17v output..wtf?

ajm
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Today I redid the big 3 with some 1/0 knukonceptz. Once done tested connections using the dmm and truck running. It showed I was getting 18-19v. A few days ago I was checking the voltage at the amp with the engine not running and it read 17v. I didnt think much of it as my dmm can be odd sometimes. So today after getting 18-19v while engine running I killed it and checked the power at the amp....17v //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/eyebrow.gif.fe2c18d8720fe8c7eaed347b21ea05a5.gif.

Anyone have an idea as to what is up. The alternator is only about two weeks old but being that I still get 17v when the engine is not running doesnt it seem like a battery problem or both?

And worst of all my lights still dim like crazy //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/frown.gif.a3531fa0534503350665a1e957861287.gif.

 
i think you should check with another dmm to make sure yours isnt being wierd

if your whole car was getting 18-19V odds are you would have fried some things by now.

if you really are getting that power out of you alternator you need to do something about it as soon as you can.

that is too much power for most things on a car.

~Magick_Man~

 
i think you should check with another dmm to make sure yours isnt being wierdif your whole car was getting 18-19V odds are you would have fried some things by now.
Thats what I was thinking. Maybe ill stop by walmart or somewhere and pick up a cheap one tomorrow. Or see how it test on other things that I know are putting out __ volts.

 
Truns out my dmm is off by 5v for whatever reason. I just went outside and tested the truck at the amp. It read 17.5. Came inside and tested the 12v rail on the computers psu. Its reading 17.34 so I guess its time to go shopping or try to replace the battery in this thing.

 
Truns out my dmm is off by 5v for whatever reason. I just went outside and tested the truck at the amp. It read 17.5. Came inside and tested the 12v rail on the computers psu. Its reading 17.34 so I guess its time to go shopping or try to replace the battery in this thing.
my old DMM said my car was running at 50-60 volts DC

 
Fluke or Ideal but they are both a little pricey. You really need to look at the accuracy of the meter. Some of the cheaper meters can have a 7% + or - accuracy rating. That can equate to a .9 difference in volts but it's still a difference when your trying to see if your batteries are sitting at 12.7.

 
touch the leads together and see if there's a number. If there is, subtract that number from your readings then go look for a CALIBRATED DMM.

My ohms are off by .3 and that SUCKS when you run .35 and lower systems.//content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/crap.gif.7f4dd41e3e9b23fbd170a1ee6f65cecc.gif

 
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