2 pairs of front tweeters?

[emilimo701 10+ year member]

What's your current configuration? Generally, adding more drivers is a bad idea if you are looking for quality of sound rather than simply 'loud'. Cancellation & phase issues can really cause havoc with your setup, especially if you don't have a ton of active channels for all of the drivers involved. It's almost always a better idea to fork out the $$$ for a good front set that can really deliver in both volume and clarity rather than trying to keep adding more drivers to the mix. Once again, assuming you want quality of sound rather than 'wow dawg that's loud.'
Most people here want 'wow dawg that's loud.' That's why you see all these setups using 20 drivers sprinkled all over the car, all running passive on 2 channels of amplification with no phase adjustment or time alignment. Don't let that fool you into thinking that's a good idea for quality of sound reproduction. Case in point; 1000w on 2 12's in my setup and my tweets are at -6db...setting them to 0db or +3db would be painful. More speakers adds a huge amount of hassle; you have to fit the new drivers, make sure they phase well and don't cause cancellation, get them amplification and then eq everything. Or you can just buy a better set of tweeters, feed them all the power you WOULD have fed 2 pairs of the crappier set...and not worry about installation and tweaking of 2 pairs.

FWIW, i'd be 10 times more likely to double up on your woofers than on the tweeters; multiple point sources for high frequencies is usually a recipe for disaster when it comes to quality of sound reproduction.

There is no difference between a pro audio speaker and a car audio one in terms of engineering for a car. You can't magically make a tweeter work better in a vehicle. The difference between car audio and pro audio speakers is that in pro audio you actually get what you pay for as things generally arent' marked up 500% to take advantage of stupid teenage kids. Also pro audio speakers will take abuse better and generally get ALOT louder. Anyone not running pro audio speakers in their car if they require high volume levels is an idiot. They can sound very good if implemented properly, just as car audio speakers sometimes can, it's install and tuning dependent. Many of the best SQ cars utilize pro audio drivers. I'd put my fronstage up against any SQ car on this forum, granted their arent many lol. Depth out to the hood, width past pillars and capable of peaks of around 120db's, so concert level volume. If your just dropping into place with no EQ abiltiy then SQ is a crap shoot either way, might as well get something that will be louder. A single set of PA tweeters will be louder than two sets of regular car audio tweets, actually if you add another amp each time you'll need 4 sets of them actually, so 8 tweeters.
Anyway if you want anther option than the seleniums B&C DE35 Neodymium Mylar Bullet Tweeter | Parts-Express.com. These cost a bit more and are probably a little nicer. B&C generally makes very good products. I've used several of their compression drivers and had good results even with their lower end stuff.

guys, maybe you can help me out. my problem is that i want my music louder, but i don't want to sacrifice too much on sound quality. eventually when i get a new car, i might toy with the idea of running multiple sets of components, running actively crossed over speakers, or both. from a money standpoint, would it be silly to run multiple high end component sets in parallel? i'd love to be able to achieve my desired loudness with just one set of comps... i was thinking of getting a set of JBL c608's because for power handling it doesn't get much better than that. And if ~200 watts RMS on those still isn't enough, I guess that would be my answer: needing to run multiple components. But as you guys said, they take a lot of tweaking -- phase alignment, equalization, etc. What would you recommend for a n00b wanting to take on a project like this? Doubling up (putting two sets of components per door), running passive, and putting the tweeters as close to each other as possible could be a solution. Or would you recommend running active nomatter what? And if running active, do people ever have just one tweeter, and two woofers?

 

[emilimo701 10+ year member]

marked up 500% to take advantage of stupid teenage kids

what products are marked up 500%?

 

[BassnTruck 10+ year member]

We used to get a number of people come in wanting that "ting" sound. Install these with 45-80 watts and your ears will bleed. No joke.

Pyramid TW67 - Tweeters - Sonic Electronix

 

[Big Ry 10+ year member]

Well the tweets are set now but can anyone recommend some pro audio woods to compliment these tweets and provide a nice flat response in a 2 way active setup?

 

[Big Ry 10+ year member]

I meant woofers

 

[reclessantics 10+ year member]

I like the idea of easy control like that. Is that AC 3.1 an epicenter too to add bass where needed? I been thinking about getting an epicenter.

yeah it has a bass knob, and sweep, gain ect. i love it because its a real bass knob lol and i can adjust everything easily, say from song to song if i really waant, or if i want to turn up a certain tone, like some guitar or vocals or cymbals, or bass. its the shit

 

[Big Ry 10+ year member]

I am very interested in an epicenter, but unfortunately its just too much money for me right now...maybe in the next 2-3 years when im done grad school //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/frown.gif.a3531fa0534503350665a1e957861287.gif

 

[Big Ry 10+ year member]

Wtf am I supposed to do with these tweeters!!??

I just got em today, they're HUGE!!! There's nowhere to fit em.

 

[BassnTruck 10+ year member]

The specs for these are on every page I looked at.

Specifications: *Power handling: 70 watts RMS/140 watts program (above 5,000 Hz) *Dispersion: 40° H x 40° V *VCdia: 1.75" *Impedance: 8 ohms *Frequency response: 2,000-20,000 Hz *SPL: 105 dB 1W/1m *Magnet weight: 7.72 oz. *Dimensions: 4.88" H x 4.53" W x 2.4" D. *Weight: 1.65 lbs.

You want lots of tweet ya got to pay the price. You can make anything work just need to know how much skill you have to attempt it. Sounds like some custom pods or panels are in your future.

 

[Big Ry 10+ year member]

The specs for these are on every page I looked at.
Specifications: *Power handling: 70 watts RMS/140 watts program (above 5,000 Hz) *Dispersion: 40° H x 40° V *VCdia: 1.75" *Impedance: 8 ohms *Frequency response: 2,000-20,000 Hz *SPL: 105 dB 1W/1m *Magnet weight: 7.72 oz. *Dimensions: 4.88" H x 4.53" W x 2.4" D. *Weight: 1.65 lbs.

You want lots of tweet ya got to pay the price. You can make anything work just need to know how much skill you have to attempt it. Sounds like some custom pods or panels are in your future.

I saw the specs. I figured I could just trim the plastic baffle and deal with the rest. Little did I know the friggin magnet itself is like 4" wide. And the plastic baffle essentially goes all the way back to be flush with the magnet for some odd reason.

I know I could fit these...ive done a custom glass job on my old blazer for a set of comps, but i reeeally didnt want to go chopping up my door panels in my accord, its still in pretty decent shape, so looking relatively stock is kinda important. Kicks are out of the question given the size of these. The drivers side kick has a hood release in the middle of it. And even if I could squeeze them in, I'm almost positive they'd interfere with me shifting. Despite all this, I still considered custom door panels, but on the way home I realized that Id need to invest a good chunk of $$$ for MDF, glass/resin, sandpaper, paint/leather, etc. It basically defeats the purpose of me buying cheap drivers in the first place. I'm thinking I should find some smaller tweets now, either car audio tweets, or reasonably sized PA tweets. I can save these for a bookshelf set or a custom ghetto-rigged tailgate setup for VT football games lol.

Here's the ST200 and what I have to work with in my car in terms of placement...

ST200 with standard credit card sized Giant card for comparison

Stock tweet location in dash. Anyone know what that red thing is? Ive had my car for over 3 years and I still dont know. It lights up in alternating red LEDs when I press the clutch (picture nightrider). Im thinking some aftermarket ricer thing from the previous owner, but I'm not into that scene, so I'm ignorant to the hardware involved.

Driver side

Passenger side

 

[aquafire 10+ year member]

What's your current configuration? Generally, adding more drivers is a bad idea if you are looking for quality of sound rather than simply 'loud'. Cancellation & phase issues can really cause havoc with your setup, especially if you don't have a ton of active channels for all of the drivers involved. It's almost always a better idea to fork out the $$$ for a good front set that can really deliver in both volume and clarity rather than trying to keep adding more drivers to the mix. Once again, assuming you want quality of sound rather than 'wow dawg that's loud.'
Most people here want 'wow dawg that's loud.' That's why you see all these setups using 20 drivers sprinkled all over the car, all running passive on 2 channels of amplification with no phase adjustment or time alignment. Don't let that fool you into thinking that's a good idea for quality of sound reproduction. Case in point; 1000w on 2 12's in my setup and my tweets are at -6db...setting them to 0db or +3db would be painful. More speakers adds a huge amount of hassle; you have to fit the new drivers, make sure they phase well and don't cause cancellation, get them amplification and then eq everything. Or you can just buy a better set of tweeters, feed them all the power you WOULD have fed 2 pairs of the crappier set...and not worry about installation and tweaking of 2 pairs.

FWIW, i'd be 10 times more likely to double up on your woofers than on the tweeters; multiple point sources for high frequencies is usually a recipe for disaster when it comes to quality of sound reproduction.

Thank you for the first sensible reply here!

 

[BassnTruck 10+ year member]

I think you could make a pod next to the mid in the pocket pretty easy that if done right would not have to buy any leather or such.

As for the thing on your dash it is a DEI LED device for an alarm.

 

[Big Ry 10+ year member]

I think you could make a pod next to the mid in the pocket pretty easy that if done right would not have to buy any leather or such.As for the thing on your dash it is a DEI LED device for an alarm.

ah, ok. The car DOES have an alarm, so that makes sense. but why on earth does it only light up when i press the clutch?

as for those pods, i think id still have to hack the panels to get those monsters in there. i dont think i could even throw them in there as is without ANY box lol. also, my big-*** leg is out of the way for the pick. in its natural position it totally blocks the path to the ear unless i were to mount it sortof above the mid.

 

[Papermaker85 5,000+ posts]

you need to keep all your driver as close to each other and on axis as possible.. otherwise your frequency response will simply never be flat.. your going to have peaks and valleys from cancallation.. if you do run 2 sets of tweeters put them in the same location.. seriously its not hard to take a peace of wood make cutouts screw it to the dash and then add one layer of glass to make it blend.. it would take like 4 or 5 hours including the glass.. not to mention its going to sound much better get much louder and save you money..

 

[Big Ry 10+ year member]

you need to keep all your driver as close to each other and on axis as possible.. otherwise your frequency response will simply never be flat.. your going to have peaks and valleys from cancallation.. if you do run 2 sets of tweeters put them in the same location.. seriously its not hard to take a peace of wood make cutouts screw it to the dash and then add one layer of glass to make it blend.. it would take like 4 or 5 hours including the glass.. not to mention its going to sound much better get much louder and save you money..

Thanks, captain obvious. I know this. If you'd read the whole thread, you'd realize that money is a big problem here, not time or skill. The whole double tweeter thing was me being pissed off that day because I heard me one tweeter crackling. I'm still pissed I forked out $350 for those and they didn't even take rated power, let alone come close to being loud. But I know how to do a correct install. The reason everything is mounted stock now is listed in a previous post...as is the reason that I have hacked anything to pieces yet.