12w6 vs 13w6

The Jl wasn't "designed" to ouperform 2 sub setups, it was ment to get louder then any other sub they make, since it's their flagship, along with every other company that makes a top of the line sub that will outperform 2 of its little brothers. I don't know what you mean by jl "approved" boxes, u mean the HO and prowedge boxes? Because fitting a box for 2 W7's in a normal persons trunk is impractical, they need a lot of space to breathe. A box for 2 13w7's would be 4.5 cu.ft+ most trunkcs don't allow for it.
hmmm... well if the company that manufactures the sub doesn't design a box for 2 subs... and if you had a box for 2 subs its impracticaly huge... and if it's louder by itself than most 2 sub setups... and it was designed for SQ with volume as a side benefit... and it has the capabillity of destroying your hearing... kinda sounds like it was designed to be a single sub layout... meaning people that have more than one (actually more than 2) of them are takeing advantage of their capabilities for spl, creating a setup that no one in their right mind would be comforatable listening to every day

 
Most of the setups on this forum are way louder than a person in their right mind would listen to daily at full tilt. That is why there are these things called a volume control and a sub level control. Give you the option of turning it down...

And just because the company doesn't make boxes for multiples of the sub doesn't meant that it was a replacement for 2 or more subs. If you look at the specs on the Slash amps they are rated for a min impedance of 1.5 ohms and the W7 series (which came out right about the same time) are all 3 ohm subs. Looks like the amps were made for a pair...

As far as box size, I have a very small car with a very small trunk and were I so inclined I could fit a pair of 13W7s in it. It wouldn't be all that hard either. The only challenge would be picking the box with the subs in it to put it in the trunk or mounting the subs with the box already in place.

Quit with the double posting already!

 
Most of the setups on this forum are way louder than a person in their right mind would listen to daily at full tilt. That is why there are these things called a volume control and a sub level control. Give you the option of turning it down...
if your not going for spl get a lesser sub save half of the money and still get something you will like to listen to

And just because the company doesn't make boxes for multiples of the sub doesn't meant that it was a replacement for 2 or more subs. If you look at the specs on the Slash amps they are rated for a min impedance of 1.5 ohms and the W7 series (which came out right about the same time) are all 3 ohm subs. Looks like the amps were made for a pair...
lj amps run the same power from 1.5 to 4 ohms... because it is designed to acomadate all of jl's subs yes it will power 2 10's or 8's nicely and you'd probably like the sound alot but the twelve can handle 1500 watts before warantty void and the 13 can handle 2000... either one of these subs at this power level would be louder than most 2 sub setups of the same size... but the 1000/1 can't push that much... i've heard of someone getting 1600 out of one... i'vbut the most i've seen one push is 1300 (at 14v) so if you have only one amp powering 2 12's or 13's, you are not giving it the power it was designed to handle... so add another amp... on a stock electrical system you'll get volt drops so bad your lights will **** near go off...

As far as box size, I have a very small car with a very small trunk and were I so inclined I could fit a pair of 13W7s in it. It wouldn't be all that hard either. The only challenge would be picking the box with the subs in it to put it in the trunk or mounting the subs with the box already in place.
well thats about 4 cubes minimum for a sealed... 5 for ported so even if you fit it theres not going to be a whole lot of air for it to use and with a 3 inch excursion and 133 square inches it moves alot of air... plus if you want to get away with one amp you'd have to build a ported box... if you did the smaller sealed you would need more power for the same volume
 
According to JL, the 13w6v2 has 89% more surface area than the 12" w6v2. I see this all the time in the ads in CA&E.
not 89% more surface area... it moves 89% more air yup thats almost double and it moves almost 4x the air of a 10 thats why i have 4 10's and a 15 its actually more kinda between a 2 and 3 13 setup except its more dynamicly capable... some people would love to argue that, but ears don't lie:rolleyes:

 
if your not going for spl get a lesser sub save half of the money and still get something you will like to listen to
Do you not understand the concept of a high excursion SQ sub? If the sub only needs to use 25% of it's total excursion to get the desired level of output, the output will be cleaner from a distortion standpoint.
lj amps run the same power from 1.5 to 4 ohms... because it is designed to acomadate all of jl's subs yes it will power 2 10's or 8's nicely and you'd probably like the sound alot but the twelve can handle 1500 watts before warantty void and the 13 can handle 2000...
Huge difference between "can handle" and "needs."
either one of these subs at this power level would be louder than most 2 sub setups of the same size... but the 1000/1 can't push that much... i've heard of someone getting 1600 out of one... i'vbut the most i've seen one push is 1300 (at 14v) so if you have only one amp powering 2 12's or 13's, you are not giving it the power it was designed to handle... so add another amp... on a stock electrical system you'll get volt drops so bad your lights will **** near go off...
If you are running a large system on stock electrics, you get what have coming. W7s are't super efficient subs but they still don't "need" thousands of watts to sound good. I would also take issue with the idea that a W7 will be louder than 2 12s or 15s on the same power. There are subs out there that will bend the W7s over in the SPL arena. They're just not the all out SPL machines that you seem to think that they are. They are SQ subs that can get loudish but the design centered on low distortion sub bass. The excursion and power handling were by products of that desin emphasis.

well thats about 4 cubes minimum for a sealed...
If I were to run them sealed, it would probably be in an IB setup.
5 for ported so even if you fit it theres not going to be a whole lot of air for it to use and with a 3 inch excursion and 133 square inches it moves alot of air...
If the install is worth a ****, and if I was going to drop a pair of these things into my car, you had better believe that it would be, the rear deck would be heavily relieved to allow the subs to work the cabin. Who cares how much space is left in the trunk.
plus if you want to get away with one amp you'd have to build a ported box... if you did the smaller sealed you would need more power for the same volume
You would only need more power for the same volume in the extreme lows. With an IB setup, a single 1000/1 should be plenty. It's an SQ sub, remember. 2 on a 1000/1 should be more than enough low end for me.

 
Do you not understand the concept of a high excursion SQ sub?
well aware do you know?
if the sub only needs to use 25% of it's total excursion to get the desired level of output, the output will be cleaner from a distortion standpoint.
why on earth would he want to run a sub on 25% of its power when the w6 can be run on 75% power and sound close to the same for half the price... also running a w7 on 25% of its power capablity doesn't sound good... got a freind who has 3 w7's with 3 1000/1's and the gains are all set to 1/8th... he thinks the same thing you do... sept his system sounds like shit, everyone thinks so... the W7's were NOT ment to not use the majority of the excursion capability... i understand mabe not using 25 or 30% but 40% and your robbing yourself...

Huge difference between "can handle" and "needs."If you are running a large system on stock electrics, you get what have coming. W7s are't super efficient subs but they still don't "need" thousands of watts to sound good. I would also take issue with the idea that a W7 will be louder than 2 12s or 15s on the same power.
there is a reason the sub is able to take so much power... and the sound quality is not compromised by turning it WAY up... infact it getts better... the acuraccy of the frequency get's better with the more power you put to it... a speaker is an induction coil... an induction coil resists changes in the frequency being sent through it... the less power sent through the coil the harder it is to change the current or change the frequency of output so the more power you send through the coil the quicker and more accurate the bass is (better sq) in fact some songs will have base lines in which the frequency alternates extremely rapidly to make to frequencies sound like 1 kind of like a chord... these sound like shit when you are under-powering your subs

There are subs out there that will bend the W7s over in the SPL arena. They're just not the all out SPL machines that you seem to think that they are.
a 10w7 putting out 150 db's in a bandpass box says otherwise
They are SQ subs that can get loudish but the design centered on low distortion sub bass.
(at high levels)

The excursion and power handling were by products of that desin emphasis.
thank good

If I were to run them sealed, it would probably be in an IB setup. If the install is worth a ****, and if I was going to drop a pair of these things into my car, you had better believe that it would be, the rear deck would be heavily relieved to allow the subs to work the cabin. Who cares how much space is left in the trunk.You would only need more power for the same volume in the extreme lows. With an IB setup, a single 1000/1 should be plenty.
are you serious? a ib setup? yeah he's lookin to save 90 bucks and he's gunna invest in sealing his trunk and cuttin a hole in his wall

It's an SQ sub, remember. 2 on a 1000/1 should be more than enough low end for me.
well if ya think so your standards aren't too high
 
Look dude, you're tying to impose your values on me. I know what I like. I don't need a ton of output. In fact a single 10W7 on a 500/1 would probably be enough output for me.

If you understood some basics of psychoacoustics, you would know that louder sounds subjectively better to the vast majority of people. That doesn't mean that its more accurate at higher volume just that mentally the louder setup is typically preferred. This is the basic reason that most people say that certain speakers "come alive" or "open up" when you put a ton of power to them.

The typical complaint about the sound of the W7 is that it sounds "fat" and lacks "snap." The attribute of a sub setup that gives a system those two traits are distortion and exaggerated upper bass response. The W7 well installed exhibits neither and also has the capability to produce a lot of really low freq energy.

An IB install is going to achieve two things. One it will provide the flattest response and best damping. Two the relatively large enclosure size is going to help the sub in the efficiency department.

I fully understand the idea of a high excursion SQ driver. The extra excursion with a flattened Bl curve is to keep the distortion low. The extra excursion is to keep the suspension in the linear range further reducing distortion at higher output levels than a normal sub can manage with the same distortion level. That doesn't mean that all the suspension travel is meant to be used in an SQ application. It would seem to me that you consider sound quantity part of the sound quality. I don't. I don't consider unused excursion capability as wasted, I see it as a margin of headroom in the distortion department.

150dB from a 10 is not amazing. Good but not amazing. If you're dropping money on a W7 as an SPL dirver, be prepared to lose at a serious comp.

 
aight this is it i'm gunna try to explain this to you one more time then you can figure it out yourself.... i'm not saying that you don't know what sound quality is because you like your music too quiet... i'm saying that there is a threshold for when decreasing the power compromises sound quality... you can't agrue with physics in that a voice coil becomes less accurate at lower power levels becuse the speaker has resistance to the current in it changeing that must be overcome as much as possible in order to get accurate reproductions of the waveform input.

as frequency responce decreases there are less sharp responces and the waveform looks curvier... this will actually "sound" better to you to a certain extent... the reason for this is because the sound you hear is your ear drum vibrating at the same frequncies as the sound wave hitting it... the quicker this wave the quicker your eardrum vibrates and it gets to a point where the stress on the eardrum causes physical pain and eventually tearing of the eardrrum... this account for the reason 120 decibles is excruciateing at 20khz but desireable at 20hz.... but that is beside the point... a jl 13w7 is not purly an SQ speaker, it is commonly described as an SQL speaker because to reach the SQ it was designed for requires alot of power resulting in a VERY loud but acurate output there is a fine line to where less power means less quality and more power means less length of speaker life... this "magic number" for the 13 is 1000 watts, allthough most preffer to give it more than this... don't fool yourself into thinking Jl doesn't test their own products before slapping those specifications on them... my suggestion is if 500 watts on a 13 or a 12 is more than loud enough for you...don't be stupid you're not getting better quality with the bigger sub by underpowering it, get the 10 or 8 or a lesser series. fact is that the w7's are not ment to only be an SQ speaker, infact they require alot of output for them to reach their peak frequency responce if you don't believe me take a look at the W7's technowledgies on the website... you'll never find anything that mentions SQ being the focus of the design in a w7... what you WILL find alot is that they were designed to have extremely high SQ at extremely high SPL

EDIT: 500/1 on a 10w6 IS A-OK but this forum was the difference between the 12 and 13 so he's not lookin for only sq

 
Ah, the incompetant rambling of cotjones. //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/ban.gif.ce8465566702ef9f72e97e794ed1c86a.gif

Honestly dude, pick a point and stick to it. So far you've tried to argue several different angles

-W7 is louder than 2 other subs of the same size

-W7 was made as an SPL sub

-W7 should only be installed as a single sub

-Back to OPs original question

I may have missed something there, but I'm sure you'll double-post a long, rambling paragraph that is devoid of punctuation and grammatical accuracy to inform me of my oversights.

 
i'm saying that there is a threshold for when decreasing the power compromises sound quality... you can't agrue with physics in that a voice coil becomes less accurate at lower power levels becuse the speaker has resistance to the current in it changeing that must be overcome as much as possible in order to get accurate reproductions of the waveform input.
This whole statement is flat out wrong. A driver is most accurate with the least amount of movement. Period. The motor is in it's most powerful and linear region. The suspension is providing the most damping. Distortion is at its lowest. Also with only a small amount of power applied, the coils don't heat to the point that thermal power compression has a noticable effect. The only compromise made in using a small amount of power is output in dB. The sonic accuracy will be the best that the speaker can give you, but it might not be loud enough to be useable in a given application. If you were to actually look at how much power is really applied to a speaker during music playback you would find that it is MUCH lower than the rated RMS output of the amp driving it. This is because of the nature of recording and the transient nature of music in general. During normal listening you might have some transient spikes in power applied up to the power rating of the amp, but with only a few exceptions, these transients will be few and far between.
but that is beside the point...
Yes, completely.
a jl 13w7 is not purly an SQ speaker, it is commonly described as an SQL speaker because to reach the SQ it was designed for requires alot of power resulting in a VERY loud but acurate output there is a fine line to where less power means less quality and more power means less length of speaker life
Again totally wrong. The W7 series was designed as an all out SQ driver that is capable of providing reference level sub bass without compromising sound quality. This was achieved by lowering max Bl but broadening the Bl curve so the motor is linear through a longer stroke. The XBL^2 technology emeployed by the older XXX and some of the Adire subs worked on a similar concept but got there a different way. Because of the reduced strength of the motor at the center point (relative to a conventional design) the efficiency of the sub went down. To allow the sub to achieve reference levels of output with a reduced motor strength, the coil had to be made to handle increased power. This power handling is not a feature in and of itself like it would be for an all out SPL sub, it is one of the compromises of the flat BL design.
... this "magic number" for the 13 is 1000 watts, allthough most preffer to give it more than this... don't fool yourself into thinking Jl doesn't test their own products before slapping those specifications on them...
If you actuall kne whow to read JLs recommendations, they actually state that 500W is adequate for a 13W7. The minimum power recommended is based on achieving acceptable output levels and has nothing to do with accuracy of response. If you knew anything about loudspeaker physics, this would be very obvious to you.
my suggestion is if 500 watts on a 13 or a 12 is more than loud enough for you...don't be stupid you're not getting better quality with the bigger sub by underpowering it, get the 10 or 8 or a lesser series.
Once again you have no concept of what you're saying. The accuracy of a sub (or any speaker for that matter) is greatest at the center point of its stroke, its rest position. The W7 is designed such that the accuracy doesn't decrease much as you move away from the center (especially compared to a conventional design), but it still does decrease. By using less power you keep the driver closest to the center point during actual use. By doing this with a larger driver, you get back some efficiency and thus some output while keeping the driver as linear as possible. If you don't believe me on this, take a 13W7 and a 10W7 and put them in boxes of the same alignment. Apply the same power to each and tell me which has more output. Also tell me which has the lowest measured distortion.
fact is that the w7's are not ment to only be an SQ speaker, infact they require alot of output for them to reach their peak frequency responce
The highlighted portion is patently false.
if you don't believe me take a look at the W7's technowledgies on the website... you'll never find anything that mentions SQ being the focus of the design in a w7... what you WILL find alot is that they were designed to have extremely high SQ at extremely high SPL
Wow, because they don't explicitly state that "this is a pure sound quality driver" even though they do state that the sub is designed to provide the lowest distortion of any driver that they make (sounds like a no compromise SQ driver to me...) you decide that you can state that the driver is not meant for SQ but rather for the made up term SQL. The bottom line which you fail to see is that the sub is a meant to provide the most accurate sub-bass of any driver around. The key design feature behind this was a broad and flat Bl curve and a very high excursion suspension. The combination of those two things means that the sub can travel a lot befor it becomes nonlinear ot a significant degree. That doesn't mean that it was designed to play really loud in and of itself. One of the key bits of reality that you seem to be deficient on is that the W7 is a SUB woofer, not a woofer. The important thing about the difference is the frequency range for which the driver is optimized. In order to produce the same level of output one octave lower, a sub has to move four times as far. You will also get more excursion at lower frequencies with the same amount of power. Therefore if you are using the SUB as it was intended, the higher excursion is to get more output at subbass freqs rather than extra output in the range that should be covered by the mid-woofers in an SQ system. Getting a lot of output in the upper bass range takes a lot of power, if that's how you roll, good for you, but in-car you really don't need a ton of power to get awesome sub-bass in a critically damped enclosure with a high excursion sub, even one that is touted as being really inefficient.
There you are assuming again. If you look a lot of the high level SQ competition cars, they have really big subs. Why? Becuase big subs can provide usable output at really low freqs with minimal cone excursion. Why is that important? As stated above, contrary to what you think, a driver is most linear when the cone is closest to the center of the motor and suspension curve. Keep a driver from approaching its excursion limits and you get more linear output.
 
I wish cotjones would put down CA&E and try to absorb some of the useful info on this site. helotaxi is one of the most knowledgeable people on this forum, with 10x the experience you have, and you're trying to prove him wrong using a bunch of acoustic terms you really don't know the meaning of. Just please, shut up, and read, and learn. If one or two people disagreed with you, then go ahead, you may be right. However, when the entire forum argues against your statements, pull your head out of your *** and realize that you may have a thing or two to learn.

I'm not going to argue back with you; I learned my lesson in your thread about different sub sizes in the same install that you are far to dense to learn anything outside of those JL blinders you're wearing. Thus, save your ramblings and incoherent speech for someone else.

 
I wish cotjones would put down CA&E and try to absorb some of the useful info on this site. helotaxi is one of the most knowledgeable people on this forum, with 10x the experience you have, and you're trying to prove him wrong using a bunch of acoustic terms you really don't know the meaning of. Just please, shut up, and read, and learn. If one or two people disagreed with you, then go ahead, you may be right. However, when the entire forum argues against your statements, pull your head out of your *** and realize that you may have a thing or two to learn.
I'm not going to argue back with you; I learned my lesson in your thread about different sub sizes in the same install that you are far to dense to learn anything outside of those JL blinders you're wearing. Thus, save your ramblings and incoherent speech for someone else.
Couldn't have said it much better myself, Mal

 
How they sound ported is going to depend entrirely on the enclosure. Put them in a peaky box tuned too high and yes they will not sound their best but they will get loud. Put them in a properly aligned ported box and they should sound no different than in the selaed box except louder from the Ftc of the sealed setup to the F3 of the ported one. The problem with the JL spec box is that it is tuned too high and has a 3.5 dB peak around 50Hz. Makes for loud, but also way over emphasizes the upper bass range. Power handling isn't an issue with either box until you get into the low 20's freq wise. With music, not an issue at all.
Put that sub in a bigger lower tuned box and it will flat walk all over the sealed box in output in the sub bass range and should be fairly indistiguishable SQ wise. We are talking a 5 cf box though.
You or completely right!!, you gotta be very careful wat ported box u use with the w6 I have my 12w6v2 in a 2.0 cu ft @ 31 hz and to me it still over emphasizes the highs and the lows are not as good as i thought. I solve this problem of peaky high end responce by using a lower crossover setting 45 - 50 @ 24db slope its golden now and still loud as hell.

 
Activity
No one is currently typing a reply...
Old Thread: Please note, there have been no replies in this thread for over 3 years!
Content in this thread may no longer be relevant.
Perhaps it would be better to start a new thread instead.

About this thread

RandyJ

10+ year member
CarAudio.com Veteran
Thread starter
RandyJ
Joined
Location
USA
Start date
Participants
Who Replied
Replies
92
Views
15,480
Last reply date
Last reply from
squeak9798
IMG_20260516_193114554_HDR.jpg

sherbanater

    May 16, 2026
  • 0
  • 0
IMG_20260516_192955471_HDR.jpg

sherbanater

    May 16, 2026
  • 0
  • 0

New threads

Top