2 many X-overs on speakers????

[redciv 10+ year member]

No problem. My mom and stepdad are out of town today so it may not be until tommorrow, Sunday before I get a chance to go by there.

 

[redciv 10+ year member]

Ok Chris I finally was able to get the Multimeter from a co-worker. He did not have the instruction manual but said he might be able to find but it doesn't matter I should be able to work it out. What's next.

 

[chris229 10+ year member]

Ok--- If you have a multi meter you want to set it up to test volts. Do this by connecting the black negitive wire to the COM socket. The face of most of the multi meters has lines on it to show you how to connect of test different things. You want to test voltage and that wil have a V and a ohm sign. put the sector on V for volts and DC [sometime it has a doted line and line combined as a symbol. Write down all your test voltage numbers. run you system aloud as you can get it idling. give youe system breaks so it can recharge the battery after a couple tests. Test the following ---- test the battery posts, clamps. Now use a car body/chassis ground and REtest the battery pole. Keeping the body ground test---- wire just out of the battery clamp, wire just at any fuse block, before the fuse,after, just past the block. Now at the amp THEN across the AMPs terminals.

 

[redciv 10+ year member]

OK Testing done. BTW I started checking the forum for other problems like mine and I couldn't help but notice Majestic_roll in England and his problem. The situation he was describing sounds alot like the problem I am experiencing. Anyway I drove to a parking lot and did the testing. First I could not turn the system up too loud before one of the subs sounded like it was "bottoming out." Really don't understand since the gain on all 4 channels is set low, REALLY LOW. I can't really turn the gain or the system up to far before the music cuts in, cuts out and then finally goes away. BTW, I don't know if this is any help but I noticed that once I plug the RCA plugs into the amp at a time for all for channels, the green power light on the amp starts to glow dimmer and dimmer. And when I plug channels 3-4, sub channels, the light pulsates with the bass, kinda like what other people get with there headlights. And then sometimes the system is on H/U, Eq and then nothing. The green power indicator is not lit. Well enough of that here go the results.

test the battery posts=14.22

clamps=14.22

carbody/chassis ground/battery pole=14.22

wire just out of the battery clamp=14.23

wire just at any fuse block=14.23

at the amp=13.92

across amps terminal=13.75

BTW you will notice that I did not do the test before the fuse, after the fuse and just past the block. When you said any fuse block I used the one under the hood and so I did not know what I would have been probing before, after and just past. Sorry. I hope this helps.

 

[chris229 10+ year member]

them number you posted look fine for the power to the AMP as long you had some music playing. You said in an a post before that your AMP has problems powering up with the car off. I want you to turn the car off and test the remote turn on wire for the AMP. also test resistance on ALL speakers. Disconnect from the AMP before doing this.

 

[redciv 10+ year member]

Thanks. The car was on for this first round of testing. Now exactly how do I test the remote wire and I see on the multimeter there is a symbol for ohms, is this what I would use to test the resistance of the speaker wires? If so how do I also check the resistance of the speaker wires?

 

[chris229 10+ year member]

You check the remote wire by puting the positive on the remote terminal and the negitive on the ground terminal. Yes which to resistance and remove the speaker wire from the amp an check across each speaker. positive to the positive wire and negitive to the negitive wire.

 

[redciv 10+ year member]

OK Chris just so I am understanding you correctly. I am suppose to disconnect the speaker wire from the amp "+" and "-" and then take the test leads on the multimeter and put the red to the positive and the black to the negative. BTW what are all the different settings on the ohm side?

 

[redciv 10+ year member]

OK Chris checked the remote wire with car on and off and the reading was .83

 

[chris229 10+ year member]

Originally posted by redciv OK Chris checked the remote wire with car on and off and the reading was .83

you had the radio on right---not sure if I made that clear that the motor on off test was to be performed with the radio on. If you kept the radio on during this test then we have found the problem

 

[chris229 10+ year member]

Originally posted by redciv OK Chris just so I am understanding you correctly. I am suppose to disconnect the speaker wire from the amp "+" and "-" and then take the test leads on the multimeter and put the red to the positive and the black to the negative. BTW what are all the different settings on the ohm side?

yea your right. The number is for the range wanted. use the smallest number

 

[redciv 10+ year member]

Boy Chris, don't I feel dumb:crazy: I don't know what I was thinking this morning when I tested the remote wire, however I realize when I got to work that the meter was not on the volt but ohms. So I just finish the rest of the test, correct numbers and all, here goes. And thanks for all your help.

Remote wire test:

Motor on=13.35

Motor off=11.33

Speaker resistance

Channel 1 Motor ON=.99

Channel 1 Motor OFF=1.20 to 1.33

Channel 2 Motor ON= (-1.48) to( -1.55)

Channel 2 Motor OFF= (-1.45)

Channel 3 & 4 bridged Motor ON= 1.3 to 2.60

Channel 3 & 4 bridged Motor OFF= 1.89 to 2.06

Sorry for the mistake. Channels 1 & 2 seem strange. These two channels are not bridged. They run the Blaupunkt Separates up front in the kick panels.

 

[chris229 10+ year member]

Originally posted by redciv Boy Chris, don't I feel dumb:crazy: I don't know what I was thinking this morning when I tested the remote wire, however I realize when I got to work that the meter was not on the volt but ohms. So I just finish the rest of the test, correct numbers and all, here goes. And thanks for all your help.

 

Remote wire test:

Motor on=13.35

Motor off=11.33

retest with the radio playing as lod as you can get it with the motor off. I want to see if the 11.33v drops more which it would shut down the amp.

 

Speaker resistance

Channel 1 Motor ON=.99

Channel 1 Motor OFF=1.20 to 1.33

Channel 2 Motor ON= (-1.48) to( -1.55)

Channel 2 Motor OFF= (-1.45)

Channel 3 & 4 bridged Motor ON= 1.3 to 2.60

Channel 3 & 4 bridged Motor OFF= 1.89 to 2.06

first motor on or off shouldn't matter BUT when making these test you have to disconnect the speaker wires from the amp. Did you??? all of these numbers for resistance seem too low. What are the specs on your amp for ohm stablity ? I think the fronts should be 2ohm and the bridged should be no lower then 4ohm. Is that what the spec say. 

Sorry for the mistake. Channels 1 & 2 seem strange. These two channels are not bridged. They run the Blaupunkt Separates up front in the kick panels.

 

[redciv 10+ year member]

Chris the amp is supposed to be stable into 2 ohms on all for channels.

4ohm power is 85W X 4,

2 Ohm power is 120W X 4 or 240W X 2 bridged.

When you say disconnect the speaker wires from the amp what I did was disconnect one channel at a time and then test that particular channel with the other wires connected to the amp. Now this may not have been the way you wanted me to test the resistance, let me know. Also the multimeter settings may have been too low. BTW the noise coming from the separates is a static noise each times the bass hits.

 

[chris229 10+ year member]

Originally posted by redciv Chris the amp is supposed to be stable into 2 ohms on all for channels.

yea but not 2 ohms on a bridged channel. It is most likely 4ohms across a bridged channel. If it was 2ohms across a bridged channel then that would make it a 1ohm stable 4 channel amp which it isn't

When you say disconnect the speaker wires from the amp what I did was disconnect one channel at a time and then test that particular channel with the other wires connected to the amp.

yea as long both the positive and neg speakers wires were disconnected from the AMP when testing it's fine. the range is fine but the numbers say channel one has 1ohm, channel 2 has 1.5ohms and the subs are a 2ohm load. That is straining that amp hard.