the idea is to keep the voltage as stable and as close to 14.4 (WITH ENGINE ON ) and 12 V (WITH ENGINE OFF) .
power physics works like this as voltage drops amps increase, as voltage increases amps decrease.
when the car is running you are running off of the alt, unless your voltage dips below 12v then you are running on batt power.
the advantage of a second battery (in the rear) is that you have a 12v source on tap close to the amplifiers to help stabalize voltage.
also in a 2 batt set up you can put an isolator inbetween the batteries that turns off 1 battery when the car is off so that you can run it dead and still be able to start your car.
also a second battery like a kinetik has a better discharge rate then your standard battery so it gives up amperage faster then the stock one can.
kinetiks are also good for having a higher "sitting" voltage, my hc1800 meters 13.3 or so with the car off. that alone gives your amps a benefit.
less amperage draw doesnt make the amp work as hard to creat the same power, and allows the amp to run cooler.
so if you have a good amount of current draw that is needed by your amps a second batt will help out good, a new alt would be good to, but a stock alt shouldnt have a problem keeping both batteries charged unless you are just crancking your stereo for hours on end then eventually you will run both batts dead and literally running the amps straight off of the alt and kill the alt
power physics works like this as voltage drops amps increase, as voltage increases amps decrease.
when the car is running you are running off of the alt, unless your voltage dips below 12v then you are running on batt power.
the advantage of a second battery (in the rear) is that you have a 12v source on tap close to the amplifiers to help stabalize voltage.
also in a 2 batt set up you can put an isolator inbetween the batteries that turns off 1 battery when the car is off so that you can run it dead and still be able to start your car.
also a second battery like a kinetik has a better discharge rate then your standard battery so it gives up amperage faster then the stock one can.
kinetiks are also good for having a higher "sitting" voltage, my hc1800 meters 13.3 or so with the car off. that alone gives your amps a benefit.
less amperage draw doesnt make the amp work as hard to creat the same power, and allows the amp to run cooler.
so if you have a good amount of current draw that is needed by your amps a second batt will help out good, a new alt would be good to, but a stock alt shouldnt have a problem keeping both batteries charged unless you are just crancking your stereo for hours on end then eventually you will run both batts dead and literally running the amps straight off of the alt and kill the alt
johnecon2001
5,000+ posts
SSA/ROE Super-Møderator
good stuff.
The purpose behind a 2nd battery should be to provide a greater current for the car when the car is turned off, or when your system is so large you can’t find a high output alternator to supply current for the load.
Batteries with supposed low ESR’s like Kinetic (which doesn’t mean anything because a single ESR value with no data surrounding it means nothing), would have non-noticeable increases in current output vs a standard battery. Discharge rate of a battery is basically governed by the circuit resistance; reaction time (how fast the battery can begin to discharge as compared to the load) is governed by the chemical reaction; ESR is a factor in telling you how much current can be discharged per change in potential.
Like was said, your car’s electrical should be running off your alternator (you may experience voltage drops near the batteries potential for a fraction of a second if you have high duty large loads), if it’s not you’ll experience very noticeable dimming and various things with various electronic components.
Batteries with supposed low ESR’s like Kinetic (which doesn’t mean anything because a single ESR value with no data surrounding it means nothing), would have non-noticeable increases in current output vs a standard battery. Discharge rate of a battery is basically governed by the circuit resistance; reaction time (how fast the battery can begin to discharge as compared to the load) is governed by the chemical reaction; ESR is a factor in telling you how much current can be discharged per change in potential.
Like was said, your car’s electrical should be running off your alternator (you may experience voltage drops near the batteries potential for a fraction of a second if you have high duty large loads), if it’s not you’ll experience very noticeable dimming and various things with various electronic components.
it can for the most part yes but thats also dependant on what condition your alt is in and how often you crank up the system and the conditions in which you do. say you have a 105 amp alt and a 2000 watt set up if your alt is in good order and you dont jam on it other than showing it off or for breif times its ok. when i say that i mean most of the time you listen to it at a normal level where you can hear people talk in the car. a higher output alt is a way to go as well but it has its limits in use without a good battery or batteries.
- Thread Starter
- #8
I believe my alternator is 120 amps. And im running a hifonics bx1605d powering two L5s at times my voltage drops in the high 11s but only for a split second. At idle I run 14.5 volts but with the system goin it stays in the 12s.
Would getting or adding another battery help me?
Would getting or adding another battery help me?
Mr Bojangles
10+ year member
Bullhockey
I'm running 1200w rms. My lights dim and my batt needle drops alot when car is running.. Would another battery help or a bigger alternator? I have a cherokee with a stock alternator and i don't know the specs on the alternator but i don't think it's alot..
it would help it stay out of the 11's while it was charged for sure. also depends on what your listening habits are. if you are listening to it at moderate levels most of the time it should work in that aspect(so it can keep the extra battery charged). where an alt will help is when the car is running at enough rpm to match the output of the system (depending on the alt) that could be 1000 rpm or as high as 3k rpm from the ones i have seen. if you are doing the upgrade to keep your amps safe a battery is what i always have done (i have had smaller alts in a few of my cars with almost as much potential draw) and didnt have any problems. i never cared how high i metered in spl and i did'nt listen too it as loud as it could go or even almost as loud as it could go for a very large percentage of the time either. basically listened to it loud in parking lots or couple laps (15-20 min)while cruising town thats about it.
Well lets see some tests, lets see some numbers, lets see anything besides someone’s opinion which refutes any logical or realistic reasoning.
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2nd batteries or larger batteries aren't going to stop voltage drops (lights dimming).
The only way you guys are going to stop these is upgrading your alternator, and increasing your wiring sizes.
Use a wire ga chart online to find the wire sizes which support under a .2Vdrop, and pick an alternator based on your total loads.
The only way you guys are going to stop these is upgrading your alternator, and increasing your wiring sizes.
Use a wire ga chart online to find the wire sizes which support under a .2Vdrop, and pick an alternator based on your total loads.
and second battery will only help solve the problem, you really cant solve light dimming with 1 thing.
the second battery will help you stabalize your voltage, but only to a point. it helps stabalize your voltage in that fact that you have more amperage at you disposal.
remove as the voltage goes down the current (amps) goes up, and when the volts goes up the current goes down.
a second battery is most useful when running the stereo with the car off, when the car is on it is running off alt power, if the car is running and the voltage dips below 12v, you are running off of battery, it is there to help pick up the slack fro the alt.
if your only consern is light dimming and dont really care jsut throw a small cap on the power wire of the headlight then, itll solve the headlight dimming, but you stil have a problem.
also people in competition (im talking heavy hitters) the only real reason they get a big alt is to charge all those batteries.
i mean thing about it lets say you are running multiple amps and the current draw from the amps is 500amps or more, whats more locical to do? add more batteries or get several alt that can put out over 500 amps? you would need about 3 alts for that atleast and thats assuming that each alt can put out almost 200 amps at idle, which i dont know any that can do that.
for the daily driver that has light dimming, get a better battery or a second battery and upgrade the alt and do the big 3, and your problem will be solved.
also if you are your voltage is dipping below 12v you are putting some serious stess on your amps power supply, youll end up getting leaking caps, blown transformers and other stuff.
its all simple physics dont complicate it you have X amount of current draw from your amps, you need to be able to supply it with that curent draw, safely
actually a couple of batteries wirred in parellel will actually lower the resistance (think amplifier power you lower the load (ohm) and the amp is able to push more power) this theoretical speaking
guys there is no cheap way to do it just do it rigth the first time. an alt and a bettery battery
and for everyones information think about this one.
regular car battery= good for surge's (like starting a car
a yellow/red top deep cycle battery= good for constant power drains(like a car stereo)
blue top= deep cycle/surge battery
so what in reallity is better for a 1 battery car? the blue top, yes a marine battery
over time using a yellow/red top battery as a main battery you will either shorten its life by quite a bit or you will "retrain" your deep cycle battery for a surge battery
just something to think about.
the second battery will help you stabalize your voltage, but only to a point. it helps stabalize your voltage in that fact that you have more amperage at you disposal.
remove as the voltage goes down the current (amps) goes up, and when the volts goes up the current goes down.
a second battery is most useful when running the stereo with the car off, when the car is on it is running off alt power, if the car is running and the voltage dips below 12v, you are running off of battery, it is there to help pick up the slack fro the alt.
if your only consern is light dimming and dont really care jsut throw a small cap on the power wire of the headlight then, itll solve the headlight dimming, but you stil have a problem.
also people in competition (im talking heavy hitters) the only real reason they get a big alt is to charge all those batteries.
i mean thing about it lets say you are running multiple amps and the current draw from the amps is 500amps or more, whats more locical to do? add more batteries or get several alt that can put out over 500 amps? you would need about 3 alts for that atleast and thats assuming that each alt can put out almost 200 amps at idle, which i dont know any that can do that.
for the daily driver that has light dimming, get a better battery or a second battery and upgrade the alt and do the big 3, and your problem will be solved.
also if you are your voltage is dipping below 12v you are putting some serious stess on your amps power supply, youll end up getting leaking caps, blown transformers and other stuff.
its all simple physics dont complicate it you have X amount of current draw from your amps, you need to be able to supply it with that curent draw, safely
actually a couple of batteries wirred in parellel will actually lower the resistance (think amplifier power you lower the load (ohm) and the amp is able to push more power) this theoretical speaking
guys there is no cheap way to do it just do it rigth the first time. an alt and a bettery battery
and for everyones information think about this one.
regular car battery= good for surge's (like starting a car
a yellow/red top deep cycle battery= good for constant power drains(like a car stereo)
blue top= deep cycle/surge battery
so what in reallity is better for a 1 battery car? the blue top, yes a marine battery
over time using a yellow/red top battery as a main battery you will either shorten its life by quite a bit or you will "retrain" your deep cycle battery for a surge battery
just something to think about.
lets see Scott Owens, Kyle Witherspoon, Danny Britain, Steve Cook, Terry and Miranda Jackson, Jay Odom, Mark Holbrook, Scott Van Ripper, Team Walrus, Neil Barber, Eddie Dejesus and MANY MORE. any of those names ring a bell? here's a hint they don't use die hard.
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