2010 mustang amps

netzero
10+ year member

USMC
I have a 2010 mustang I would like to put a little system in, but im having a hard time figuring the best way to do it. I want to keep the HU stock and keep it stealth. I'm thinking about just leaving the speakers off the HU, no amp, and just replace them and add a sealed 10 to the trunk.

My main questions would be, how to get a good signal for the sub amp? I think i found the stock amps above the driver side kick panel. Any way to get signal to RCA's and run them to the back? Also, what should be done with the two 8" door subs? Thanks all

2ynh28n.jpg


 
Just get a Line out converter (i'd suggest a "trunk-loc" by pac) and tap into 1 of your rear speaker wires..From there add your rca to the loc and run to amp. Run the remote wire off the loc to the amp. Supply power, and ground to the loc and your set. You could just use the amps pos @ neg.

P.s. The speaker you tap into will still work.

 
Just get a Line out converter (i'd suggest a "trunk-loc" by pac) and tap into 1 of your rear speaker wires..From there add your rca to the loc and run to amp. Run the remote wire off the loc to the amp. Supply power, and ground to the loc and your set. You could just use the amps pos @ neg.
P.s. The speaker you tap into will still work.
The only thing is, the factory HU limits the lower frequencies from the rear speakers, i tried that and i got nothing from the line out converter...

 
Assuming it is the same as my 2006, here is wiring diagram for the connectors on the Shaker 500 amplifiers:

Shaker_amp_wiring.jpg


Only problem, I yanked my Shaker 500 setup out of the car before I had my RTA, so I couldn't tell you if the signal is full range or not.

Edit: Also, be careful when adding subwoofers and trying to keep your existing subwoofers. I ended up with some midbass cancellation in the 80 to 100 Hz range when I tried to do it. The rumor is that the Shaker 500 amplifier phases the subs somewhere between 0 and 180 degrees, but no one could tell me what the exact phasing is.

Edit2: Splice + (Pin 4) and Shield (Pin 2) off of one of these connectors into an RCA and you have your "signal" for a subwoofer.

 
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Gunz, awesome info! I really appreciate it! If I just outright disconnected the subs, and pulled the signal from before the amps, I'd be good to go? The subs would then just be for looks and i could remove the amps?

Also, on the shaker system, the two amps are for the subs correct? The speakers are powered by the HU? I've already ran 4 gauge power to the trunk, just need signal and to replace the speakers and I'll be done...

 
Gunz, awesome info! I really appreciate it! If I just outright disconnected the subs, and pulled the signal from before the amps, I'd be good to go? The subs would then just be for looks and i could remove the amps?
I'd recommend trying it with the 8" door subwoofers first when you add your 10" sub to the trunk. While I didn't like the stock subwoofers, they did pull the stage to the front. I didn't like them because they were high distortion drivers in addition to causing midbass cancellation.

But to answer your question, if you don't want to use them, you could just pull the amps and leave the stock subwoofers there to fill a hole. Or you can do like I did and install some 6.5" midbass drivers there. //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/biggrin.gif.d71a5d36fcbab170f2364c9f2e3946cb.gif

Also, on the shaker system, the two amps are for the subs correct? The speakers are powered by the HU?
Yes, the two amplifiers are for the door subwoofers only. The 5x7/6x8 stock speakers receive their power from the head unit.

I've already ran 4 gauge power to the trunk, just need signal and to replace the speakers and I'll be done...
You will also need a trigger to turn your amplifier in the trunk on. You can't use the one off the Shaker 500 harness because it is a 5 volt output AND I think it is controlled by the CANBUS in the 2010. Well you can use that wire, but you will need a relay to step up your voltage to 12 volts.

If all that is too complicated, just look for a fuse in the fusebox that powers on/off with your vehicle and replace it with a pigtail fuse. Then, run your pigtail fuse to the remote turn on spot on your amplifier. The only issue here is if you listen to your radio for the 10 or so minutes after you turn your vehicle off. You may or may not have your trunk subwoofer on for those 10 minutes.

 
Great, thanks for the info! I found some kicker direct replacements for the door subs, putting those in might help pull the the sound stage forward without the distortion, or just drop them all together lol.

I'm thinking just for my casual use that new speakers powered by the HU will be fine, i just need to pull that signal to a line out converter in the back and I'll be good to go.

The line out converter has a remote line converter that turns on the amp with music starts playing so I might play with that and see how it works before i run a remote from my fuse box. I appreciate it though, just hoping the wires are the same as your mustang...

 
I just thought of something else regarding the stock subs... If you were to use the LOC on the output of the Shaker 500 amps, your signal should be phased the same going to your trunk sub. As a result, you'd technically eliminate the phase cancellation issue and you would have the subwoofer level control from your stock HU.

It looks like you have it sorted out, but I wanted to throw that out there as an option!

 
Thanks, I'll play around with it whenever i get to it! Hopefully this will help any other fellow mustang owners.

One last thing i just remembered, if i take the signal from after, i would treat it as a speaker wire right? If before then would it be low voltage rca? My LOC has an option for both. Thanks

 
Thanks, I'll play around with it whenever i get to it! Hopefully this will help any other fellow mustang owners.
One last thing i just remembered, if i take the signal from after, i would treat it as a speaker wire right? If before then would it be low voltage rca? My LOC has an option for both. Thanks
That would be correct. Using pins 4 and 2 from the 10 pin connector would be low voltage RCA while taking the signal after would be considered speaker level.

I just bypassed the factory amp in my 06 Saleen
I ripped mine apart for the sake of doing it:

Internals.jpg


 
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