2015 Tacoma Speaker Pods

[AnthonyO 10+ year member]

Dual 6.50 in Speaker Pods compatible with the Front Door of a 05-15 Toyota Tacoma | Custom Speaker Pods

Dual 6.50 in Speaker Pods compatible with the Front Door of a 05-15 Toyota Tacoma

customspeakerpods.com

If I went this route and ran 2 6.5 mid bass and a tweeter in factory location. Could I run a single passive crossover and wire the two 6.5's to the one passive? Or would you just use bass blockers for mids and tweeter and get rid of the passive crossover?

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[AnthonyO 10+ year member]

Or, I could use my 4 channel AudioControl ACM 4.300 to just run the front doors. And use the on board crossover from that and use a bass blocker on the tweeter. But then I would be running my rears off radio power.

 

[Doxquzme Premium Member]

I would think (not knowing what the head unit output is) that it's never a great idea to use one's HU in combination with a much more powerful amp for driving anything other than maybe a highly efficient set of tweeters crossed appropriately and IMHO, definitely NOT a set of full range speakers, even just for fill. Not sure what the goal is, but you can (or I can help) design a two-way crossover for anything you end up wanting to do. I would definitely use the AC amp for everything you mentioned here. It's a rather underrated little amp and its output in 4-channel mode or bridged is likely going to dwarf anything the HU uses.

Assuming the 6.5" drivers are both 4 ohms and you are considering running them parallel (2 ohms to the amp) you'll have to run the amp in 4 channel mode as the minimum load on this AC amp is 4 ohms in bridged mode. If the output of the HU is in the 40watt range (Unusual) you could run 2 channels of the AC amp to the rears (at 4 ohms), 2 channels to the front dual 6.5" drivers at 2ohms a side, and run the output from the HU to the tweeters up front. In order to configure the high pass crossover (bass blocker=high pass crossover) for the tweeters, would just need to know which tweeters you intend to use and I could design a simple 12 or 18db crossover circuit to wire inline with the tweeters to give the desired frequency. Depending on the 6.5" drivers used, you should be able to set the xover on the amp (subsonic) and let them roll off naturally. In any case, the xover points will depend on the drivers used, more specifically, how low the tweeter can be crossed at.

Again, unless there is a good amount of wattage coming from the HU (at least 15- 20 watts) then even the tweeter thing is a no-go for me. Personally, I would run everything off the AC amp in 4-channel mode using a passive crossover up front.

 

[AnthonyO 10+ year member]

I'm tempted to run two sets of these and eliminate the tweeter in factory location.

CDT Audio ES-6CX

 

[HardofWhoring]

Dual 6.50 in Speaker Pods compatible with the Front Door of a 05-15 Toyota Tacoma | Custom Speaker Pods

Dual 6.50 in Speaker Pods compatible with the Front Door of a 05-15 Toyota Tacoma

customspeakerpods.com

If I went this route and ran 2 6.5 mid bass and a tweeter in factory location. Could I run a single passive crossover and wire the two 6.5's to the one passive? Or would you just use bass blockers for mids and tweeter and get rid of the passive crossover?

No, and no.
If you ran two mids and one tweet with one crossover, you'd cut the power to the mids in half, but not the tweeter.
Nor would I use bass blockers. You're wasting the unused frequency range and the power for it.

With those, door pods, either:
Run one set of components with a crossover, and use the other hole for just a mid, OR
Run two sets of components with two mids, two tweets, and two crossovers. You would use a 4ch amp for the front doors/4 sets.

Don't know about your rears, maybe HU power, maybe another amp.

 

[HardofWhoring]

I'm tempted to run two sets of these and eliminate the tweeter in factory location.

CDT Audio ES-6CX

Where is the mounting location for the tweeter now compared to where it would be when it's mounted with these. I'd bet you're putting the tweeters in a worse location. Wouldn't they be lower, and more likely blocked by people (more often)?

 

[AnthonyO 10+ year member]

Where is the mounting location for the tweeter now compared to where it would be when it's mounted with these. I'd bet you're putting the tweeters in a worse location. Wouldn't they be lower, and more likely blocked by people (more often)?

 

[AnthonyO 10+ year member]

As you can see the factory location is high on the door.

 

[Doxquzme Premium Member]

You might want to consider just running the coaxial speakers all the way around. Those CDT drivers are pretty decent. Use the AC to all four of the coaxial speakers. Most of the time, the reason one runs duals (any) like this is for SPL or to keep up with super efficient bullet tweeters, and running single AC 4.300 isn’t what I would ever call an SPL amplifier, even bridged. In no scenario can I see running dual coaxial in a dual same location for anything other than SPL, just don’t consider it if you want good sound. IF you want to run mid or mid-bass duals, that’s fine, use the subsonic filter on the amp and let them roll off naturally. At 2 ohms overall (even when using a tweeter in the mix) you will have substantial output from this little amp up front and then the rears will produce good fill with the other two channels. You can set the gains for favorable fade then fine-tune with the HU. Assuming you go with the dual (non-coaxial) 6.5"rs and the tweeters, I would put the tweeter in the upper door, as you want to be as close as you can to the midbass drivers.

taking another look at that door, you might want to consider getting a nice 2 ohm 6x9 (using an adaptor for the 6x8 or 5x7 opening) comp set for the front like these:

VSP69KIT2F 900W Peak (300W RMS) 6x9" 2-Ohm V-Series 2-Way Component Speakers with 25mm Silk Dome Tweeters

Product Details: 6" x 9" V Series 2-way Component System Car Speakers Power Handling: Peak: 900 watts per set / 450 watts each side RMS: 300 watts per set / 150 watts each side Polypropylene cone material Nitrile Butadiene Rubber NBR speaker surround 1" Silk Dome Tweeters CEA-2031 compliant: Yes...

nvx.com

And a matching set of 2-ohm coaxials for the rear (or their 5.25" counterparts) like these:

https://nvx.com/collections/v-serie...mponent-speakers-with-25mm-silk-dome-tweeters

I think that watt for buck, this would be a better option than any of the aforementioned configurations and provide very good SQ with the added volume of having 2ohm output all around. ;_

 

[AnthonyO 10+ year member]

You might want to consider just running the coaxial speakers all the way around. Those Cadence drivers are pretty decent. Use the AC to all four of the coaxial speakers. Most of the time, the reason one runs duals (any) like this is for SPL or to keep up with super efficient bullet tweeters, and running single AC 4.300 isn’t what I would ever call an SPL amplifier, even bridged. In no scenario can I see running dual coaxial in a dual same location for anything other than SPL, just don’t consider it if you want good sound. IF you want to run mid or mid-bass duals, that’s fine, use the subsonic filter on the amp and let them roll off naturally. At 2 ohms overall (even when using a tweeter in the mix) you will have substantial output from this little amp up front and then the rears will produce good fill with the other two channels. You can set the gains for favorable fade then fine-tune with the HU. Assuming you go with the dual (non-coaxial) 6.5"rs and the tweeters, I would put the tweeter in the upper door, as you want to be as close as you can to the midbass drivers.

taking another look at that door, you might want to consider getting a nice 2 ohm 6x9 (using an adaptor for the 6x8 or 5x7 opening) comp set for the front like these:

VSP69KIT2F 900W Peak (300W RMS) 6x9" 2-Ohm V-Series 2-Way Component Speakers with 25mm Silk Dome Tweeters

Product Details: 6" x 9" V Series 2-way Component System Car Speakers Power Handling: Peak: 900 watts per set / 450 watts each side RMS: 300 watts per set / 150 watts each side Polypropylene cone material Nitrile Butadiene Rubber NBR speaker surround 1" Silk Dome Tweeters CEA-2031 compliant: Yes...

nvx.com

And a matching set of 2-ohm coaxials for the rear (or their 5.25" counterparts) like these:

https://nvx.com/collections/v-serie...mponent-speakers-with-25mm-silk-dome-tweeters

I think that watt for buck, this would be a better option than any of the aforementioned configurations and provide very good SQ with the added volume of having 2ohm output all around. ;_

I have 6.75" components up front and 6.75" coaxials in the rear. I am more looking for more midbass. What I have now sounds decent, but could definitely use more

 

[Doxquzme Premium Member]

What model are the components and what are the dual 6.5" drivers you want to use? The ones in the picture are really professional-style midrange drivers, they play well from about 100-150Hz to 8000hz, not exactly midbass, more like low-mid to mid-high. You would not get a lot of that 40-100Hz punch from those drivers. At 92.5db, two of them in parallel will be too loud for normal dome tweeters to keep up. Are you thinking that you want to add the duals to your existing comps?

 

[AnthonyO 10+ year member]

Right now I am running Rockford Fosgate T1675-S front and R1675 coaxials in the rear

 

[Doxquzme Premium Member]

There really isn’t a great way to integrate anything into these comp setups. You would be best served to get an amp for the rear fill and bridge the output to the front comps with the AC 4.300. This is by far the least expensive option and provides great results.

A Taramps TS 400x4 bridged to the rear will give you 200 watts x 2 (versus 50x2)and they are very cheap.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/1857606072...d=link&campid=5335951755&toolid=20001&mkevt=1

Run the AC 4.300, bridged up front, stats say it will give you 150x2 bridged but it routinely exceeds that rating when tested, more like 200x2 so a decent match.

You have the ability on the RF crossover to manipulate the output of the tweeter by what appears to be 4db down from flat which would allow you to turn them down ( I know it says +2/0/-2 but what that means is the +2 is actually flat and the 0 is down 2db and the -2 is down 4db), you cannot actually increase the efficiency of a driver after the fact but it makes sense to those not familiar with the physics.

Having 3 times the wattage and quieting the tweeter setting on the crossover would effectively give you an increase in the midwoofer output relative to the tweeter turned down to the -2db setting. You also get the added volume without screwing up the soundstage and imaging. You could play with the tweeter setting as often just getting a lot more power will provide you with what you think you are missing anyway.

Otherwise, I’d be rethinking the entire set-up for the speakers like the 2ohm comps I already mentioned. Adding duals of another brand and type and then trying to integrate the tweeters and crossovers is a best-guess proposition with a possible not-so-great end result.

The RF's you are using are nice speakers. This would certainly allow you to enjoy them at much higher volumes.

 

[audiobaun 5,000+ posts]

As you can see the factory location is high on the door.

What Size is that Tweeter location in the upper door card?. You havent bought the dual Pods yet have you?. At one point in one my 98 Chevy Xcabs I ran a set of CDT Braxial(On Sale atm.. Mine were almost $500 bucks when I bought my first set) components and a set of DRT25 tweets on a 4ch up front( PPI Phantom 900.4) with a single 1k substage(XFL12 DVC2,and PPI Phantom 1000.1D) and it sounded really nice for my temp system until I went Bigger, and then added a set of CDT M6 eurosport mids on a PPI Phantom 600.2 in the doors close to the upper portion of the Brax. set pretty much these now
https://www.cdtaudio.com/sep_components/midwoofers/es06.php

CDT Audio HD-62 Braxial

CDT Audio DRT-25

But i think It would be nice to do the Braxials in the doors and if you have the space or dont mind trimming a bit to squeeze the Mid Tweet combo 2" in there. I think that would be a really nice setup, and just get some Polk DB 6.5 coax and run the rears off HU power with an inline Bass cap on those.

CDT Audio HD-2X

Amazon product ASIN B000P0PF9G
Amazon product ASIN B009D9IGIM

 

[audiobaun 5,000+ posts]

What Size is that Tweeter location in the upper door card?. You havent bought the dual Pods yet have you?. At one point in one my 98 Chevy Xcabs I ran a set of CDT Braxial(On Sale atm.. Mine were almost $500 bucks when I bought my first set) components and a set of DRT25 tweets on a 4ch up front( PPI Phantom 900.4) with a single 1k substage(XFL12 DVC2,and PPI Phantom 1000.1D) and it sounded really nice for my temp system until I went Bigger, and then added a set of CDT M6 eurosport mids on a PPI Phantom 600.2 in the doors close to the upper portion of the Brax. set pretty much these now
https://www.cdtaudio.com/sep_components/midwoofers/es06.php

CDT Audio HD-62 Braxial

CDT Audio DRT-25

But i think It would be nice to do the Braxials in the doors and if you have the space or dont mind trimming a bit to squeeze the Mid Tweet combo 2" in there. I think that would be a really nice setup, and just get some Polk DB 6.5 coax and run the rears off HU power with an inline Bass cap on those.

CDT Audio HD-2X

Amazon product ASIN B000P0PF9G
Amazon product ASIN B009D9IGIM

Not sure why Amazon keeps doing this to me when trying to Copy and Paste?? gets on my nerves for sure.. LOL

Amazon product ASIN B000P0PF9G
Anyways its These for the rear doors. And Amazon has them for like $58 bucks. Dammned good speakers for the $

Polk Audio DB651 DB Series 6.5" 6.5 inch 2-Way Car Marine Audio Speakers 60W RMS 747192112776 | eBay

Polk Audio DB651 6.5" 2-Way Car Marine Audio Speakers. Model: DB651. RMS: 120 watts per pair / 60 watts each. Peak: 360 watts per pair / 180 watts each. Frequency response: 35Hz - 22,000Hz. SPEAKER GRILLS INCLUDED!

www.ebay.com