3 way front stage, sanity check, please.

[jmc0369]

This is going into a 2003 F250 extended cab. I'm thinking the 6.5's replacing stocker 5x7 doors, nothing i the rear, and the tweets in the sail panels with the mids in the corners at the Apiller and windshield on the dash (or swap the location with the tweets.)

Head unit Pioneer deh-x8800bhs
Boss BX35 crossover (I have this on the shelf)

600 to a Soundstream D60ll ( I have this Amp on the shelf) with one channel passively crossed > 6khz to Dayton AMTPOD air motion automotive tweets and the other channel passively low passed <6khz to Tang Band 2x3 mid-driver

Woofer signal 70hz-600hz through Soundstream D100ll amp and Dayton DC160 8 ohm 6.5" drivers ( have these woofers and amp already on the shelf)

Sub signal going to a JL Audio slash 250/1 (I have this amp) and Dayton UM8-22 8" subwoofer in a sealed .35 cf3 enclosure.

Am i overlooking anything aside from the siring, fuses etc?

Thanks in advance..

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[Popwarhomie 5,000+ posts]

A good DSP.

 

[Firewalker]

Dump the crossover and go active with the 3 way and do it with a good dsp as pop said. I would personally go with 4 ohm 6.5" drivers instead of 8 ohm. Also make sure you have enough depth as those 5x7/6x8's that ford put in there are not deep and ford doesn't give much depth in the doors as others. I have an '03 Explorer and without a adapter to mount the 6.5" in along with it being 1" thick to give some more space I would never get my set of stevens 6.5" midbass in. Max depth iirc is around 2.75 inches give or take.

 

[jmc0369]

Thanks for the feed back. I had originally planned on dayton 408 or the like, but remembered the Boss XO and looked at as an opportunity to save a few bucks. I have the 8 ohm 6.5s so its hard to justify buying the RS180 or RS225 right now. You can swap the power window motors from left to right and right to left and gain an inch and a quarter in mounting depth. But I intend to make an MDF baffle there. Unless I did get the 8 then just mount it on the door panel.

Any thoughts on the tweets on the dash vs the sail vs the mid on the sail panel?

Thanks for y'alls input.

 

[SlugButter]

I would do a DSP also if you can. I love the equipment you chose. I am also running the Dayton ultimax 8, and I adapted my 6x9 locations to accept 2 Dayton 4 inch woofers (40 rms each) in each door paired with Dayton soft dome tweeters. I am using tang band products for Bluetooth builds, and they make really solid products. I’m using the PRV 1.8 DSP. I just think you’d get far better sound quality with a DSP instead of passive crossovers. Your system has the potential to sound absolutely superb.

 

[SlugButter]

You’ll like that sub sealed also. It also does super well in 4th order bandpass. I decided to try it in 1 cube at 30 hz just to test it out, but I’m going to buy a second one and run them in .8 sealed instead. It’s just such an impressive sounding sub in a sealed enclosure. It’s ok ported, but it loses its superb SQ qualities without a ton of extra output. I’m going back to sealed with it.

 

[Firewalker]

I wouldn't go MDF baffle that will not last long. Contact the guy here at ebay and he can make custom 3D printed adapters. He did custom pods for me for 25 bucks and did 2 sets of 6x8 adapters one being 1" thick and other standard for 28 bucks shipped. Also Boss isn't all that good of a choice. DSP is the way to go by far.

Also in close to 20 some years selling auto parts, truck parts and working in other parts areas. I have never seen or heard of a window motor on a Ford being able to put from drivers side to passenger side. I just replaced the one in my drivers side rear and it was not the same as the ones on the passenger side. Now same for both front and back yes. But windows motors 99% of the time are not interchangeable from drivers side to passenger side. And just confirmed they are not the same for drivers side and passenger side. Never heard of gaining depth either that way.

If you have a 3D file from somewhere else he can use that as well. I did a thread that shows those adapters.

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[jmc0369]

You’ll like that sub sealed also. It also does super well in 4th order bandpass. I decided to try it in 1 cube at 30 hz just to test it out, but I’m going to buy a second one and run them in .8 sealed instead. It’s just such an impressive sounding sub in a sealed enclosure. It’s ok ported, but it loses its superb SQ qualities without a ton of extra output. I’m going back to sealed with it.

I am anxious to hear your analysis of the sub in the larger sealed enclosure. I have the space to go larger than .3. The feedback here has been confidence-building to go ahead and start tearing the truck apart. Thank you.

 

[jmc0369]

I wouldn't go MDF baffle that will not last long. Contact the guy here at ebay and he can make custom 3D printed adapters. He did custom pods for me for 25 bucks and did 2 sets of 6x8 adapters one being 1" thick and other standard for 28 bucks shipped. Also Boss isn't all that good of a choice. DSP is the way to go by far.

Also in close to 20 some years selling auto parts, truck parts and working in other parts areas. I have never seen or heard of a window motor on a Ford being able to put from drivers side to passenger side. I just replaced the one in my drivers side rear and it was not the same as the ones on the passenger side. Now same for both front and back yes. But windows motors 99% of the time are not interchangeable from drivers side to passenger side. And just confirmed they are not the same for drivers side and passenger side. Never heard of gaining depth either that way.

If you have a 3D file from somewhere else he can use that as well. I did a thread that shows those adapters.

Electronics, Cars, Fashion, Collectibles & More | eBay

Buy & sell electronics, cars, clothes, collectibles & more on eBay, the world's online marketplace. Top brands, low prices & free shipping on many items.

rover.ebay.com

Thanks for the contact/link.

I saw the window motor swap on one of the Super Duty forums. It was specific to ford super duty trucks and yes, the part number is different. The guy did a photo log of the procedure. In the end, he just had to reverse the wiring to get the motor to turn in the correct orientation. You can see in the pics that it moves the motor out of the speaker hole and with some of the doorskin cutaway, offered a lot of room for up to an 8" driver. I would love to put the Dayton reference 8 in there, but that money will now most certainly go to a DSP.

 

[jmc0369]

I wouldn't go MDF baffle that will not last long. Contact the guy here at ebay and he can make custom 3D printed adapters. He did custom pods for me for 25 bucks and did 2 sets of 6x8 adapters one being 1" thick and other standard for 28 bucks shipped. Also Boss isn't all that good of a choice. DSP is the way to go by far.

Also in close to 20 some years selling auto parts, truck parts and working in other parts areas. I have never seen or heard of a window motor on a Ford being able to put from drivers side to passenger side. I just replaced the one in my drivers side rear and it was not the same as the ones on the passenger side. Now same for both front and back yes. But windows motors 99% of the time are not interchangeable from drivers side to passenger side. And just confirmed they are not the same for drivers side and passenger side. Never heard of gaining depth either that way.

If you have a 3D file from somewhere else he can use that as well. I did a thread that shows those adapters.

Electronics, Cars, Fashion, Collectibles & More | eBay

Buy & sell electronics, cars, clothes, collectibles & more on eBay, the world's online marketplace. Top brands, low prices & free shipping on many items.

rover.ebay.com

Here's that write up

Neat trick for fitting big speakers into Superduty doors...

www.powerstrokenation.com

 

[hispls 5,000+ posts]

Definitely don't mix and match drivers with passive crossovers as nothing is designed to mate well with anything else. Otherwise with enough DSP you can probably get it to work just fine. I'm using Kicker tweets that came with a handy pod that mounted on the door panel itself up high by the little panel that pops off to pull the door. I'd totally consider doing 3 way with building that little panel out to accept a 3" driver and putting the tweet right next to it using the factory hole for mid. Not sure how much room you have between the steel of that door and the panel so you may wind up doing some cutting of the panel to fit anything substantial behind there. I'm using 5x7 drivers in the factory holes and they're right snug to the door panel, I don't see how you're going to add some sort of spacer and not run into clearance problems. Do post pics as you go, as I may be doing a big build in mine if I have time at which point the current fronts will want upgrading.

 

[jmc0369]

Definitely don't mix and match drivers with passive crossovers as nothing is designed to mate well with anything else. Otherwise with enough DSP you can probably get it to work just fine. I'm using Kicker tweets that came with a handy pod that mounted on the door panel itself up high by the little panel that pops off to pull the door. I'd totally consider doing 3 way with building that little panel out to accept a 3" driver and putting the tweet right next to it using the factory hole for mid. Not sure how much room you have between the steel of that door and the panel so you may wind up doing some cutting of the panel to fit anything substantial behind there. I'm using 5x7 drivers in the factory holes and they're right snug to the door panel, I don't see how you're going to add some sort of spacer and not run into clearance problems. Do post pics as you go, as I may be doing a big build in mine if I have time at which point the current fronts will want upgrading.

Are you speaking about a Super Duty truck? What year?