(2) 3512 DD subs dB hit?

Could be tons of things that can cause this

-major voltage drops

-amp gains not set fully/correctly

-shitty box

and you hit a 138 at the dash? headrest? sealed up?

was it on a song or test tones?

 
so it would be better for him to ride around w/o the cap than to have it?
yes, the cap is only good(mabie) for the first tenth of a second of a bass hit.

a battery can supply a constant current to the amp where the cap can not.

about the only thing a cap is good for is....

well it can filter out noise that may be coming through the power cables but that is it.

 
Yeah who put it in it would have to be examined by someone who knows what to do to get you up into the 148 range which would feel like 30 times louder. You should do that. Electrical is needed, at least a batt or an alt

 
Why don't y'all try recommending less expensive fixes first - i.e. remove the rear deck speakers.

And if he already bought a cap, he might as well keep it. They're not nearly as bad as many of you make them out to be, and they are certainly not detrimental.

 
Why don't y'all try recommending less expensive fixes first - i.e. remove the rear deck speakers.
And if he already bought a cap, he might as well keep it. They're not nearly as bad as many of you make them out to be, and they are certainly not detrimental.
and this will help how?

 
Why don't y'all try recommending less expensive fixes first - i.e. remove the rear deck speakers.
And if he already bought a cap, he might as well keep it. They're not nearly as bad as many of you make them out to be, and they are certainly not detrimental.
if you play your music loud for any length of time, yes the become a problem.

they can only supply current in an instant burst and not over a length of time.

after the first loud bass hit, it just becomes a draw on the electrical system and will not help anything untill its is allowed to charge it self back up.

all a cap will do is just pass current during long, loud sessions with out boosting or adding any extra current.

just doing the big 3 will give 3x the instant current and allow more current over a longer time than any cap could ever come close to doing.

adding a small battery, say like a stinger spv35 or the likes would be the better idea and that battery cost about as much as a name brand cap.

the cheapest would be to loose the cap and run the big 3 now.

in my system, iam running a stock 100a alt, 2 red top batteries and have the big 3 using just 4ga wire and i have near 0 light dimming and my voltage NEVER drops below 13.2v. this is running a fusion nvam250001 at .5 ohms and a fosgate 500s4ch bridged to 2ch and running at 2 ohms. its not the biggest and loudest but it can and dose draw a shit load of current but i have no issues.

 
Why don't y'all try recommending less expensive fixes first - i.e. remove the rear deck speakers.
And if he already bought a cap, he might as well keep it. They're not nearly as bad as many of you make them out to be, and they are certainly not detrimental.
yep i agree big three is an inexpensive upgrade buy or barow a cheep multi meter or volt meter and see what your geting at the amps one xtra volt makes a ton of DBs
 
i hit 138.6 with a rap song, on the front windshield.
its the box, get a real design done by some one rebuild and go. im hitting a 145.3 with one 12" subwoofer in a trunked car just like you off of 1800wrms. its the box trust me.

and removing the rear speaker wil help the subs "breath" into the cabin, allows more air to go from trunk to cabin.

PM me with your max dims and ill design you a box.

PS: ill forget about this post so a message would be best. lol

 
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