2013 Chevy Cruze

[tat2bass 10+ year member]

Going to be doing a full install minus sound deadening for now for a friend of mine starting next weekend. List below

H/U-Pioneer AVH 1400

Front-Pioneer TS-D1720C's

Rear-matching pioneer CoAx

Hi Amp- MB Quart ONX4.125

Subs- 2 JL 12W3'sv3 sealed in 2.25 cf

Sub amp- MB Quart ONX 1600.1D

Definitely a budget build. I sold him a lot of my old equipment really cheap and doing the install for free.

My question is, has anyone else done an install on this car? Is there anything that I need to know about first that might cause problems. I already got the harness for onstar integration. It is the base model cruze also. Thanks

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[tat2bass 10+ year member]

Bump

 

[joselr3668 10+ year member]

my friend has that car and we just started on it and we have had a bunch of problems with the factory integration everything is tied in together

 

[tat2bass 10+ year member]

my friend has that car and we just started on it and we have had a bunch of problems with the factory integration everything is tied in together

Yeah, that seems to be the only problem I see right away. But we got the wire harness that is just plug and play and still keeps the integration. Costs a lot, but he was willing to pay for it for the simplicity of it.

The doors and trim pieces and all pretty easy to get off?

Where did you feed your power through the firewall? How bad was it? Seems to have a pretty small engine bay

 

[winkychevelle 10+ year member]

If it is an auto trans look under the dash for a metal plug plate where the clutch should be, unbolt it and then go unde the hood pry the metal retaining clips off the antifreeze tank then rotate the tank out of the way. Retrieve blank clutch play drill hole for power wire reverse direction for reinstallation. The trunk is solid so it takes a good bit to be loud. The door are just pop serts iirc just look for hidden screws. You will have to make a spacer plate for the speakers and possibly trunk the door card for them to fit right. Idk about this as I wrecked my Cruze before installing door speakers. For door deadening remember the bottle holder pushes into the door frame, I laid my deadener flat cut an x were the bottle holder was and put another sheet of deadener on the new pocket.

This car cannot run mor than 1200w the alternator turns off most if the time the engine is running so he will see 12.8v a lot unless he gets a new alt and regulator. Excessive amperage did tell me he could make a 200amp alt for it and provide a regulator for the new alt but pricey like 900-1k iirc

They have like 4 inches of styrofoam under the carpet so they have plenty of room for wires

WARNING do not remove back seats they are the biggest pain in the behind to put back in and it is unnecessary. They have plenty if room in the kick panels to hide modules or excess wire

I did well with an up fire ported box but the typical rear fire box should work great I just had an oddly shaped box that fit up against the seats floor to top. Ground close to the back seats but not under the back seats and use 1inch or less self taps as that is close to the fuel tank. I actually bolted under the spare tire but that created an awkward wire that was too long.

Any questions specifically just ask idk about the in dash install mine was factory integrated with an req5 but I have no prob trying my best to answer any question

 

[tat2bass 10+ year member]

If it is an auto trans look under the dash for a metal plug plate where the clutch should be, unbolt it and then go unde the hood pry the metal retaining clips off the antifreeze tank then rotate the tank out of the way. Retrieve blank clutch play drill hole for power wire reverse direction for reinstallation. The trunk is solid so it takes a good bit to be loud. The door are just pop serts iirc just look for hidden screws. You will have to make a spacer plate for the speakers and possibly trunk the door card for them to fit right. Idk about this as I wrecked my Cruze before installing door speakers. For door deadening remember the bottle holder pushes into the door frame, I laid my deadener flat cut an x were the bottle holder was and put another sheet of deadener on the new pocket.
This car cannot run mor than 1200w the alternator turns off most if the time the engine is running so he will see 12.8v a lot unless he gets a new alt and regulator. Excessive amperage did tell me he could make a 200amp alt for it and provide a regulator for the new alt but pricey like 900-1k iirc

They have like 4 inches of styrofoam under the carpet so they have plenty of room for wires

WARNING do not remove back seats they are the biggest pain in the behind to put back in and it is unnecessary. They have plenty if room in the kick panels to hide modules or excess wire

I did well with an up fire ported box but the typical rear fire box should work great I just had an oddly shaped box that fit up against the seats floor to top. Ground close to the back seats but not under the back seats and use 1inch or less self taps as that is close to the fuel tank. I actually bolted under the spare tire but that created an awkward wire that was too long.

Any questions specifically just ask idk about the in dash install mine was factory integrated with an req5 but I have no prob trying my best to answer any question

Thanks a lot first off. That helps out a lot. Especially with the firewall. That is always the part I hate the most is trying to find a good feedthrough spot. He is going to be running right at 1200watts but that is only at full tilt. Will probably be tuned a bit lower. That helps with the rear seats too, cause I almost always gut a car when doing it and pull all the seats and carpet and all. I will be sure to take a lot of pics with this one and post them up

 

[winkychevelle 10+ year member]

Thanks a lot first off. That helps out a lot. Especially with the firewall. That is always the part I hate the most is trying to find a good feedthrough spot. He is going to be running right at 1200watts but that is only at full tilt. Will probably be tuned a bit lower. That helps with the rear seats too, cause I almost always gut a car when doing it and pull all the seats and carpet and all. I will be sure to take a lot of pics with this one and post them up

The clips that hold the bottom of the rear seats break easy an the back you definitely don't won't to take apart I ran a 1500w amp in my 2011 but my amp didn't really like 12v continuously so I had to use a higher ohm load