a head unit or digital sound processor with at least 13 bands to 31 bands of EQ, You arent solving anything with a different amp.

3: infinity kappa tweets are known to be bright, #1 and #2 will amplify this by far into the annoying/unbearable range.

Yeah, I'm aware the acoustics are pretty poor in this car, in my '02, which I noticed was at least better than my older Camry. But even the music coming out the doors was no warmness to it. I use my iPhone to play music sending Bluetooth digitally to a Soundblaster E5 which has some sound processing, and my Kenwood XXV-01D has some more (TruBass, Surround 3D, and EQs). I can cut down on the harsh sibilant sounds but I feel such a manual way messes with the natural sound. But I do it anyway.

My 4 doors are Dynamatted well on the sheet metal side, but perhaps not on the interior side (been a long time)

New news!: I think I damaged something. I know have a PPI4400 (4x50W) and now the music sounds poor with static at times on the front left. I may have played it too loud and sending clipped signals?? It is more noticable at low volume. Also noticed before RR sounds bad and has a tear in the rubber surround. Who'd have known Infinity makes 4ohm front speakers and 2 ohm rear speakers...LOL.

 

[Jeffdachef 5,000+ posts]

Yeah, I'm aware the acoustics are pretty poor in this car, in my '02, which I noticed was at least better than my older Camry. But even the music coming out the doors was no warmness to it. I use my iPhone to play music sending Bluetooth digitally to a Soundblaster E5 which has some sound processing, and my Kenwood XXV-01D has some more (TruBass, Surround 3D, and EQs). I can cut down on the harsh sibilant sounds but I feel such a manual way messes with the natural sound. But I do it anyway.My 4 doors are Dynamatted well on the sheet metal side, but perhaps not on the interior side (been a long time)

New news!: I think I damaged something. I know have a PPI4400 (4x50W) and now the music sounds poor with static at times on the front left. I may have played it too loud and sending clipped signals?? It is more noticable at low volume. Also noticed before RR sounds bad and has a tear in the rubber surround. Who'd have known Infinity makes 4ohm front speakers and 2 ohm rear speakers...LOL.

thats horrible processing for cars. You are better off with a proper sound quality head unit. You have ZERO control over the sound by comparison. with that 800, half should go to an amp, half should go into a proper head unit setup because thats really bad.

You want a head unit that can time align, have more than 13 bands of EQ, a powerful built in Bluetooth audio decoder etc.. The trubass surround 3d bullcrap is just basic preset EQs that they put on the head unit to make you think its a good head unit. Its really not. You only have a 4 band EQ on that kenwood and no EQ on the sound blaster, you cant expect music to sound good without proper tuning capabilities. If you want things to sound good and proper, you need to do it the right way.

 

[Rajeev]

thats horrible processing for cars. You are better off with a proper sound quality head unit. You have ZERO control over the sound by comparison. with that 800, half should go to an amp, half should go into a proper head unit setup because thats really bad.
You want a head unit that can time align, have more than 13 bands of EQ, a powerful built in Bluetooth audio decoder etc.. The trubass surround 3d bullcrap is just basic preset EQs that they put on the head unit to make you think its a good head unit. Its really not. You only have a 4 band EQ on that kenwood and no EQ on the sound blaster, you cant expect music to sound good without proper tuning capabilities. If you want things to sound good and proper, you need to do it the right way.

Well, a new Bluetooth HU can eliminate the need of the SB-E5. But the E5 has amazing sound processing IMO, recommended by audiophiles, and it sends a stereo signal to the HU. I can bypass the HU sound processing. The XXV-01D should've been Kenwood Excelon's top HU back 10 years ago and does have time align. I assuming audio quality hasn't improved much since then?

I really only wanted to dull the sibilant sounds. Do you think a 13+ band EQ will help much when I have the fronts in the stock door position? And possibly add mid bass/warmness? My tweeters are up on the dash.

I don't mind buying a new HU tho b/c my display sometimes turns off when pushing the dial button, and the E5 doesn't seem to work so well in the heat.

 

[Jeffdachef 5,000+ posts]

Well, a new Bluetooth HU can eliminate the need of the SB-E5. But the E5 has amazing sound processing IMO, recommended by audiophiles, and it sends a stereo signal to the HU. I can bypass the HU sound processing. The XXV-01D should've been Kenwood Excelon's top HU back 10 years ago and does have time align. I assuming audio quality hasn't improved much since then?I really only wanted to dull the sibilant sounds. Do you think a 13+ band EQ will help much when I have the fronts in the stock door position? And possibly add mid bass/warmness? My tweeters are up on the dash.

I don't mind buying a new HU tho b/c my display sometimes turns off when pushing the dial button, and the E5 doesn't seem to work so well in the heat.

Yes a sound quality head unit will beat all of that. You have too many things in the line of signal, keep it simple and the signal will be a lot better and clearer. Keep that DAC for headphones and head fi, it has no place in the car. look into an 80 prs. it has 16 bands of EQ and your trouble areas should be 5khz to 8khz which the 80 prs can definitely fix. You can add warmness and midbass with the rest of the EQ.

If you want to stick with kenwood look into a kenwood ddx373

 

[Rajeev]

Yes a sound quality head unit will beat all of that. You have too many things in the line of signal, keep it simple and the signal will be a lot better and clearer. Keep that DAC for headphones and head fi, it has no place in the car. look into an 80 prs. it has 16 bands of EQ and your trouble areas should be 5khz to 8khz which the 80 prs can definitely fix. You can add warmness and midbass with the rest of the EQ.
If you want to stick with kenwood look into a kenwood ddx373

Yes I will be getting a new HU soon. I may just stick to Kenwood for familiarity, although can't say they have the best reviews in terms of feature reliability.

Have a question for many of these HU's with the 13-band EQ's. Are those frequencies adjustable? On my XXV-01D, they were adjustable along with the width of the parabolic curve. I'm leaning towards DDX793

Note: I'll have to get new F/R speakers, seems one sounds really bad, and all have torn rubber surrounds I may have to start a thread for those.