2011 Accord Coupe - Rims, Suspension, IDMAX, Silver Flute

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After listening to the tweets after installing them yesterday I have to say I am extremely impressed. They play loud and are very detail oriented, they are very laid back and non fatiguing listening at high volume. I have the Seas crossed over at 4k along with the Silver Flute's. My next xover point is 3.15khz and I don't feel comfortable crossing them (Seas) that low with my first active front stage, I'm still learning a little.
I didn't have time to mess with Time Alignment yesterday but maybe today after work before I go on a motorcycle ride. Looking forward to what some Time Alignment can do to further my listening experience.

Was listening to some MTV Unplugged on the way to work this morning (Thank you Amazon Prime) and I could really tell where the instruments were coming from, but they weren't perfectly defined. If it makes sense I don't think I could be certain to point where they were coming from. TA should help that.
Yeah, let's see how TA makes a difference, hopefully you can get that missing piece. I did notice this kind of thing to be true with the likes of type-R and comparable comps.

 
So tonight I took my first stab at TA, I have to say that I am blown away. I know I didn't probably do a perfect job, but the imaging has moved to up in my dash/front windshield and sound quality has improved significantly. I feel like moving to active speakers, deadening doors and time alignment has made such a significant difference. Then again I haven't been listening to tweeters for the past 2 months and that has probably thrown me off.

I was listening to Eric Clapton and Alice in Chains MTV Unplugged after I did time alignment and it was crazy I could definitely tell a huge difference instruments were easy to place and my sub-bass didnt sound like it was in my trunk anymore. Weird to explain but it just sounded right.

Below is the method I used to set time alignment, I was extremely skeptical at first but I read through all 12 pages and did it. I tried the ones preset in the head unit and they ******. I then measured, a little better I think? Still not a big difference. Used this method, it took a long time (2 hours) to get it done but it sounded so much better.

Precision time alignment using only noise tracks and your ears - Car Audio | DiyMobileAudio.com | Car Stereo Forum

 
Don't forget to use correlated pink noise to set.

it bleeps out "s--ucked" on this forum now? wow.

 
Well, the output and sound quality from the IDMAX has been excellent since replacing with the new HU. Hitting lows and plays everything I can throw at it beautifully, not boomy or anything just tight response throughout. BUUUUUUUT, I found a unplayed, unmounted 05 RE XXX 12" D2 a couple hours away that I'm scooping up. I love those subwoofers so much I could not pass it up. So the IDMAX is for sale and tomorrow I go to pick up the XXX in Daytona. Reason for doing so is because IDMAX was D4, ran at 2ohms. I wanted full potential so the XXX will do that at 1ohm at the amp.

I also got around to finishing deadener on my driver door and ordered a Kinetik HC1400R - REV for my front battery since I'll be pulling a good amount more juice at 1ohm.

XXX, if you look closely you can see no holes in surround by gasket.







The deadener inside shot I wasn't able to get before...



The Kinetik, pretty decent price. Fits in stock location with no modification. 2 year warranty too.



 
Finally installed the XXX 12 today. There was a significant output difference, but after testing with the O-Scope found my box rise was to about 2.8ohms at the sub which is pretty high. So it was only getting around 3-400 watts real power on music. Flexes my windshield like crazy, going to have to deaden roof soon.

After taking these measurements it makes me believe the IDMAX was probably only getting like 150rms to it during music which is why it left me with a desire to put a D2 sub in. Let alone the unplayed 05 XXX. Sounds amazing, it is slightly more boomy and not as tight as with the IDMAX but we will see once the XXX loosens up how it does because the suspension is so stiff since its brand new.



 
dunno how i just saw this lol but pictures don't do this car justice, the quality sound of snappy midbass from those silver flutes is pretty impressive.

I'd definitely give that RE a couple weeks of break in time, if it still doesn't give you the accuracy you're looking for consider a new box designed for that woofer. Adding more power will provide you more dynamic range, so that's something else I'd consider in the long run if you want to get the most you can but it still got pretty **** loud for a few hundred watts lol

on a side note, i found your amp online and it does say that the amp isn't bridgeable, but the end plate shows how to bridge the amp so I'm not sure what hifonics did there..

 
dunno how i just saw this lol but pictures don't do this car justice, the quality sound of snappy midbass from those silver flutes is pretty impressive.
I'd definitely give that RE a couple weeks of break in time, if it still doesn't give you the accuracy you're looking for consider a new box designed for that woofer. Adding more power will provide you more dynamic range, so that's something else I'd consider in the long run if you want to get the most you can but it still got pretty **** loud for a few hundred watts lol

on a side note, i found your amp online and it does say that the amp isn't bridgeable, but the end plate shows how to bridge the amp so I'm not sure what hifonics did there..
Thanks Mitchell, after listening to it extensively today I have found that there is negligible difference if any from the IDMAX and RE after playing the same songs I used to. Maybe it was just because I was jamming out to heavy bass songs the whole way home since I was so excited to have it installed. Also the battery will be here Wednesday, might help a little.

That is really weird it says not bridgeable now, when I purchased the amp and it overheated with bridged components I called Hifonics and the guy said "That is weird, I know its able to be bridged too. You're honestly the first person to ever call in about these amps since they're new. Change blahblahblah and try again if that doesnt work we will send you a replacement." Maybe they found out they made an uh-oh, it definitely tells you how to bridge on the amp written on end caps like you say. Leave it to Hifonics lol.

After using it for a while now and I guess helping them figure out it isnt bridgeable, its still a great amp for the money. 1000rms for sub with 60x4 to speakers with crossover ability up to 4k on amp, lots of potential for $260. Still a Hifonics though I guess

 
Just to keep this updated, I've gotten rid of the Hifonics and bought new FSD Amps for some more power.



 
Just finished a run of 0ga adjacent to the 4ga powering the 85.4 for the FSD1600. Hooked it up last night. Holy cow what a difference it has made. Extension and authority of the notes has brought a new life to the sub. The box is a bit small for it, including the port as I think I'm hearing some port noise but It will do for the time being. It is only noticeable at very low notes. There is no room for the FSD1600 behind the false wall so I am going to have to mount it on the rear side of the false wall and run the wiring through it. Not sure if I'll have to cut through it or not but it's too hot to do now anyways. Once I have a cooler day I'll get around to it and post some photos.

EDIT: I forgot to say that I did the Big 3 upgrade. I have a Kinetik 1400R under the hood. It is dimming a tiny bit on full tilt but my headlights aren't seeing any loss of power only inside lighting. Also before I only used to see 13.5V at my rear amp and am now at ~14-14.2 at idle with AC etc on.

 
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