17.5 sq in port per cube to much? trying to get design to builder so he can do it.

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What are the max dimensions you have to work with? And what kind of vehicle is it going in?
04 grand prix.. i'm trying to stay 34-35" wide 16d 14.5h (to make sure it's easy to get it in) i can just do the exact box in that diagram and i'm sure i'd be happy (especially for the fi cause that is a dcon box, which a alpha is a dcon with a 3" coil) fi don't need huge box cause only has small spider high mms and i'm over powering a tad.. the fu is heavier bigger motor more that twice the bl and if i just make that box 2-3" wider it be great but it has higher air velocity even at same power i guess because of motor.. just did design with 35x16x14.5h 2.75x13x30" port 2.35 after everything., should work as long as box isn't too big which i doubt, was just thinking of staying closer to 2.2cf if i go with sub that has weaker spider..

 
If you go 29 wide 14.5 high and 16.75 deep that gets you 2.3cf tuned to 35hz with a 6 inch aeroport, sub back port to the side. Just sayin //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/wink.gif.608e3ea05f1a9f98611af0861652f8fb.gif

 
If you go 29 wide 14.5 high and 16.75 deep that gets you 2.3cf tuned to 35hz with a 6 inch aeroport, sub back port to the side. Just sayin //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/wink.gif.608e3ea05f1a9f98611af0861652f8fb.gif
thanks. yeah i checked 6" port dimensions when u mentioned it.. im trying to use the width instead of more depth, and idk if side port will work or not in my car, never tried it i know sub and port back work.. round side port sure would be easier to do though...

 
u mean even on slot port? cause i can do 14.65 or 15.6 sq in per cf slot all of the boxes will be 20% bigger than the recommend but everyone usually says to make them bigger on heavier subs anyway.. my neighbor makes a nice box, very skilled. just don't know nothing about stereos so i have to give him exact everything.. here's 1 he made, actually belongs to another guy here..
Not sure what you're not getting. Round is the optimum shape for ports period, and for your application you can not have too much port area. Figure out how much port you can fit in your space and go with it.

Likely a good 6" fluted port will cost as much as you planned to spend on the whole project or more and as you say will limit your options of where to put it. While I wouldn't rule out side firing the port (it usually works well provided you're not crowding it too close to the side of the trunk) if you want to stick with everything on the same side it will be impractical.

 
Slot ports are more than adequate, and in a build where you are really pinching pennies, there is no reason to go aero. A 6" aero shipped is around 40$; instantly doubling your material cost. I have 4", 6", 8", 10" aeros because i do a ton of spl testing, but every time i look at my stack of aeros.... i get mad at the cost. Lol

 
Slot ports are more than adequate, and in a build where you are really pinching pennies, there is no reason to go aero. A 6" aero shipped is around 40$; instantly doubling your material cost. I have 4", 6", 8", 10" aeros because i do a ton of spl testing, but every time i look at my stack of aeros.... i get mad at the cost. Lol
yeah I mean I swear I think peeps only used them to save space (like 63bug) or for comps or in cheap kicker or ct sounds boxes lol.. didn't know they were better., 1 guy here actually said couple months ago slot better than round or I would've at least considered it, round more $ yeah but lots easier..

 
Not sure what you're not getting. Round is the optimum shape for ports period, and for your application you can not have too much port area. Figure out how much port you can fit in your space and go with it.
Likely a good 6" fluted port will cost as much as you planned to spend on the whole project or more and as you say will limit your options of where to put it. While I wouldn't rule out side firing the port (it usually works well provided you're not crowding it too close to the side of the trunk) if you want to stick with everything on the same side it will be impractical.
i was asking because the others just said don't do big port..

 
i ended up going with the ssa diagram (on last page) with double baffle and some bracing comes to 2.1 cf ad with 32.5 sq in port that's 15.4 sq in per cf.. so hope it's not to big, shouldn't be to small anyway just hope i don't wish i made it .25 cf bigger... just dropped envelop off at his house maybe he'll look at it and call me later.. either way it'll be a lot nicer than what i have, double baffle rounded corners, 30% more air space and 77% bigger port..

 
Slot ports are more than adequate, and in a build where you are really pinching pennies, there is no reason to go aero. A 6" aero shipped is around 40$; instantly doubling your material cost. I have 4", 6", 8", 10" aeros because i do a ton of spl testing, but every time i look at my stack of aeros.... i get mad at the cost. Lol

A 6 inch 2ft piece of sch 35 at Home Depot is about $9, all you need is a metal bowl and heat gun to add a flare or just round off the hard edges inside and leave it straight. Pvc ports are great for budget builds. As long as there isn't a hard edge and you have adequate port area there won't be port noise. IMO flared ports only pay off when you are chasing those extra tenths.

 
A 6 inch 2ft piece of sch 35 at Home Depot is about $9, all you need is a metal bowl and heat gun to add a flare or just round off the hard edges inside and leave it straight. Pvc ports are great for budget builds. As long as there isn't a hard edge and you have adequate port area there won't be port noise. IMO flared ports only pay off when you are chasing those extra tenths.
i saw video where guy used bowl to flare port., thought that was genius (i had to check spelling on that word sooooo)

 
A 6 inch 2ft piece of sch 35 at Home Depot is about $9, all you need is a metal bowl and heat gun to add a flare or just round off the hard edges inside and leave it straight. Pvc ports are great for budget builds. As long as there isn't a hard edge and you have adequate port area there won't be port noise. IMO flared ports only pay off when you are chasing those extra tenths.
Totally agree.. i made a 10" last week

But you have no clue who started this thread lol

 
got the design to neighbor he said be a while b4 he gets to it (like i said he has like 3 jobs) but he'll call me before he starts so i can change it around some (1" longer box 2" shorter port or whatever) if i need to or if i have a sub coming and can do a box targeted for that sub, but it wont change much..

 
Slot ports are more than adequate, and in a build where you are really pinching pennies, there is no reason to go aero. A 6" aero shipped is around 40$; instantly doubling your material cost. I have 4", 6", 8", 10" aeros because i do a ton of spl testing, but every time i look at my stack of aeros.... i get mad at the cost. Lol
i still don't know if i should do 2.2cf ad with 32.5 sq in port or 2.33 ad with 39sq in port for the fu because it has higher port air vel than fi and most of the point in custom box i thought was more port area but jeff said keep it small 2.5" prefabs have that on what would be 1.8cf for a fu sub which is like 18sq in port per cube.. also the fu looks like it plays deeper then just dies off past 45hz., the FI showing better curve (higher in 50-60hz range anyway) with smaller box and port air not a problem with it i guess because of lower bl maybe.. here's models

 
I dont mind bottom heavy boxes, often i purposely design my daily boxes like that.... but its definately an acquired sound. Basically, its great for rap.

Depends what your goals are

 
I dont mind bottom heavy boxes, often i purposely design my daily boxes like that.... but its definately an acquired sound. Basically, its great for rap.
Depends what your goals are
well i play some rock., i don't wanta just have bass on my techno/rebassed music..

 
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