3000 watts RMS 1/0 gauge how many runs

[Lakota 5,000+ posts]

no its not. i have a stock alt and 2 kinetik batteries are 5000 rms. voltage is very good. 12.2v is the lowest i do on a song.

do 2 runs of 1/0. one run going from pos to pos and another run going from neg to neg.

Then you amp is not drawing a lot of current continuously.

I=P/V=5000/14= 357 amps

I don't see your electrical system being able to produce that power for very long, especially since this is assuming 100% efficiency.

 

[lostdaytomorrow 10+ year member]

Then you amp is not drawing a lot of current continuously.
I=P/V=5000/14= 357 amps

I don't see your electrical system being able to produce that power for very long, especially since this is assuming 100% efficiency.

Several people deny Ohm's Law every day on the forums. Did you not know that it's just theory, and in real life Ohm's Law doesn't even matter?

//content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/biggrin.gif.d71a5d36fcbab170f2364c9f2e3946cb.gif

 

[IgnoreMe 5,000+ posts]

Several people deny Ohm's Law every day on the forums. Did you not know that it's just theory, and in real life Ohm's Law doesn't even matter?
//content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/biggrin.gif.d71a5d36fcbab170f2364c9f2e3946cb.gif

i cant tell if your kidding or being serious. this ones got me stumped

 

[benzmansl65amg 10+ year member]

My question has brought on some serious flaming lol

 

[PSturmer 10+ year member]

Then you amp is not drawing a lot of current continuously.
I=P/V=5000/14= 357 amps

I don't see your electrical system being able to produce that power for very long, especially since this is assuming 100% efficiency.

i have a kinetik hc2400 and a hc2000 and a stock alt. my voltage gets to 12.2 on a song, thats what it is. car off on a burp i go to 11.5

 

[roarzorz 10+ year member]

With a Red Top under the hood and one run of RF 2/0 powering a pair of RF T1000s (good for 1500watts each) my lights were dimming bad with the stock 160a alternator. I was thinking it was bad grounds in the back so I added a second run of RF 2/0 as a ground from the battery to the back and it didn't make any difference. My voltage still dropped, my lights still dimmed, and my spl scores didn't change. So next I added a pair of Yellow Tops to the back and problem solved.

Quality 1/0 wire is good for 3000-3500watts of power depending of strand count.

 

[dB-SPL 10+ year member]

With a Red Top under the hood and one run of RF 2/0 powering a pair of RF T1000s (good for 1500watts each) my lights were dimming bad with the stock 160a alternator. I was thinking it was bad grounds in the back so I added a second run of RF 2/0 as a ground from the battery to the back and it didn't make any difference. My voltage still dropped, my lights still dimmed, and my spl scores didn't change. So next I added a pair of Yellow Tops to the back and problem solved.
Quality 1/0 wire is good for 3000-3500watts of power depending of strand count.

Why would you run a 10'-15' ground.. Then, expect to gain dB's?

-Bill-

 

[TreyE 10+ year member]

Why would you run a 10'-15' ground.. Then, expect to gain dB's?
-Bill-

the ground from the front battery is the best ground anywhere in the car...//content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/fyi.gif.9f1f679348da7204ce960cfc74bca8e0.gif

 

[dB-SPL 10+ year member]

the ground from the front battery is the best ground anywhere in the car...//content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/fyi.gif.9f1f679348da7204ce960cfc74bca8e0.gif

After upgrading the 'Big 3' there's plenty of body to ground to. So, I see it useless to run a full length ground unless you have a batt bank in the back. I guess this is one of the many 'debatable' things of car audio..

-Bill-

 

[TreyE 10+ year member]

After upgrading the 'Big 3' there's plenty of body to ground to. So, I see it useless to run a full length ground unless you have a batt bank in the back. I guess this is one of the many 'debatable' things of car audio..
-Bill-

Oh shit yea i didnt see he had no batteries at the time. lol that is stupid nevermind ur right

 

[benzmansl65amg 10+ year member]

good insight

 

[roarzorz 10+ year member]

Why would you run a 10'-15' ground.. Then, expect to gain dB's?
-Bill-

I wasn't expecting any gains. It was only to rule out the possibility of a bad ground causing my dimming. The post was mainly in reference to someone saying that the op should do 1 run of power and 1 run of ground. I believe doing a full run of ground wire is overkill.

 

[audioholic 5,000+ posts]

Running a ground back to the batt instead of relying on a chassis ground may be a good thing. Depending on the vehicle, some have more resistance to electrical flow in their chassis than others do. Unibody vehicles versus full frames vehicles, for example. I wouldn't hesitate to use a frame rail as a conductor, but unibody cars I would certainly consider running a dedicated ground cable. Especially if I was having a problem with mysterious voltage drop.

 

[IgnoreMe 5,000+ posts]

Why would you run a 10'-15' ground.. Then, expect to gain dB's?
-Bill-

i dont think he expected to gain....not to mention going straight to the battery gives you the best ground possible. can you use the chassis? sure, if you are positive thats there is no resistance. hell i have it grounded to my chassis as well, just because i have checked to see that my resistance is 0.

either way i dont see how using 1/0 ground all the way back to your amps is bad when electricity runs from - to +...

in a sense, your + is basically what we as people consider ground anyways (meaning the flow terminates there, well it doesnt terminate there but im sure you understand what i mean)...and you dont people suggesting under 3' power runs.

 

[audioholic 5,000+ posts]

There is no such thing as 0 resistance.

A circuit is a loop. It doesn't matter if the electrons start at the pos or neg, they still travel the exact same path way. This should not factor into how, or how big, you run your ground or power wire. Keep the circuit loop as short as possible, realistically minimizing resistance.