358 vs. 383

Which will you choose?

  • 355

    Votes: 7 18.4%
  • 383

    Votes: 31 81.6%

  • Total voters
    38
what company did u go through do u know? i dont know where to look i used the yellow pages but no one said they would do it. ik they are thats y im shocked i cant find ne one !

 
i need to start lookin for good total rebuild kits. i want around 400 hp. still havent gotten ahold of a machine shop so idk if im goin 355 or 383. chances are im goin 355 and tryin to get as much out of it as i can.

 
generally, a smaller engine will have to spin higher to make the same hp as a larger displacement engine. and rpm is what generally kills. I would go with the bigger motor.

 
I got some prices locally for some machine work. $75-$85 clean the block, $22 bore per cylinder, $55-$70 install cam bearings, $95 surface block, grind crank $160-$150, $15 resize rods, $9 press pistons to rods, balance $295-$350, then head work on top of that. Fully assembled parts included about $2000-$2500 block only, heads additional.

 

VERY EASY ANSWER. gO BIGGER. THE PRICE WILL BE IDENTICAL, AND FOR THAT SAME PRICE THE POWER WILL GO UP SLIGHTLY, BUT THAT JUMP IN TORQUE WILL WAKE IT UP QUITE A BIT OVER THE 355. ALSO, THE BIGGER MOTOR WILL TAKE TO A POWER ADDER BETTER FOR THE FUTURE, AS LONG AS YOU KEEP THE COMPRESSION REASONABLE.

 
a 383 stroker is a good torque engine i ran 1 for a season when i ran NMCA

( worlds fastest street carshoot out) and it was O.K. my favorite was a 377 400 small block with 350 crank but in your pick up a 383 will deff. be a tire fryer.

and there is alot more machine work involved with a 383 that to just boar your 350 to a 355 ect.

you have to take alot off the 400 crank main journals, and then notch the block.

the 383 will have alot more pep.

mine was pushing over 750 HP at rear wheels on dyno.

but ran on alky.

 
also if you need any help or tips PM me i know alot about SBC thats all i ever drag reace with on the street and track.

just advice pick an RPM range and get every thing to match

cam, stall and intake should start pulling at the same RPM range.

 
a 383 stroker is a good torque engine i ran 1 for a season when i ran NMCA( worlds fastest street carshoot out) and it was O.K. my favorite was a 377 400 small block with 350 crank but in your pick up a 383 will deff. be a tire fryer.

and there is alot more machine work involved with a 383 that to just boar your 350 to a 355 ect.

you have to take alot off the 400 crank main journals, and then notch the block.

the 383 will have alot more pep.

mine was pushing over 750 HP at rear wheels on dyno.

but ran on alky.
why did youj have to make adjustments on the main journals? A 400 crank will fit, and yes, you can either get pre-notched 5.7" rods, or clearance the block. Some, will require a small base circle cam. My first 383 didn't need it, nor the second. last 383 I was gonna build was a small base roller.

The problem now is finding either a good used 400 crank, or getting an afetrmarket one, like the SCAT, Eagle, Crower,etc

But 'basic' 383 kits are getting cheaper all the time, if money permits.

 
it's around .004 that have to come off a 400 crank main jornal, and i'd stock with a stock crank, and a good H-beam 6" rodnormally the weak piont in a SBC is the rods.

so if you go forged then stick with a stock crank.

i never ran notched rods. i had a local machine shop do all my work.

reason for stock crank is.

if you throw a rod-, block ,crank rod and some times cam are all f*cked.

but if you make the crank your weak link then when it brakes usually it won't mess anything else up.

so just get another crank and re balance everything and go.

 
wallets not that deep but the build and or buying all the parts can take a while since i bought the extra engine. im still lookin for a shop to do my work so i can start finding prices

 
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